I gave it full throttle on my little test drive, in 2wd and 4high. Everything felt normal to me, but I'm used to punching my 3/4 GMC gasser at work with 800# in the bed and towing a boat w/ galvanized trailer.

When you say "hard acceleration", what do you mean exactly. hard to push the pedal? Rough acceleration? Hesitation?

Thanks again for the help.

 

Just got an email from the sales rep:

"The coolant leak is very minor according to the tech (Tim ***). Fixing it would require two hoses and a tube. Part and labor would be around $600.00. They checked the air filter. It is fine and they reset the sysytem. All TSBs have been taken care of according to Dan *** our service advisor. Tim said to check your coolant level every two weeks or so.

The service guys leave at 5:00p.m. Sounds like you really did your home work on this model truck. I suggest you come in around 4:30 pm."

(thanks to you guys )

So what should I be asking the tech? I'll print off the TSB about the coolant hose leaks. I can change the hoses myself, just wondering if the "tube" is the one coming from the thermostat housing...and requiring a body lift to change?

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and the truck comes with a SCT TSX module which the manual says only works if you have DPF delete installed. I'll check the exhaust to see what that looks like. The Tuner was off the truck and in the console...so I wonder if it was returned to stock? I was not aware these trucks could run dpf-deleted without the tuner? This is another new-to-me area.

 

Coolant hoses do not need a cab off to repair. What tube this is I do not know. New hoses come with a double 0-ring and are white on the ends.

So what hose is probably the upper one. Take a flashlight so you can see where it is needed.

Oh btw you cannot over maintain a vehicle. Weekly fluid checks are required and pop the hood at fuel stops for a quick visual will catch anything.

 

I'll take my trusty maglight...I can change the hoses for sure if they are wanting to jack the truck price up to MSRP if they fix it. My brother went to mechanic school, but never found a full time job around here, so he does hardscaping for more money now. Anyway, he has a full mechanics set except the computer code things, and we have a space to work. I'm just curious what the "tube" is. Also, if I keep the coolant level up, will this lessen the chance of cavitation until I can get the parts? I will flush the whole thing at that time too.

I normally do all my vehicles oil/filters, and most repairs. My "smart" phone even has an app that I keep records with and it reminds me of upcoming services based on mileage and dates; all of which can be custom set.

So, do you guys think I should pull the trigger if everything seems to be completed as stated and the leaks are in the hoses only? (I know, it my money and my decision...just don't want to be getting a problem child...I want it around for several years!)

Thanks,

MT

 

I would be inclined to buy it if I know what was truely leaking...depending on what this tube is.

Yes run the ford gold coolant only and keep it at the full line on the degas bottle and check daily.

I had a leak one time towing down in SC heading to fl. I just kept it full till I was there and could change the hose.

 

I am inclined to buy it as well. They have it listed at $18,990 and the coolant leak is the only issue. That's what I was seeing around here for decent 6.0L's ....no way I'm wanting to go down that road after reading many a-thread. Based on the fixes needed on these, I can do most or they have been done on the truck.

I'll let you guys know how it goes in a few hours.

 

Soooo...... I came home with a pretty good good truck. I talked with the service manager (a graduated diesel t change of 15 years at the dealership) and he went through the entire service history of the truck with me. The previous owner had every TSB fixed, even out of warranty he paid for the fixes. The coolant leak is actually one hose running from the front to (maybe? ) the egr cooler.... The new technology that has done all the truck's work scooted under it with me in the parking lot and showed me the hose, and how to snake it, then went inside and gave me part numbers and prices.



....got 17.8 mpg on the lie-o-meter at 67mph on the highway home (20 miles + 3 stop signs.)

 

nice looking ride and an easy fix for the coolant. When you get the hose get some coolant. You can buy the coolant with the ford spec at napa as well. Throw the coolant and a spare fuel filter behind the back seat. Just in case.

 

..Err...fixed it.... Silly smartphones...

 

Thanks for the help. What other tools do you keep in these trucks for just-in-case? Specific socket sizes?

Also, should I be adding diesel fuel treatment of any kind? I want this thing to last for the next 10 years, and so far it is off to a really good start. The undercarriage has nary a a rust spot, and even fewer fluid spots or drips (except wear that hose is misting out). The engine looks almost brand new underneath. Oh, and I got 17.8 mpg, all highway on the way home...then it dropped to 16.8 after a few stop signs to the house.


Any other advice for this new 64L owner?

MT

 

36mm socket fits both fuel and oil filters. So I keep that in the truck along with a spare fuel filter and a bottle of coolant.

that is all I carry unless I am on the road..then I bring along the usual stuff that you would with any other truck.

I use diesel kleen every once in awhile, others use the Ford PM 22

 

Diesel fuel additive is cheap insurance. Do it often! You'll want it for it's lubricating qualities. ULSD is a very "dry" fuel... meaning that it has almost no lubricating qualities. Keeping the fuel system lubed is the most important aspect of a diesel fuel additive. Cetane boost is good too, but really just a bonus.

 

Would you add fuel additive to every tank? Every third? Any brands better than the others? Or is their a Ford spec?

Gotta love all this clean energy initiative stuff, that costs everyone more money and results in less fuel efficiency...so we gotta burn more fossil fuels in the end...........ethanol, low sulfur, emission controls....where will it end? Not everyone can be Amish.

That's neither here nor there. Hopefully you guys can keep the pointers coming. Thanks a bunch.

MT

 

I try to add additive every tank but more to add an additional lube element into the fuel. Diesel fuel is so sporadic on quality up here.

 

I just happened to look through the local regs out of curiosity....I might need to start looking for a used cat/dpf to temporarily use. Seems to me only 2006 and older diesels are now exempt? But I also saw a local tech on another forum state that over 8500gvwr is exempt? Man oh man, now I won't sleep because of this tonight!!!!