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Excursion - King of SUVs 2000 - 2005 Ford Excursion

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Old 06-20-2012, 11:21 PM
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Rear hatch latch assby replacement "how to" w/pics

Finally got around to fixing the rear hatch lock today. Fairly easy job as it turned out.

The "controller" was worn out, #2 in the link. I had previously taken it apart and tried everything I could think of to make it work, but it was just done. 2000 FORD EXCURSION Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot Yes, it's pricey.

It only comes as a complete assembly with the latches, cables, and electric lock actuator.

Click the image to open in full size.


First step is to remove the inside door handle (torx bolts) and the plastic trim. Pops right off.

Remove the 3 nuts holding the assby to the door as circled below in red.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Circled in green, pop that clip back towards you to release the rod connecting the outside handle. You will need to re-use that clip, so be careful. Unplug the electric actuator. Gently release the key lock rod from the clip by the lock mechanism. (not pictured)

The latches are easily removed with the 3 torx bolts on the sides of the hatch. Unplug the door ajar switch connectors on both sides. It's a tight fit to get it out, may need to remove the electric actuator. I did not need to remove the wiper motor, it came out the driver's side with some wiggling.

Once you get it all out, you need to remove the switches from the old latches to use on the new assby. I fortunately figured out the "trick" to it without breaking them. There is a "tab" (says "tab" right on it) you need to gently pry up and then twist the switch towards the tab to remove. (circled below) Reinstall them on the new assby with a twist.

Click the image to open in full size.

Reinstall the manual lock rod in before you put it back in the door. It just slips into it's hole. Getting the whole thing back in the door involves various twisting and manipulating, but it will make it from the driver's side. Install the nuts, snap the clip back with the rod for the hatch handle and snap the lock cylinder rod into it's clip. Plug in the door ajar switches and manipulate them back to their proper loactions and intall the 3 torx bolts.

Make sure the cables didn't slip out from their proper spots during install and close the hatch (barn doors open just in case). I didn't do that and had slipped a cable so it wouldn't open. Crawled back over the seats and got it open, but much easier to skip that step.

I checked it all for several operations before I put the trim back on just to make sure everything was good. If something is wrong and the trim is in place, I think you are in for some headaches to get back in there.

Works like a charm, first time since I have owned it I can lock the back door.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:10 AM
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Great Job Eric. I added it to the temp Tech_Folder: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...l#post11898840

Side note: This is my 1,000 post.
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:47 PM
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Do you have the actual part number for the piece you replaced? I have had a hard time finding anything like it on the net.

Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2013, 10:39 PM
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Try this link.

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...ent=Controller
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExxWhy View Post
Thanks...

I found this site just a while after posting here. I ordered just the actuator, and will order the other if I need it after I tear it apart. It has been a heat wave of +20, so I will hopefully have time to spend some quality time with my new acquisition.

Thanks again.
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:23 PM
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Thanks a lot for putting this together! I cracked the liftgate open this morning and while the actuator is still actuating, the pin / slot combo that does the locking on the controller appears to be worn out beyond repair.

I thought I could clean / grease my way out of this problem, but I was only able to get the KEY to lock / unlock, and not reliably. Part of this is lock cylinder related (which I'll also be replacing), but it takes an uncomfortable amount of torque to lock the door w/ the current controller, and I'm pretty sure I'll eventually break the key off in the lock.

I'm probably going to end up replacing the actuator as well, but I want to see how the new controller does before ordering yet another part. Thanks again for the post.
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:34 PM
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Thank you for documenting and posting this!
Reps sent!!
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:34 PM
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