1988 F250 460 EFI Rebuild Project
#61
05-06-2014, 08:39 PM
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Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, Tx
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Ummm.... Same way you're supposed to.... Bring cyl 1 to tdc with both valves shut (power stroke) and put distributor in with rotor pointing to number 1 plug wire of dist cap.
No one cares what mark you made on intake or whatever, new timing parts mean that the only thing of value are timing marks on balancer (if outer ring hasn't rotated) and pointer of timing cover. Even if you don't have those you can still do it.
No one cares what mark you made on intake or whatever, new timing parts mean that the only thing of value are timing marks on balancer (if outer ring hasn't rotated) and pointer of timing cover. Even if you don't have those you can still do it.
I ordered a timing mark for an older 460 in the hopes that it works. Otherwise I may be back asking about setting the timing without the pointer.
#62
05-06-2014, 09:27 PM
Usually the distributor cap has a number cast into it, if not, it really doesn't matter where it is. I've stabbed a dist in an engine any way I could and then put number 1 where the rotor was (stupid chevy with flat drive) As long as the engine is at tdc, I've used a coat hangar as a pointer before. No big deal.
If your cap doesn't have a number on it, look around for a pic of one, in relation to the alignment notch in it.
If your cap doesn't have a number on it, look around for a pic of one, in relation to the alignment notch in it.
#63
05-09-2014, 10:52 PM
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#65
05-10-2014, 06:29 AM
#66
05-10-2014, 08:10 AM
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#67
05-10-2014, 09:25 AM
I should have elaborated when I posted that eBay link...
I've dropped too many sockets in the pan. I ground down and welded a 1/4" socket to an extension for my 302 and FE engines. I tape the 5/16 socket fir 341 and 460s. I'm starting to get back into engine building, and come across those extremely affordable pump primers. The seller had a set of two for like 15$ shipped and I lost track of time and missed the auction. Oh well.
I've dropped too many sockets in the pan. I ground down and welded a 1/4" socket to an extension for my 302 and FE engines. I tape the 5/16 socket fir 341 and 460s. I'm starting to get back into engine building, and come across those extremely affordable pump primers. The seller had a set of two for like 15$ shipped and I lost track of time and missed the auction. Oh well.
#68
05-10-2014, 11:09 AM
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#69
05-10-2014, 12:47 PM
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Well the pump is primed, the distributor is on and it is at TDC. When I was priming, oil squirted out of a hole in the back of the block (see the photo where I zoomed in below). I tried at first to plug it with some shop towels but it didn't start flowing to the rockers until I put the sending unit (not exactly sure that that is) in the hole. Hope it didn't mess anything up to be running the oil pump with that open.
Here are some updated photos
Here are some updated photos
#70
05-10-2014, 01:00 PM
Its fine. The sending unit must sit in a major oil passage to the top end I would guess. At least you found it now instead of in the engine bay.
When I primed mine the machine shop had forgot about an oil galley plug by where the filter screws on and it dumped a ton of oil on the floor but I was glad to find it then instead of in the truck and have to tear the all the accessories off to get to it
When I primed mine the machine shop had forgot about an oil galley plug by where the filter screws on and it dumped a ton of oil on the floor but I was glad to find it then instead of in the truck and have to tear the all the accessories off to get to it
#71
05-10-2014, 02:59 PM
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So does anyone one what part this is?
I think it is a engine coolant temp sender but the one I bought from NAPA has a double lead and this one is a single.
Also, I think the black one, which is the air temp sender is the one that goes here instead of the coolant temp but would like to confirm.
Thanks for the help!
I think it is a engine coolant temp sender but the one I bought from NAPA has a double lead and this one is a single.
Also, I think the black one, which is the air temp sender is the one that goes here instead of the coolant temp but would like to confirm.
Thanks for the help!
#72
05-10-2014, 04:42 PM
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#73
05-10-2014, 08:27 PM
The single prong one is water temp for the gauge, the dual prong gold one is for the ecu.
The black open plastic one is ecu intake air temp for ecu. The solid ones are usually for coolant, but I've pulled solid ones out of the intake air as well. The plastic ones are also commonly used in the airbox for air intake temp.
That place where the oil come out of, is the correct location for the oil sending unit. If you want a mechanical gauge also, I'd put a t in there ahead of time. The oil passage it's in is the main feed for the cam and lifters.
The black open plastic one is ecu intake air temp for ecu. The solid ones are usually for coolant, but I've pulled solid ones out of the intake air as well. The plastic ones are also commonly used in the airbox for air intake temp.
That place where the oil come out of, is the correct location for the oil sending unit. If you want a mechanical gauge also, I'd put a t in there ahead of time. The oil passage it's in is the main feed for the cam and lifters.
#74
05-19-2014, 09:12 PM
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The single prong one is water temp for the gauge, the dual prong gold one is for the ecu.
The black open plastic one is ecu intake air temp for ecu. The solid ones are usually for coolant, but I've pulled solid ones out of the intake air as well. The plastic ones are also commonly used in the airbox for air intake temp.
That place where the oil come out of, is the correct location for the oil sending unit. If you want a mechanical gauge also, I'd put a t in there ahead of time. The oil passage it's in is the main feed for the cam and lifters.
The black open plastic one is ecu intake air temp for ecu. The solid ones are usually for coolant, but I've pulled solid ones out of the intake air as well. The plastic ones are also commonly used in the airbox for air intake temp.
That place where the oil come out of, is the correct location for the oil sending unit. If you want a mechanical gauge also, I'd put a t in there ahead of time. The oil passage it's in is the main feed for the cam and lifters.
Now onto the next question. I brought the new flywheel and clutch home when I brought the block home from the machine shop. So now the new flywheel has a thin layer of surface rust on it. Is there something that I need to do about that before attaching it?
#75
05-19-2014, 09:15 PM
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I just finished the exact same build last week and cranked it on Wed. I assume you used assembly lube on all the bearings so prime the pump and turn the crank some and prime again. turn the crank fully over 2 times so you are back at tdc then you will be fine. The pump will stay primed.
Also I noticed that you tore the top end down to remove it. Install every thing on the motor even the accessories and brackets and all the top end stuff except for the Throttle bodies and mount.
You can just unplug the wiring harness and wire the intake stuff up on the stand and replace the crappy vacuum lines and throw the airpump stuff in the trash. It really cleans up the engine bay
Also I noticed that you tore the top end down to remove it. Install every thing on the motor even the accessories and brackets and all the top end stuff except for the Throttle bodies and mount.
You can just unplug the wiring harness and wire the intake stuff up on the stand and replace the crappy vacuum lines and throw the airpump stuff in the trash. It really cleans up the engine bay