Steering column/shifter problems

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05-07-2003, 09:00 PM

jlasater

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Steering column/shifter problems

Just yesterday, the auto tranny in my F250 stopped going into park unless I swing the shifter over quickly. It usually stops in reverse. The colar around the steering column that supports the shift lever is pretty worn. Started to adjust the tranny linkage rod, but when I crawled under the truck, I was able to shift the tranny back and forth by hand. Something came undone or broke in the column. I'll have to build a puller to pull the steering wheel. Any ideas what might have broke? Is there a common weakness in the steering column on these trucks?

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05-07-2003, 11:30 PM

R Rocks

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Steering column/shifter problems

My shifter is a bit worn as well, the thing has to be held in the park position with slight pressure to start. What can I do to prevent the same problems as jlasater.

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05-08-2003, 12:58 PM

rustyf100

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Steering column/shifter problems

I had the same problem with mine. I did some calling around and found a wrecking yard that rebuilt the column for me for $150.00
Now it works great. Before I found the local yard I had done a search on the net for steering columns and there were a couple of places that you can send them to for rebuild. But they were $250.00 but I think they were a more compleat rebuild.

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05-08-2003, 10:25 PM

jlasater

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Steering column/shifter problems

Looks like just the shift collar is broken internally. Pulled the steering wheel off and it was obvious that the integral sleeve on the shift collar that rotates the tube and linkage was broken completely apart. About $35 worth of parts including shipping.

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08-30-2014, 07:02 PM

faof2

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Steering column/shifter problems

I understand that I am responding 14 years after you posted this topic. If you (or anyone else) remembers doing this repair, I would like to have the benefit of your experience. My shifter now just moves freely without moving the bottom part. I am hoping I can repair it myself. I have removed the shifter lever and the steering wheel and cannot yet see anything in there.
I have to go down farther by removing the turn signal and other things.
Will I eventually get to see what is broken? If so, is this part replaceable from the top?
Where did you get your replacement parts?
Thanks in advance for any advice.

Jerry

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09-02-2014, 03:58 PM

JEFFFAFA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by faof2

Welcome to FTE

No problem newbie. Go here Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100 Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts for their part number CODZ7228B for 3 speed manual or C9TZ7228A if you have an automatic. Or let me know which one you have and I'll research Ford n.o.s.

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09-02-2014, 05:15 PM

faof2

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Steering column/shifter problems

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oNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w

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ontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Thanks, JEFFFAFA, for that tip. Would you happen to know if this item (the shift collar) is available as a genuine Ford part, possibly from an old dealership, closeout, etc.? I understand the part number is “D5TZ-7228-A”. I’ll bet some old timer has one tucked away in the garage and has forgotten about it.
I have taken apart the steering column to the point that I have confirmed that the steering tube collar is severely cracked, ready to fall apart. I just need that one replacement part.
However, I do not see any way to remove the old one and insert the replacement without cutting the wires to the turn signal and horn. Surely there must be individuals who have performed that repair and can advise on how to do it.
Anyone out there have experience with this?

Changing subjects slightly, in removing the steering wheel, I see that the plastic on the horn bar, behind the black rubber piece, is deteriorated. Might that part be available? Don’t know the part number. Also, the turn signal switch has broken plastic. As long as I am in there, I would like to replace those parts also.

Oh, one last question – where exactly is the neutral safety switch on this 72 F250, auto trans, power steering?
Jerry
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09-02-2014, 06:51 PM

orich

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There's a little tool to remove the wire out of that black double side connector.
But many guys don't want to buy it for like 12-15 bucks. So they cut an splice them back together. Terminal tool Lisle 56500 Terminal Tool Removes Wires

One tip is when removing tie a string and put some tape around the that area so is won't come off while to pull the wires out of the steeling tube. Why so you can pull the new wires back into the tube. If you fail to do this you will play hell getting the 6 wires back into place..

The Neutral safety switch is down by your brake pedals mounted into the top part on the steering column tube. About across pedal the 2 wires plug into it.

Orich

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09-03-2014, 01:00 AM

faof2

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Steering column/shifter problems

ontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w

ontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w

ontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w

ontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Thank you , ORIK, for your service. I spent my military time working at Fitzsimons Army Medical Center in Denver, 1969 to 1971. Thank you also for a most helpful suggestion that likely will solve my problem of changing out the shifter bowl on the steering column.
I will obtain the Lisle 56500 Terminal Tool Remover you recommend.
Just to be sure, I do not need to get the Lisle 57780 Terminal Tool for Ford?
Are there instructions to guide me as I remove the wires from the terminal block?

Thanks also for explaining where the neutral safety switch is. I thought what I saw might be the reverse back up light switch. Do you know of any instructions for adjusting this neutral safety switch? I have a feeling that when I get this all put together, I will have to re-align this device.
Jerry
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#10

09-03-2014, 09:07 AM

orich

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Thanks Jerry
Okay once you separate the terminal block find the round tool that will slide into the open end this will compress the little tag lock lip lightly pull on the rear of each wire until all out.. This tool fits kind of on the tight so may be a shot of wd-40 will help some, twist the tool while pushing it in works for me.

Once all of them our removed group them use some black tape covering the terminals then light wire or some heavy string/ fishing line weed or weed eater line. tied and taped over the first wrap of tape, But remember it has to be pulled out of the column so keep the wrap string size some what small.

The N safety switch finger pointer clips into the inner tube as, I seems to remember.
But can't remember that well since only messed with one of those 25 yrs ago on my father in-law truck. May someone who has done it more reason will chime in and help you out on doing this. And don't want you the wrong info confusing you..
Orich

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#11

09-08-2014, 10:11 PM

faof2

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Steering column/shifter problems

ontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w

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ontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Hi,
I am submitting this to follow up on my question in case someone may be following this thread intending to perform a similar repair. I had asked for a way to remove the wires from the steering tube without cutting the wires since they cannot be pulled through with the connector attached. “Orich” recommended use of the Lisle tool number 56500 (wire terminal tool) to remove the wire ends out of the terminal connector, after disconnecting it under the dash. The good news is that I got them out. However, it took some doing. The tool has round tubes of several sizes . The tube with the correct inside diameter is supposed to be pushed over the pins to compress them, thus releasing them so that they can be pulled out the back of the connector. The tool 56500 did not compress the wire terminals. The tube on the tool with the least diameter simply slid freely over the top of the wire terminal. I managed to lean the tool at an angle so as to compress the proper spot next to the plastic hole. Eventually I was able to get all the wires out. If there is a tool with a slightly smaller inside diameter, that would probably work better. I would think the diameter of a number 45 or 46 drill bit would be about right. I did not have the proper size drill bit to determine the diameter of the smallest tube on the tool.
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#12

09-08-2014, 10:35 PM

orich

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Hmm gees that tool worked on mind. I believe it was the long tool end that was pretty tight but it worked, well at least you got the changed was the main thing..

orich
Okay here's a pix of mind

before

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#13

09-09-2014, 11:12 AM

NumberDummy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA

Go here Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100 Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts for their part number CODZ7228B for 3 speed manual or C9TZ7228A if you have an automatic.

Or let me know which one you have and I'll research Ford n.o.s.
I'll save you the trouble...

D5TZ-7228-A (replaced C5TZ-7228-A & B & C9TZ-7228-A) .. A/T Shift Collar Kit / Available from Ford

1965/77 F100/350 & 1973/77 Bronco.

MSRP: $66.85 // FTE sponsor silverstatefordparts.com online price: $46.13 / Gaudin Ford - Las Vegas NV
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
D5TZ-7228-B (replaced CODZ-7228-B) .. 3 M/T Shift Collar / Obsolete

1961/77 F100/350 / 1966/77 Bronco // 1960/65 Falcon/Comet.

TOM HILLIER FORD in Escalon CA has 1 = 209-838-3535.

MARTY FRANICH FORD in Watsonville CA has 1 = 831-722-4181.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 8 = 800-543-4959.

NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 13 = 972=937-2201.

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has 15 = 606-787-5293.

PERRY FORD in National City CA has 50 = 619-474-6451.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 50 = 888-727-0418.
==========================================
faof2: With an A/T, the NSS controls the backup lamps.

C7TZ-7A247-A .. NSS (Motorcraft SW-600) / Obsolete ~ Available from auto parts stores.

1967/77 F100/350.

Attached Images

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#14

09-12-2014, 12:09 AM

faof2

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Steering column/shifter problems

ontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w

ontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w

ontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w

ontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Thanks, “Number Dummy” (Bill / retired Ford parts manager) for the sources for that part. Were you able to confirm the part number for the horn bar for the 1972? Or did I miss that? The horn bar does not appear in the exploded view.
“Orich”, I checked again to be sure. None of the tubes are on the Lisle tool are quite small enough to compress the barbs on the end of the wires to pull them out of the connector. But the tool does help.
I have now cleaned with brake cleaner the turn signal switch and the round metal piece containing the bearing that it attaches to. I am wondering how to lubricate the bearing now that I have chased out most of the dried grease from the bearing.
Allow me to throw out a question to solicit opinions. When I am finished with this work, I plan to sell the truck (1972 F250 with 76,000 miles). Now that I have the steering column open, do you think it is worth putting in a new turn signal switch at the cost of $65 for the part? The original has a crack on the plastic so turning the wheel back after a turn does not cancel the turn signal. It would be easy to do now. Waiting means taking it all apart again – or (the new owner) not doing it at all. I do not believe I would get $50 more for the truck if I do it. What do you think?
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#15

09-12-2014, 08:26 AM

orich

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My tool is pretty old from the 80's that. I needed to for my 87 Camaro, I had. It was thought they mark them color coded Green so. I'll look it up an see if that it the same number.
And used a few times on my truck Ign. switch plug & the blinker wires connector
Orich

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