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  #1  
Old 06-19-2012, 11:49 PM
tiqueman97 tiqueman97 is offline
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Roush charged F-150, what to monitor next?

Ive got an 06 Roush charged 150 that ive had an issue w/ since day one. (another one of my threads on here explains it) Ive finally paid it off and now want to start making it right on my own since the roush dealers cant. Within its first 300 miles I installed a gauge pilar with Autometer Phantom series gauges, boost and transmission temp. I do a lot of towing so thought the temp would be nice to monitor.

Of all the times its run like crap, all the times Ive taken it in, replicated the problems w/ a tech riding shot gun, because no error codes are being thrown, the truck is, in terms of dealers service "fine" and nothing is wrong with it. So Id like to do more monitoring of my own to see if I can see anything that may be causing it, but what? Fuel pressure, Air/ fuel mix? I like the look of the gauge pilar and the Autometer phantom gauges I have, it all blends w/ the truck and looks factory. I wouldnt mind changing to a 3 pod instead of my 2. OR, do I want a multi gauge that monitors several things, I just dont care for the look of them (rectangular type devices) installed or mounted on the dash.

And f.w.i.w. Ive also been in contact w/ two different tuners and waiting on answers to see if they have had similar issues w/ the same "stock roush programming" as I have and if theres a simple tune to fix it. But, Id still like to start monitoring more things on my own, especially if I get a tune.

So whats the order of importance to monitor? I hate to ask what is probably a lame question of basics, Everything else I seem to know enough about, except the thing I use EVERY DAY.
Thanks for your help
Scott
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2012, 10:01 AM
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Papa Tiger Papa Tiger is offline
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Papa Tiger has a good reputation on FTE.Papa Tiger has a good reputation on FTE.
Doing a HEC test can give you monitoring capability of many systems, either with the engine not running or running. Researching the threads can give you an answer to the engineering data. While the pillar gauges or the Programs with monitors built in are nice, the OBDII is best if your system will communicate OBDII. Some claim problems with the OBDII and Roush programmer. I would look at the gap on your spark plugs. Instal new and close them up from the plug you receive at the parts counter by .010". Engine should come alive with the tighter hotter spark. Many swear by the old plug, the lightening plug ( copper core ) with the electrode design. I have had good luck with the iridium plugs, just need to look for them, to get a good price. If you don't have to worry about the tail pipe, locking the phasers in advance can give you cam timing certainty.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:52 AM
tiqueman97 tiqueman97 is offline
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Thank papa. I do want to investigate my plugs, but I'm terrified to pull them on my own with the stories I've heard. I ran a handheld scanner on it last night and it came up with no codes, so I was happy about that, but stumped how it can sputter out and even stall, yet not throw a code. Not sure how deep the scanner went though...
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:23 AM
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When you navigate your OBDII, its options open up freeze frames, which take about 30 minutes to record, driving at say 60 mph, you can also open up PID's, which can graph seperately. Looking at the MAF's changing voltage, throttle body opening %., fuel systems, O2's ect, each seperately to find a malf. Your plugs are best handled with the motor warmed up, an electric impact wrench a short extension and good quality spark plug wrench. Having the lisle tool is a good option, renting or borrowing it is also good. Being quick to remove the plugs while the engine is hot is important. Using care/caution but no fear is cool. The new spark plug is a 1 piece design much better. Started in 2007? You may have them in it now. If you have never installen new plugs, save a lot of money and do it now. You may never have had a good set. Some plugs leak, don't throw misfires, just are crap. Remember with the supercharger it is harder for the plug to fire. Correct gap and good condition are best. Your problem has driven many with LPG fuel nuts, running and getten em started just because LPG is harder to spark ignite. That is a simple example of a fuel/air/spark ingniton problem. There are many threads on the spark plugs across the different forums. Just use the search box navigate to it at the top of the page in each forum. There is a Utube video of a ford tech removing spark plugs with the impact. My input is with the feeling your truck motor is in good mechanical condition. Compression is ok as is the vacuum. If they are off it will never run worth a crap until the problem is fixed, but you have always been disgusted with its power? And you should have loads of power/torque at your demand. Seems like if you have burned valves it should have discentigrated long ago with broken pistons. Also the same with a vacuum leak. It is always possible a fuel pump module is whacko, or the PCM but they should have also cooked years ago. Sometimes a very basic problem exists, so simple everyone overlooks it. A very complete examination, with a fresh mind can find it. Something so simple as a broken wire, or one with many of the strands broken but the circuit still completed will drive you nuts. Back to basics with a plug change first will begin the process and save you lots in the long run. OBDII for sure examining ever step of the way for sure if you can. If nothing else simply to the the parts yard, pickup the parts and put it back to stock, so you can enjoy its great power without the Migranes. LOL
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2012, 01:09 PM
tiqueman97 tiqueman97 is offline
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LOL so many times my wife has said that.. "just put it back to stock". Advantage is, part of the deal when I purchased the truck, again new on 06, was that I recieved ALL parts that were taken off. Then the dealer "lost them" so bought me everything brand new in the box. So its all in a couple boxes in the closet.

Its not that it never had or has power, its just how it cuts out, almost like its shutting down, then it tries to kick back in and at that point its too late. And as my other thread states, the worst is when Im at above 45 or 50 and put the pedal down, it just doesnt go. It loads up, gargles, sometimes backfires, has even stalled. This is the issue I want fixed that dealers can not seem to figure out, so with the help of all you brainiac mod guys on here, I hope to not only accomplish it, but advance my knowledge about my SC truck.

As for the plugs, they were changed in mid 2010 w/ the HT0 plugs. Ive put about 25k on the truck since then. I had also changed the fuel filter att hat time and just picked up another today... Anyway, I dont wantt o get off topic and go thru whats in the other thread of mine about it.... back to monitoring

Ill look up how to use this handheld. I hope it can do what you think it can papa. I know nothing about it other than I was talking to a friend of mine yesterday and he said "oh, Ove got a obd2 scanner, youre welcome to come get it. I was toggling thru the different things and asking him "whats this and that" he had no idea other than using it for basic reading of codes.

I really appreciate your knowledge
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2012, 01:26 PM
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I just went and read the other thread (which BTW, should have been posted here from the beginning).

You probably don't want to hear it, but you got the best advise in the other thread, "handheld and custom tune" by a GOOD tuner, but you seem to be averse to doing the one thing that could have fixed your problem years ago. What is the aversion?

Also, I don't know how you have gone so long with the truck in that condition, I wouldn't have made it 100 miles doing that before I was back to the dealer demanding they make it right or put it back stock and refund my money.

To stay on topic;
As far a monitoring; A/Fs, timing, fuel pressure, boost/vacuum are a great place to start.

PM sent
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:06 PM
tiqueman97 tiqueman97 is offline
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Yeah that was my first post on here and I think I even mentioned I realized I put it in the wrong place. If you only knew how many times I went to the dealer.. two of them actually. I stormed out of the local roush dealer and have never gone back. I even tried to lemon law the truck. Even attempted to trade it back in 3 months after I purchased it but got offered less than half what I paid for it... trust me, I bitched constantly and both roush dealers I went to began to hate when I showed up. I finally just gave up. there comes a point when you say, my trucks f'd up and apperently ford doesnt give a rats a$$ and Ill deal with it later. So, thats what Im doing.

I know I got good advice on the other thread, and I am going w/ a custom tune, just not sure where yet or when. But, I do also want to be able to monitor things and not tune it to where it gets tempermental w/ stock internals. I want this truck to be reliable and last another few years before I have to get something else or rebuild this one. And Im hoping being able to monitor and keep tabs on a few more items will assist me w/ giving it a longer life. Id like to be able to see when I start having problems and asses them before it becomes a major problem.

Oh... the aversion.... Building a brand new house and losing my job 6 weeks after closing.... Made just enough money for a while to pay the bills and the truck payment. things are all starting to fall into place now, started my own buisness, trucks paid off as of 8am today, things are looking better, and now theres some $ free'd up that I can start making this truck right....
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:13 PM
tiqueman97 tiqueman97 is offline
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Oh, and Im considering adding first the Auto Meter 5778 Phantom Wide Band Air Fuel Ratio Kit to go along w/ my other Phantom gauges. Thoughts? Or should I look at something else?

I will also be getting a handheld in the very near future, just havent decided yet on which one or from where. Cant seem to get VMP to call me back. Sent an email to Troyer.....
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:15 PM
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Gotcha!

I'd say you're only pushing about 6 psi with a stock set-up and if the tune is correct and you aren't trying to squeeze every last HP out it, you will be fine.

I just went to 10 PSI and added a wideband because I was told my fuel system would be "on the edge" and wanted to know if I was going lean. Well, as it turns out, my tune is rock solid and my A/Fs are perfect according the charts and wideband. I'm now contemplating going 12 PSI, because I'm never seeing 10 PSI during the pull, only after it has started to drop off and wound up so tight near 6K.

Go check the link I sent you.
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:21 PM
tiqueman97 tiqueman97 is offline
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I just saw that and thank you. Ill go check it now. I appreciate it.

thats good to know. I always try and stay on the cautious side of things. Its my weakness. And yes, I am at about 6lbs.
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  #11  
Old 06-20-2012, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiqueman97 View Post
Oh, and Im considering adding first the Auto Meter 5778 Phantom Wide Band Air Fuel Ratio Kit to go along w/ my other Phantom gauges. Thoughts? Or should I look at something else?

I will also be getting a handheld in the very near future, just havent decided yet on which one or from where. Cant seem to get VMP to call me back. Sent an email to Troyer.....
I don't know anything about the Auto Meter, I use the Innovate Motorsport's MTX-L, but I'm sure the AM is okay and will go with your existing gauges.

As far as handhelds, I'd wait until you found your tuner and see what they want to use or recommend. I use the SCT X3.

Since you're in FL, go to VMP. I would much rather "go" to the tuner than datalog and get email tunes which you will have to do with Troyer unless you drive to VA, and I hear his mail order tunes can take up to 8 months.

Good luck!
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:27 AM
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I would have an oil pressure gauge for sure, no matter what type you choose....
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:27 AM
 
 
 
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