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The plan was to swap in a Super Duty front hub because I was going to swap in a Super Duty rear axle. But it sounds like ride quality won't improve, payload won't improve, and I completely forgot it had 3.55s instead of 4.10s lol
The plan was to swap in a Super Duty front hub because I was going to swap in a Super Duty rear axle. But it sounds like ride quality won't improve, payload won't improve, and I completely forgot it had 3.55s instead of 4.10s lol
Somebody has to decide if he is gonna drop the coin for the vehicle....
Why was I thinking 250-275 ? I prob don't want to know what my dog is...
You got any on an generators for sale tom?!?!
Maybe a white one?
Originally Posted by tjc transport
nope, i gots a 1964 10 KW green screamer fer sale.
you saw that post, huh??
i would think at 250-275 it would need ether to start.
i know with the idi's 300-325 is no-start territory, so i always say over 400 is a good engine, under 350 is rebuild time.
I can say with certainty that 340 PSI per cylinder starts JUST FINE even when it is cold, cold, COLD outside. I had to fire mine up (unplugged) at about 10* (F) the other day to tow my neighbor's stalled out Duramax home for him. It wasn't happy about it, but it did it just fine with working glow plugs. Generally, it fires up just fine, but hazes for a while (and you can smell the incomplete combustion) until it is warm. I wish I could say I', actively looking for a low mileage replacement, but at this point, I have so many other irons in the fire, that the poor truck isn't getting a lot of love. The wife's van, the house, the tractor, the barn, even the lawn mower are all in line ahead of the truck. It's a sad state of affairs, but it just keep chugging along. I came across a relatively low mileage mill the other day, but they wanted $1100 for a short block, which isn't a great deal, in my opinion.
I'll let you know soon Aaron lol. It'll boil down to how much it's going to cost me to get the '69 home
i did a compression check on it. Had to use a grease gun hose to make it work and it would only thread a few times. It would top my gauge at 300 after a few cranks on all but one cylinder which hit 280. The whole test was iffy with the tools I had but it gave me the answer I needed: I don't have a dead cylinder.
I know prior to this, Ol Green would start with these compression numbers, not plugged in after sitting for 12+ hours outside in the cold wind. It didn't matter what the temp was, it'd fire up
What's the lowest compression our trucks can have on a cylinder and still be able to fire?
After seeing the responses to this question, I'm wondering why you are asking. Because an engine could fire with a couple cylinders that have zero compression. The minimum compression needed for a cylinder to fire actually depends on the temperature of the air,cylinder,fuel etc.