If it ran fine for two days and the problem started when you ran it out of gas on one tank then I'm with Jeremy - something happened with the gas tank change-over. But, I have lots of other questions:

• Has it ever run on the tank you switched to?
• If so, how much gas is in that tank?
• How old is that gas?
• Again, please explain how it runs on that tank. Does it idle just fine but won't rev at all when you give it throttle? And, when it doesn't rev, does it die? Or just keep idling?

The answers to these questions, and especially the last question, will help determine if there is something clogged in the carb or if it may just be the fuel filter.

 

And. N abbreviated and.

 

Yes I run both tanks and gas is fresh was my daily driver for a year or so them I started putting money in her.

 

I cannot respond with help until I understand the answers to all of my questions. So, I need answers and I need answers that I can understand and do not have to translate. Sorry, but if I have to translate I probably won't as there are others that need help and I don't have to translate. Your call.

 

As I said previously I'm going to check filters, if I find clog tanks are getting droped and flushed. New lines, sending units, and tank selector will go in. also it has always ran great on either tank, with no issues what so ever.

 

When it back fired, it stayed running, low idle. When I gave it gas it did nothing. When I rolled to a stop it died. Now it won't start.

 

Ok, I think I understand, but this is different than I understood previously, which is why we must be crisp and explicit. Sounds like, as Jeremy said, the fuel filter is a good suspect. And, there is a possibility that the carb has junk in it.

But, the first thing I would do is to pull the fuel line where it goes into the carb, crank it over, and see if you have gas. If you have gas there then pull the coil wire, crank it, and see if you have spark. If you have gas at the carb and spark, and assuming that the backfire was caused by a fuel problem and not the timing chain jumping cogs, then it is likely that the carb is the issue.

Let's not get ahead of ourselves, so once you do the above then let's see what you've found.

 

Ok thank u. What am I gonna need to do if its the timing issue u describe?

 

If it is a timing issue you will need to put a new timing chain on it. But, how new is the timing chain? If it is reasonably new then it shouldn't be the problem. However, if it has lots of miles on it then it may be the problem. And, what might have happened is that the hiccups when you ran out of gas and then got some back in caused it to jerk enough to jump time - meaning that the crank and cam shaft are now out of time with each other.

So, when you test here's a procedure I would suggest:

1. Pull the gas line where it goes into the carb and check to see that you have gas going in.
2. If you have gas going in, pull the air cleaner, crawl up in the engine compartment, and give it some throttle with your hand. As you do, watch to see that you have two streams of gas squirting into the carb. If not, at least the accelerator pump has problems and the top of the carb has to come off to see what the situation is.
3. If you have the gas streams in #2, pull the coil wire, get it close to something that is grounded, and have someone crank the engine. If you have spark then move to #4, if not you need to figure out why there is no spark.
4. If spark and gas but it won't start then the timing is suspect. Pull at least the #1 plug and have someone put their thumb/finger over it while you turn the engine with a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. When your helper feels strong air coming out you know you are on the compression stroke, and you need to stop turning the instant s/he says the air stopped. At that point the timing mark should be very close to TDC. If not, you may have a problem. But, you really need to get more accurate, so I would insert a drinking straw through the spark plug hole and crank the engine again. But, you'll have to go two full turns this time. And, as you approach TDC on the 2nd round you want to stop exactly when the straw quits moving out. That's TDC, and the timing mark should say so. If it does go to #5. If not, repeat the step until it does, but if it just won't come up on TDC then you have a harmonic balancer problem.
5. Once you are right on TDC we need to see that the ignition timing is there as well. Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing exactly at the #1 plug wire - you may have to mark things with the cap on to figure it out. If it does point directly at #1 that would tend to say that your timing is ok. But, I would then put a timing light on it and have someone crank the engine while you watch the timing marks. If the chain hasn't skipped then you should be seeing the same timing as before the problem started. In fact, you could do this test w/o ensuring that the harmonic balancer hasn't slipped.
6. If you do all of the above and it still won't start you have a unique problem and need someone better than I to help you.

 

Sounds like a plan.

 

I see now, thank you.

Not trying to be an @ss, but many people here are of an old-school mentality and will absolutely ignore people who write in text-ese, or otherwise abuse the English language. We have some really good (semi)-retired carb & ignition guys here, you will be missing out on their help & input if you continue to write like that.

Capitalization, punctuation, proper grammar go a long ways towards asking for help on the Internet. It doesn't need to be perfect Shakespearean English, but easy to read and understand is paramount to getting help from these guys.

Just sayin'....

 

Thank you for the heads up.

 

does any one forsee? any problem with ripping out my 460 and tranny, swapping in a fuel injected 5.0 with tranny and cpu, into my 3/4 ton f 250? so i can properly rebuild my carburated 460 & tranny?

 

plz if any one SEE'S this i need opinion?

 

I'm pretty sure the engine perches are different, and they are probably riveted in on the driver's side so you'll have to grind the rivets off, punch them out, and use G5 bolts to put them back in. And, I believe the radiators are different, although I don't know if the outlet locations are different. I tend to remember that the hose size is what is different so you may have a problem getting hoses to fit. Also, your 5.0 is going to require a catalytic converter or the computer is going to be very unhappy, so you'll have to add one - but you were going to have to redo the exhaust anyway as the 5.0 won't bolt to the 460's exhaust system. Lastly, depending on what transmission the 5.0 has, the transmission mount may be in a different location. And, if it is an auto the shift linkage will be different, as will the cooling lines.

IOW, no problem as long as you are up for the work, adaptation, etc.