That's the same thing the manual for my 2012 says as well!

 

Hi everbody, I can't say how great its been to get all your help.

Heres an update. I figured the reason ford doesnt want you to drave at the same speed is because they want the rpms to flexuate. I notices no matter what speed your going the rpms hover between 1200 and 1400. So I drove it 220 miles on the back mountain roads (very little freeway) and used it in manual mode. I shifted it like it was a stick shift usually at or a little under 2000 revs. Sometimes gradually getting on it up to 2600 to work it a bit. When crusing never let it get under 1500 to much to keep it from lugging. When I got home I put it in 2nd gear and would rev to 2600 and hold it for about 3 seconds and let it wind down, then again for about a mile which equels about six times.. not to comfortable with the red line thing on a new motor.

Please let me know what you think. Oh yea, I posted later that I checked the oil this morning and it was dirtier than a 3000 mile change on my '02. Why?

Gain, thank you so much.
Mark

 

Soot will blacken diesel engine oil quickly and I'm sure more emissions and EGR have something to do with it too.
It is still in great shape and you can change it when you want or by following the IOLM.

You probably put more effort into the RPM's than most but you varied them and that's what you're supposed to do.
I have never run mine to redline in it's 43,000 miles.

 

Way to go Mark. Don't be afraid to fool around and figure out your new truck. As for the dirty oil, the 6.7L diesel utilizes an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system. In lay-mens terms, it recirculates a portion of the exhaust gases back thru the engine to re-burn them so as help clean up the exhaust output. Well, that means that ugly black stuff that used to blow out your tailpipe on that 7.3L is now getting re-burned. Can you say, "thanks EPA" Consequently, some of it is going to find it's way into your oil, turning it black. Also, if you idle much, that's not going to do you any favors either. Low quality fuel can contribute to the issue as well.

Just as a note of caution; a lot of us use a fuel additive with cetane booster and has a good lubricant, such as:

Power Service, Power Service Products, diesel fuel additives, prevent gelling, clean injectors, disperse water, boost cetane, reduce emissions, improve fuel economyPower Service Products, diesel fuel additives, prevent gelling, clean injectors, disperse water, boos

Stanadyne, Diesel Fuel Additives :: Stanadyne Performance Formula, Racor, Power Service, Lucas Oil or

Motorcraft Cetane Booster https://www9.benefits.ml.com/login/l...10119&action=1.

There are quite a few brands on the market. Find one you are comfy with if you decide to use one. With Ultra-low sulfer diesel that we buy today, there just isn't as much lubricant in the fuel as there used to be. You should visit with your favorite trusted Ford service guy about it to get comfy cozy feelings about using additives. Hope this made sense and helps.

 

Hi Ron,

I hope global warming doesn't ruin my new truck... I guess I will know more next winter when its to cold out to start it. Lol.

I used Stanadyne in my old truck from day one. Every tank full. I'm telling you the oil looked almost new at 3000 miles every time.

I saw somewhere not to use additives for the first couple thousand mile because it could lube things up to much and ring wont seat properly or something like that. Can't remember now but it made sence when I saw it.

Does stanadyne have the booter in it?

 

I personally use either Power Service or Mororcraft. I haven't checked the others too much.

You can click on the blue letters (links) I sent you in the last post and it will take you to their website.

 

You'll be impressed how well your 6.7L will start in the cold and as soon as it turns over, it will high idle depending on temperature.
About the only reason it won't start is if your fuel has gelled!

 

Lol. I can tell something is different starting the '12 compared to my '02. Its instantanious.
I have to tell you guys. This is the first time i've used a forum.. I don't really know the system but so far it seams like you guys are giving me way to much of your time. I sure am gratefull. If your ever in Auburn Wa. I owe ya lunch.

 

I'll offer another angle on engine break in, mostly from my experience with turbocharged gasoline engines. Taking it too easy during breakin, which people often do, can wear the cross hatch honed into the cylinder off before the rings seat. This is much more of a risk with a finer cross hatch, less of a risk with a coarse cross hatch (I know what goes in my race motors, but I don't know what Ford uses). If that happens, they won't seat for a very long time. I've had cylinders take 10,000 miles to reach full compression. I don't mess around with that any more. Nothing seats the rings faster than a little boost.

On the street cars I would build boost for 2-3 seconds, not going to too high of an rpm, then coast down in gear to wash it down, every so often for the first 100 miles (with a few oil changes). It's done at that point (can be seen with a compression test). With the race car, I run full power for half track (1/8th mile) twice, change the oil, then two quarter mile passes and change the oil again. It's broken in at that point. No way to take it easy for 500 or a 1000 miles with a race car that goes a quarter mile at a time.

Excessive idling after building the motor will pork it too. After about 20 minutes of idling (tracking down leaks for example) there's a good chance the cross hatch is worn smooth and breakin gets more difficult. I start it once to check for leaks. Then warm it up and cool it down twice, and change the oil. Then it goes to the track.

With the truck, I'm just letting it build 10-15 psi for a few seconds a couple times during each ~30 minute commute. Otherwise driving pretty normally. My mixed driving commute doesn't allow for extended periods at one rpm either so I don't have to go out of my way to avoid that. At ~500 miles now I consider the engine mostly broken in, but I'll give it 500 more before pulling the trailer in in case it needs it.

Oil changes during breakin are important too. Breaking in an engine is an extension of the machining process, metallic particles will build up quickly in the oil and can damage bearings and other softer materials. Bearings from an engine that didn't get the first oil change until 3000 miles look terrible, while bearings from an engine at the same mileage and use that had frequent oil changes during breakin look almost new. I've tried it both ways and seen the results first hand. On the turbo gas engines for the street, I do an oil change after a couple warm ups (more like a flush), again after ~20 miles building some boost every so often, 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles, and then 3000, and normal after that. The race car gets an oil change after warm ups, after two 1/8th mile passes, after two full passes, after 2 events, and normal after that. For the truck I'll probably do 500 miles, 1000 miles, 3000 miles, and normal after that. It seems excessive but it can be well worth the trouble. Shine a flash light in the used oil pan in the dark to get an idea of how much metallic material is still accumulating in the oil. With a diesel I'd expect poor ring seal at low miles to contaminate the oil in that way as well, another reason to do the first change relatively early.

Everyone has their own break in procedures, this is just what I do now after the experiences I've had over the years.

 

You're not kidding! Coming from the 6.0, this thing puts that motor to shame, in many ways. Starts immediately even in single digits. Doesn't even run rough at all.

 

The truck is whicked. I have been looking for a new truck for about 5 years. Every time I walked onto a lot the salesmen would talk me out of it saying the truck I had was better than they could sell me. Lol true story..you should have seen those vultures around it when i traded it in. I like the new one though, allot of power and cozy too. Like everything else you buy I'm just trying to get educated. The new truck is a way different animal. I flew a real jet simulator one time and it was way easier than the crap thats on this thing. Lol. But I didnt have to change the oil on the jet.

 

There is a lot to learn on these.
For example, if you don't see the gear numbers on the dash computer while in [D], push the + button on the column shifter and you'll have those all of the time while in [D].
I like being able to see the gears and some people miss this feature for awhile or accidently discover it.
You can also lock out upper gears while in [D] with those buttons.

Another random example, when it comes time, changing fuel filters is as simple as eating.
Might want to have an extra DFCM bowl on hand though; some have broken them since they get stuck on there.

 

Nice write-up.

Race cars, ehh? What class?

Thanks for sharing your real world experiences.

 

I too saw the ambiguous instructions for break in on our 12 cc sb....
and since I got it to tow a new 5er, the first weekend we got it we made a round of northeast Texas rv parks since we had a crew coming the next week to visit us in their rv's...

I put 900 miles on it the first week with 400 coming that first weekend
and I too did the manual shifting to vary speed...

but @ 900 miles I'd had enough and hooked the trade in to the truck and towed it easy to the dealer and traded on our 5er...

has 18k on it now and pulls the 5er like it wasn't there (if it doesn't have a 40 mph cross wind like yesterday's tow back !!!)

had to pay attention to the wiggle I was getting from the sail out back until I found a nice 18 wheeler going my speed to break some of the cross wind !!!

 

Hey kper05,
That eating tjing your talking about! If you could see me you would know I'm a perfect example of that statement. So I'm going to go out and change my gas filter. Lol