Thanks Pops !! But I must say it was hard to choice what what upgrades to do with limited $$. It would have been easier on the parts end if I had more $$ to work with. And as far as skills go I have to be honest I am alittle over my head but I have read a couple books about 10x's and I am blessed to have a brother like Roland who has taught me so much about these 4R100's.
Thanks Roland for being willing to hold my hand and walk we though the rebuild. Also I must thank Darrel/ NissianDoc for his help and insight. All you guys are GREAT!!! I wouldn't have even tried to do this without the 7.3 PSD Brotherhood.

 

[quote=BadDogKuzz;11981541 All you guys are GREAT!!! I wouldn't have even tried to do this without the 7.3 PSD Brotherhood.[/quote]

im hearin ya there, so much i have done myself on mine and have all the confidence in the world to do any repair/upgrade..i have confedence to help people with a problem here aswell.
no question is ever thought of as silly or stupid, theres never a problem with something that has been covered before like some other sites. new people are welcomed with open arms.
im glad i sat down and googled ford trucks years ago otherwise id hate to know how much things would have cost at a shop.
this site is a credit to the helpful nature of likeminded people with a passion for a great rig. WE ROCK. LOL...

 

I am glad you concur with me my Aussie brother !!!
I would like to clear up a statement I made early about being over my head in the skill dept. I do have skills and I am good with a wrench and a hammer. HeHe Actually I use to make a living turning wrenchs for about 25 yrs. But where I am lacking on this build is the what and why's of how these 4r100 work and fail.

Yesterday I got to spend some time working on the trans and I only broke one thing. After cleaning parts I went to install ext. housing with a new teflon bushing that came with the kit. And before starting I wasn't sure I liked the idea of a teflon bushing, I mic it and it was .015 out of round and it looked like cheap teflon job. Well it didn't want to go in and I destroyed trying to put it in with a socket. Well I'll go with a bronze ext. housing bushing and I'll go and buy a bushing driver to install it.

But I did buy a Sonnax T36008a for installing the 1pc rear case bushing and that made it so easy to install and align the oil hole. I also used the tool to install the rear spag race. Which was giving me a hard time since my alignment pins were not treaded. The tool was money well spent.

I went to mock up the reverse clutch pack and with the wave plate I was at .062 end play. (Spec is .025-.048 and for performance .025-.030) And that is after soaking the clutchs first. So I took out the wave plate and added 1 more clutch and steel which got me to .031 end play. And ATSG gives you no specs for rear clutch pack. ATSG is better than no book but I think it could do better. Now my brother Doug from FDP has written a book on building the E4OD/ 4R100 and it is the best 516 pages of info, parts, photos, specs, modds and complete overhaul manual. It is copyrighted and I was blessed that he gave me my own personal copy. All he asked was NOT to copy I agreed so if anyone needs a GREAT manual PM me and I'll let you talk to him.

Now I am working on rear planet gears and end play to the Sun gears and Sun Shell figured out ? I am trying to blue print it as I put it together so when I get back into it for Stage2 I'll know where it is going to need to be tightened up. I am mic-ing the thrust washers, bearing, clutchs, steels and unit end play and overall end play and I am writting it all down.


Sonnax rear bushing tool, lip wizard, alignment studs


rear race install with alignment pins and Sonnax bushing installer

 

Looking good Ed.

 

Low reverse has no stack clearance spec. This comes from Ford, so that is why you wont find it in the ATSG manual.

.020-.040 works well.

 

Well after alot of digging and searching I found out what you already knew. So lucky for me the book I got from Doug had them specs. He also had specs for the rear shaft end play of .020 or less, difference of pulling and pushing the rear of shaft. And once again I couldn't find any Ford or ATSG specs on that.

Now when I checked my in and out on the rear shaft I had .030 and I think I know where the problem is. The reverse planet hub was worn and scratched up where the metal thrust washer to the planet gears. The thrust washers were worn out. So I sanded it smooth and was going to use the rear planet washer shims that came with the Sure Cure kit but the kit came with shims for the 4 tap thrust washer. Called Sonnax and they don't make a 3 wide tap thrust washer shim. I couldn't believe it since anyone with a diesel or hipro is running a 6 gear rear planet (3tap washer) So I am going to just let go until Stage2 and address the issue then.

What do think is a good #'s for end play on the rear shaft ?? Anyone else who might have a clue could also hopefully give me their input too. PLEASE
Sorry I am learning as I go and I have more questions than answers.

 

End play .015 - .020.
I have never had to shim any yet. Bet I just jinxed myself.

I don't think the extra play will hurt you any.

 

the autos lookin good mate,
nice and clean..
have you been takin heaps of pics as you go, you could do a step by step auto rebuild thread for the keener DIYers on here..
that would be great...

 

Well I thought things were going along pretty well... I didn't have the correct bushing drivers for a few bushings so I took them to a local trans shop to have them installed. And I went to pick up the parts and I was wondering what they were going to charge me. But it didn't matter I needed them installed. So the lady said "No Charge" and I was so happy until I got home at looked at the pump bushing and the STUPID son of a B**** put it in backwards. So it would push the oil to the front seal NOT away!!!!!!!!!!! So now I need to buy a new bushing and seal. THANKS DUDE!!!!!!! This just an other reason NOT to trust or take your trans to a local Joe Blow trans shop.


But on a positive note I have built up all my units and set the end play on ALL clutch packs. I even mocked up the IM and OD clutchs and they were close to specs as far as end play. But I am going for the middle of specs but on the IM clutchs I am going to go on the tight end of spec since the IM piston has such a short throw so I am going for .030. So Monday I am ordering sizing retaining rings so I can get the end play I want. And of course a new pump bushing and seal too!!

 

Well the harder I try to get something done on this trans more issues I run into. I went to rebuild the accumulator with the Sonnax parts and the kit was missing one green spring.


Now as I started to try to get the old accumulator valves out they were sticking and hanging up bad. The bores were in need of some TLC or a bore resizing tool. Which would cost more $$ I don't have. So I made some home made bore honing/polishing tools. Laugh if you want but the valves now slide very nicely. I started with 400 grit and finished with 1500 grit.

Also a flux brush handle worked out nicely for holding and feeding the valve into the bores.

I also took apart and cleaned and polished the bores in the valvebody

I rebuilt the cooler bypass with the a Sonnax kit

 

Thanks But I am not taking alot of photos but I am trying to take some to keep track of some stuff.

And as far as me doing a full write up on rebuild I don't think I am the guy for that. It would be like the blind leading the blind.
I am lucky to keep my head above water on the build. But I am trying very hard to do the best I can with what I have to work with.
I'll be happy if the trans works after I fix it.

 

It's gonna work fine! With all the effort you are putting into this project to do it right, it's gotta work. Don't start doubting anything now. You're too far into it to turn back. Get'r done, Brother! I want to see you, the family, AND your truck at RRE.

 

Thanks Brother !! I needed alittle moral support. Techanical I got it handled now. Hopefully Monday I can get the parts straightened out. I am ordering a Tru Cool since I dare not reuse the 7.3 cooler. Transmission Parts Tru Cool Heavy Duty Tru-Cool MAX transmission cooler with external thermal bypass Is this the one you have? And I need to figure out what way I am going with the Torque converter. So hopefully I'll be installing it by next weekend and finishing up the other modds I have started.

I too am looking forward to seeing you and Mary at RRE and of course your truck. Hopefully I won't have to drive momma's chebie to RRE.
I really do miss driving Blackie!!! With her big wide rear (DRW) and chrome thong ( Chrome diff cover)

 

That's the cooler I have. I added thermal bypass last fall. It's been working out fine for me in bringing up winter trans fluid temps while the summer temps are staying in check..

 

Thanks Darrell the tool worked nicely.



Laugh if you want but this set up held the trans very well from moving around as I installed parts

Center support feed bolt shim. It comes .204 and I grinded it down to .183 to work in my trans.

Now after installing and torqueing the feed bolt I still had a .0015 distortion in the valve body mating surface. Oh by the way the first shim I did was too loose and I had to start all over until I got .183. Then I tried to do an other one and ended up with .182 So I guess I'll just let it go at that. This modd along with the other center support modds I did should help to keep the center support from moving around.