Lol Gig, don't worry, I'm no idiot. But the shift linkage has an akward setup and I want to be sure of anything before getting down there. Also, Snychronizating the trans and the shifter tube is extremely important... if you don't want to break another tube, that is.

 

I know from past conversations with you that you're not an idiot but some times people forget, no disrespect intended for sure , lol

Ya make sure the detent spring is in the right place and all that, is the linkage seal leaking ???

 

No leaking from that seal, just the front seal. But I'll further inspect everything when I get in there this weekend.

 

If the front seal is leaking the trans has to come out, if the torque has a drain plug, check to see if its tight, if you rotate the torque by hand the plug will appear in that hole there, Gerry

 

I think the sleeve for the seal is the cause, the torque converter was fine and tight (and dry). Taking down an E4OD is no easy task, so that will have to wait until I have somewhere to work on it or can pay to have it done.

 

Oh well, I took the pan out, everything was fine inside and around the MLPS, I tried to calibrate the lever several times by myself, then got a bud to help me by holding the lever in D while I moved the linkage near the MLPS to set it in D... I got it there, but it still shifted roughly, and it was quite a task to get the lever in P (I was risking breaking the new shifter tube). We kept trying and in one of my attemps I moved the lever at the MLPS all the way to P. After that, the lever at the MLPS and the one at the cabin were disconnected, so I think I broke the cable, which would confirm my early suspicion. The shifter tube broke because the cable stretched, and my attemps to put the lever in P placed enough stress on them make them fail (even though it was at different moments).

I guess I should try this, as the cable didn't look like it was broken... just in case...:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/434182_1

But I do have a question, how do I remove the cable from the ball stud? I was looking at the thing and I have no idea, don't want to try something and break the cable if it really isn't broken or hurt something else.

 

Ahh. Sounds like what happened to me. I took the long hard way put and made a floor shifter...

 

Actually though of that... That column shifter has me angry... But it did work flawlessly for 20 years. But yes, fixing the whole thing with a floor shifter would be so much easier, but the O/D issue would require to be addressed. And it's expensive.

 

How do I remove that cable anyway?.

 

The ball ends just snap off.. trans end has a snap lock that fits in a bracket, just squeeze the tabs on the back side and it will pull out the front of the bracket. The inside snap-in end comes out the top of the bracket, the plastic part has a tab that snaps in a hole in the metal bracket, a small screw driver pushed under the tab will release it....

You are going to find your break about 6 to 10 inches from the top end of the cable, that's where they break because it is making a tight loop...

 

I would rep you all guys... but apparently I've done so recently, so I'll have to wait some more, thank you very much!.

 

I hope you get it fixed sooner than later....

 

I'll probably wait for the next weekend if the cable is broken (which I'm 99% sure is), since I don't have the replacement at hand. But I'll take advantage of the situation, since I got the trans. pan down, I'll have a drain plug welded in it.

 

Your instructions were flawless, everything was a breeze, and it was the cable alright, broken right were you told me it would be, of course, the tight loop was the cause, and the shifter tube was probably near its life cicle anyway, so replacing everything was the way to go. The lever now moves nice and easy and the engaging is positive.

 

I'm glad its fixed now, I learned something new too, alls well.....