Some Real Basic Questions 'bout my Ranger
#16
Re your question about which manual is best. I've always found that the factory shop manual is the best place to get the info you need. I bought the 2 manuals I needed (body/chassis & power train/drive train) for my new to me '97 XLT from the local Ford dealer last year for about $80 tax in. That's the Canadian price, they should be cheaper in the States.
I've tried Haynes manuals and found them to be incomplete in some cases, & not accurate in other instances. I used to buy the large Chilton manuals which covered 5 or 6 years of various makes, however, with the advent of more and more electronics, I decided that the factory manuals would be the best bet.
Andy
I've tried Haynes manuals and found them to be incomplete in some cases, & not accurate in other instances. I used to buy the large Chilton manuals which covered 5 or 6 years of various makes, however, with the advent of more and more electronics, I decided that the factory manuals would be the best bet.
Andy
Since you have just discovered that your Ranger is a 93 model rather than a 95, you should check to see if your automatic transmission is a A4LD model. I believe the model you listed in your 1st posting was first used in 1995.
I would also recommend the Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader. It is available through Amazon.com for about $30. It will give you digital readouts which are easier to pick out than using the jumper method, especially if there are several codes stored in the truck's memory.
I agree with NS_ANDY that the factory manuals are your best source of information. I find them much more useful than either the Chilton or Haynes manuals.
I would also recommend the Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader. It is available through Amazon.com for about $30. It will give you digital readouts which are easier to pick out than using the jumper method, especially if there are several codes stored in the truck's memory.
I agree with NS_ANDY that the factory manuals are your best source of information. I find them much more useful than either the Chilton or Haynes manuals.
#17
Went to google which led to amazon which led to the Equus 3145 listings. I paid over $30 twenty years ago for the reader that beeps and blinks. They list a digital for $21.95. My how times have changed. I bought the factory paper manuals back when they came in expandable plastic binders with metal rods through the paper. I still prefer the paper to the DVD or CDrom versions. I can make notes, put stickys in to hold or mark sections, and can page back and forth much more readily than on the computer. The DVD and CDrom versions if you can find them on ebay are more affordable.
If you can find it, the EVTM, "Electronic and Vacuum Trouble Shooting Manual" is the most bang for the buck of any of them. Pictures, diagrams, and everything...
tom
If you can find it, the EVTM, "Electronic and Vacuum Trouble Shooting Manual" is the most bang for the buck of any of them. Pictures, diagrams, and everything...
tom
#19
#20
Well, looks like about $70 for 10 quarts of Mercon juice and a Felpro pan gasket and filter kit from autozone. Time factor is half a day or less. Aggravation factor is about a 3 or 4 on a scale of 1 to 10 due to usual interruptions like my phone ringing or some j-*** neighbor wondering up to tell me I'm doing it wrong...even though I've been doing car/truck/vehicle maintenance in my own driveway with a 95% success rate since 1975. What suggestions would you offer?
#21
Try this link. Type in the vehicle infor for the manual
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp
#22
Well, looks like about $70 for 10 quarts of Mercon juice and a Felpro pan gasket and filter kit from autozone. Time factor is half a day or less. Aggravation factor is about a 3 or 4 on a scale of 1 to 10 due to usual interruptions like my phone ringing or some j-*** neighbor wondering up to tell me I'm doing it wrong...even though I've been doing car/truck/vehicle maintenance in my own driveway with a 95% success rate since 1975. What suggestions would you offer?
Try this link. Type in the vehicle infor for the manual
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp
#23
#24
$70 was the whole kit and kaboodle...about $20 for the filter and pan gasket and $50 for 2 quarts and two gallons jug. So you only get three quarts out of the pan, huh...I'm used to dealing with monster C6 fluid changes. Is it easier to pull the return line at the tranny or the radiator? Which is the return line on the radiator...top or bottom? Gotta dig up my giant drain pan in the shop tomorrow...hope it's not under my extra C6.
#25
$70 was the whole kit and kaboodle...about $20 for the filter and pan gasket and $50 for 2 quarts and two gallons jug. So you only get three quarts out of the pan, huh...I'm used to dealing with monster C6 fluid changes. Is it easier to pull the return line at the tranny or the radiator? Which is the return line on the radiator...top or bottom? Gotta dig up my giant drain pan in the shop tomorrow...hope it's not under my extra C6.
Lots of of other useful trouble shooting & wrench turning info there also!!!!
Let us know how your tranny service goes.
#26
Got around to the Ranger transmission service today...had to service the Aisin 6 speed in the wife's 06 Montego first...no pan to drop on that, just pull the drain plug, drain and refill...drive around a little, then repeat.
Anyway, thanks for the thread on how you flushed your tranny Pawpaw...I followed that exactly. Pulled the upper line on the radiator, attached a hose to a catch bucket...an old 5 gallon oil change jug...started the engine and pumped 3.5 quarts out into the jug. Emptied the jug into my catch basin, jacked the truck up on the passenger's side under the shock mount and pulled all the pan bolts. Then I rapped on the pan for awhile until I got smart enough to get a short prybar and lever it under the rear edge of the pan and the transmission mount...pan popped right off. Got another 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart out of the tranny just letting it drain without the pan. Changed the filter, cleaned the pan, pulled the old gasket off in one piece, fitted a new Felpro gasket to the pan with all the bolts and stuck the pan back on. Gotta love those Felpro gaskets compared to the stock gasket that came with the filter kit. Got the pan bolts tight...oh, my creaking 53-year-old neck, and took a smoke break.
Put 4 quarts down the fill spout, started the engine and pumped another 2.5 quarts out. Put 2.5 quarts in and ran the engine/pump again...only 2 quarts out. Stopped right there and hooked the tranny line back up to the radiator. Put 2 quarts in the fill tube, ran the engine awhile and checked the fluid level...just a little bit low, so I added 1/2 quart to the get the fluid level right on the stick.
No crap or metal shavings in the pan, just old, mucky purple-brown fluid...it was overdue for service. Oh yeah, I tapped off the top radiator fitting where the line connects by wrapping a ziploc bag around it with a rubber band. Never lost any fluid from that port. Noticed the tranny line wanted to push back into the serpentine belt and pulleys with the drain hose on it, so I used a shop rag to keep it pulled forward a bit.
I know I got 8.5 to 9 quarts out of it, and put that much fresh Mercon back in...probably left a little of the old fluid in the radiator/cooler, but that's okay.
The ranger shifts nicer and smoother and quieter now, doesn't jerk into Reverse from Park either. Up and down shifts are quick and smooth. Glad I did this service...thanks for all the help.
Tomorrow I'm gonna rig a test light to the EEC port and ST1 port and see if any codes are lurking. It's due for an oil change in 1K miles, too...in the meantime I plan to crack the differential plug, stick a digit in there and see if the hypoid is still nice and smelly...I love the smell of hypoid/gear oil in the morning, makes the coffee and coffin nails even tastier.
Anyway, thanks for the thread on how you flushed your tranny Pawpaw...I followed that exactly. Pulled the upper line on the radiator, attached a hose to a catch bucket...an old 5 gallon oil change jug...started the engine and pumped 3.5 quarts out into the jug. Emptied the jug into my catch basin, jacked the truck up on the passenger's side under the shock mount and pulled all the pan bolts. Then I rapped on the pan for awhile until I got smart enough to get a short prybar and lever it under the rear edge of the pan and the transmission mount...pan popped right off. Got another 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart out of the tranny just letting it drain without the pan. Changed the filter, cleaned the pan, pulled the old gasket off in one piece, fitted a new Felpro gasket to the pan with all the bolts and stuck the pan back on. Gotta love those Felpro gaskets compared to the stock gasket that came with the filter kit. Got the pan bolts tight...oh, my creaking 53-year-old neck, and took a smoke break.
Put 4 quarts down the fill spout, started the engine and pumped another 2.5 quarts out. Put 2.5 quarts in and ran the engine/pump again...only 2 quarts out. Stopped right there and hooked the tranny line back up to the radiator. Put 2 quarts in the fill tube, ran the engine awhile and checked the fluid level...just a little bit low, so I added 1/2 quart to the get the fluid level right on the stick.
No crap or metal shavings in the pan, just old, mucky purple-brown fluid...it was overdue for service. Oh yeah, I tapped off the top radiator fitting where the line connects by wrapping a ziploc bag around it with a rubber band. Never lost any fluid from that port. Noticed the tranny line wanted to push back into the serpentine belt and pulleys with the drain hose on it, so I used a shop rag to keep it pulled forward a bit.
I know I got 8.5 to 9 quarts out of it, and put that much fresh Mercon back in...probably left a little of the old fluid in the radiator/cooler, but that's okay.
The ranger shifts nicer and smoother and quieter now, doesn't jerk into Reverse from Park either. Up and down shifts are quick and smooth. Glad I did this service...thanks for all the help.
Tomorrow I'm gonna rig a test light to the EEC port and ST1 port and see if any codes are lurking. It's due for an oil change in 1K miles, too...in the meantime I plan to crack the differential plug, stick a digit in there and see if the hypoid is still nice and smelly...I love the smell of hypoid/gear oil in the morning, makes the coffee and coffin nails even tastier.
#27
OK, good feedback & to hear your pan drop, filter change & full tranny fluid pumpout went well. I too always notice an improvement in shifting after the full fluid pump out, so imo its worth the extra effort & cost to do it. I usually pump out the power steering system at the same time, as the P/S fluid oxidizes & its ad pack wears out over time also.
#28
#29
#30
Still waiting for my Haynes manual to arrive, but was able to give my little Ranger a good road test today. Couldn't figure out why the ride was so stiff/rough, so I put a tire gauge on the tires and found them all four at 50 psi...cranked that backed to the recommended 35 psi on the driver's door sticker and rides much smoother. Also checked the differential juice and all is good there.
Topped off the tank with 87 octane ethanol-laced go juice at a local Conoco station and drove around the Loop for a mpg check...logged 30.4 miles on the trip odometer, went back to the gas station and it only took 1.003 gallons to top off the tank again. Hey, I'll take it!! I was running 63 mph in OD without the AC on. I was lucky to coax 12 mpg out of my old 69 F250 Ranger with the 360 V8, so I am a happy camper right now. Next thing to do is track the mpg in town driving...if I can get 15 I'll be satisfied.
Topped off the tank with 87 octane ethanol-laced go juice at a local Conoco station and drove around the Loop for a mpg check...logged 30.4 miles on the trip odometer, went back to the gas station and it only took 1.003 gallons to top off the tank again. Hey, I'll take it!! I was running 63 mph in OD without the AC on. I was lucky to coax 12 mpg out of my old 69 F250 Ranger with the 360 V8, so I am a happy camper right now. Next thing to do is track the mpg in town driving...if I can get 15 I'll be satisfied.