I have read and read and could keep reading, but without the pockets it seems to take for this (you fill in the blank), I've already had it in to have the codes read, had the MLPS replaced and been told the tranny, torque converter is good, blah blah blah and this thing still shifts like and old stage coach rides. Can you tell I'm frustrated? Tach works, speedo works, the one thing I do notice is that it won't accelerate (in neutral) clearly to the yellow line. Almost like you have to clear it's throat. Once in a while you can feel the torque converter let go real hard on take off or hold on tight on a stop, not sure what that means if anything, but I am wondering if I should start chasing every sensor having to do with the transmission or what. Please help. Would a Cam Position Sensor cause this sporadic shifting. It is obviously in LIMP mode.

 

Is the od lite flashing? Does it come on when canceling od?

 

Here is an older thread I remembered causing transmission shift issues due to a bad Baro sensor. Maybe worth checking out if nothing else fixes it ...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-sensors.html

 

No OD light flashing. Did do it once quite a while ago after gunning it excessively (in neutral), but not again.

 

So it is intermittent problem?

 

A trans in limp mode will not effect the fueling characteristics there is another problem with the engine. An engine down on power will not produce enough torque to make the converter or trans work properly. I would fix the engine issue first, sounds like a weak lift pump, or poor injectors.

 

Thanks Jim. Searching out the Sensor now. Over $100 and who knows if that is even the problem. Not saying it didn't fix his problem, but I have read so much about the E40d and the amount of hair that guys have pulled out over them, that it seems I'd of read about a little 2 sec fix by now. I don't know if I'm ready to spend that much on such a long shot. Definitely something to research though. Appreciate it!

 

Sorry guys. Don't know how to answer individually yet. The problem has been going on for a while. Started with very rough idle, which turned into no start at all (when it got cooler especially). Was told that all but two of the glow plugs were bad and one of the connectors on one bank was shorted. $460 later, no beuno. Not saying the GP's weren't going bad, but what ended up fixing the idle problem and got it shifting for a little while at least, was the MLPS. Now. Everything is back and the tranny feels like a disaster. I didn't want to hear it could be the motor, but it is what it is. How complex is the lifter pump? I know that I will have to sell a kid to get the injectors replaced.

 

Lift pump is rather easy, 4 bolts and 3 hose clamps, worst part is pulling the fuel bowl out to get at it. there kinda spendy, $150 i think. Before you tear that out check your fuel pressure. On the drivers side of the fuel bowl is a thing that looks like a valve stem for a tire. Put a pressure gauge on it, should be over 60 lbs at idle.

 

Checked the pressure a while ago when this was acting the same and it was over 60 psi, so now to the "really" spendy part I guess????

 

How about a little history on the truck itself.

What year?

How many miles?

Have you changed the fluid and filter recently?

Have you done any modifications to the truck?

Did you check the connections to the under valve cover harness?

Cam sensor?

Is the speedometer working properly? The sensor for that is located in the differential, front side, near the top.

Have you checked the fuel filter? What color was the fuel in there?

Not to be a pain, but the more we know, the better we can help.

 

I'm happy to answer the questions and appreciate you asking.

Truck is a 97 F350 4x4 Lariat'
Approx 260k mi.
Filters and Fluids are still good. Tranny done two weeks ago, oil still has another 1000 or more.
No mods I'm aware of. I didn't put any on it.
I have not replaced the Cam Sensor, but there is an old one in the glove box (hmmmm)
Speedo seems to be ok. No fluctuations.
Fuel in bowl is normal light green tint clear. Have not cleaned or checked the screen in the FPR though. A mechanic replaced the harnesses under the valve covers recently, but I'll check them again.

Could the Cam Sensor be doing this? Or possibly that Barometric Pressure Sensor?

 

Anyone know about rebuilding injectors vs buying new?

 

If you can use a volt meter here is a link where you can check out almost any sensor including the (BARO) sensor ...

97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual

Scroll down to "Electronic Control System Diagnostics" and under it click on "Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor".

 

Double Post ...