First off, I'm not a Ford guy. I've never owned a Ford until now. I'm grateful that it was given to me. Having driven it for a while, I'm coming around. My father in law gave it to me after I totalled my Toyota (due to uninsured driver).

To the point. It's a 97, 4.2L 2WD (rebuilt due to recall). I've got $1700 in it already (tires and brakes) and it died on me the other day. Waited 2 hours on a tow.

Took it to an ASE certified shop, they said I need a fuel pump and module, fuel pump assembly and a fuel filter and a 30 amp maxi fuse. $900. There was also a bad ground wire somewhere that got fixed.

Here's where I have a question. The fuse that was blown was the I/P blower fuse (#24 in the box) and not the fuel pump fuse. Tonight I replaced the fuse and turned her over and she ran for 5 seconds and died. Would not crank again.

I'm questioning my diagnosis. I feel I should check the relay next. But I'm not a mechanic. Just would like to get some input from the die-hards here on this forum.

Thanks. I'm new, an uninformed, so any help will be appreciated. Thanks!

 

If you mean crank as in turn over; do you hear a click of any sort because we are talking about the cranking circuit that comes before the running of the motor.
There is the fuse that supplies the power going through the ignition switch to the transmission neutral switch and back to the starter relay on the firewall.
This circuit causes the start relay to close power from the battery to the starter.
So you can have a problem in either circuit.
Since the truck is not new expect issues until you get ahead of them for awhile.
There is a saying that goes like this, often when something is free it still costs you to own it. so it's not really free.
The bigger problem is you may have not wanted it in the first place.
Start by cleaning the battery posts and cables, checking cable condition and connection tighness at all points right down to the starter and the ground cables.
Observe if the shift lever being in neutral has any effect. The trans switch will only allow cranking in Park or Neutral.
Good luck.

 

You might try cleaning all your ground connections. Any black wire bolted to the body or engine. Take them loose and sand the connection areas and the wire terminals till shiny. No sand paper? Make one of your Wifes cardboard nail files disappear. Protect the connections with dielectric grease (tune up grease) or use Vaseline jelly. Just enough to protect surfaces from corrosion. Same for your battery. Clean the battery connection to the engine block too. If you don't have a repair manual for your truck the library does. You may have to order it from a main library. Can't check it out but your can read it and take notes.

 

Happy to report that my problem has been fixed. I was walking by the F150 and noticed a connection dangling under the driver side around the gas tank. Crawled under there, hooked it up and it runs again.

Apparently the shop wanted $900 to replace parts that didn't need it. I fixed it with a $6 fuse. I'm really disappointed that a "certified" shop would do this. It a'int right. Anyway, I know where NOT to go now.

Thank you all for your replies.

 

Between joining this forum and buying a Chilton's manual for my F150 I have saved many times over.

 

If your manual does not cover the information you need.
Like I always say "The info you seek is in a book somewhere, FIND IT!"
A Main Library or larger branch will have professional repair manuals. Most have more information then the regular manuals. Just ask for them. (Keeps the Liberians in a job) Also fuel injection, A/C and other single subject manuals are available. I even saw a plot book for wiring harnesses. The book was foot and 1/2 by 3 foot. It showed what wires were in what section of loom and where it ran. Where junction plugs were. Where ground wires connected to ground points.