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the official OBS diesel off topic thread

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  #11926  
Old 11-13-2014, 07:52 AM
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I need to get the hardware to fix mine. Starting to get a little sag.
 
  #11927  
Old 11-13-2014, 09:22 AM
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YouTube it. Someone has videod it before. I saw someone do it with a ratchet strap To hold the door up I believe
 
  #11928  
Old 11-13-2014, 09:54 AM
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All 4 doors on mine are bad, pry should get on that at some point...lol I have nightmares about getting them all lined back up.
 
  #11929  
Old 11-13-2014, 10:10 AM
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It's pretty easy. Just draw an outline around each hinge it with a sharpie marker before you dismantle them. I've done the two front doors on my truck and it worked out just fine.
 
  #11930  
Old 11-13-2014, 10:12 AM
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When I do the hinge pins, I use a die grinder with a cut off wheel to grind the head off the pin. The use a punch to drive the pin down and out. I you do one hinge at a time, you can get the new bushings in, and get the pin back in, with out removing the door. This way you usually don't have to mess with re-alining the hinges to get the body lines correct.
 
  #11931  
Old 11-13-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by farmert
When I do the hinge pins, I use a die grinder with a cut off wheel to grind the head off the pin. The use a punch to drive the pin down and out. I you do one hinge at a time, you can get the new bushings in, and get the pin back in, with out removing the door. This way you usually don't have to mess with re-alining the hinges to get the body lines correct.
This is how I intend to do mine. I don't want to get into messing with the hinge proper so the body lines stay intact much easier.

I need to get the pins/bushings - anyone got a source on that?
 
  #11932  
Old 11-13-2014, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by farmert
When I do the hinge pins, I use a die grinder with a cut off wheel to grind the head off the pin. The use a punch to drive the pin down and out. I you do one hinge at a time, you can get the new bushings in, and get the pin back in, with out removing the door. This way you usually don't have to mess with re-alining the hinges to get the body lines correct.
Trouble is I think someone before me took it upon themselves to adjust them on account of shot bushings. That's my fear.
 
  #11933  
Old 11-13-2014, 12:08 PM
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Well, I guess its my turn on the bad luck merry-go-round. On top of the dead mouse in the seat of my 97 on Monday, the AC compressor seized up on my 96 last night. It must have sat too long I guess. I unplugged it for now.


I need to do the door hinges as well, but that's low priority right now. What is the approximate cost the fix?
 
  #11934  
Old 11-13-2014, 12:14 PM
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I found pins/bushings on 1AAuto for around $30 for a pair. I'd need 2 pairs, obviously. I know my front doors are starting to sag a touch, but never really looked at the back ones.
 
  #11935  
Old 11-13-2014, 12:59 PM
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Phil..I win.
Installed my t500 last night and pulled the threads out of the timing cover on the pass side bolt.it never even got snug.threaded in by hand,drew up with 1/4" ratchet just to get flush with timing cover.got the torque wrench and went to torque things and it just spun..pulled pump and the threads came with the bolt...heli coil install tonight..
 
  #11936  
Old 11-13-2014, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cowmilker08
What is the approximate cost the fix?
I got mine from O Reillys. Cant remember if it was $8 or $12 a pin (x2 of course). Quite a bit more expensive than I was hoping.

Finally got the fuel pressure gauge on the Cutlass yesterday. It was putting out around 15 psi (internet says should be 34-36) but he said his gauge has a tendency to leak. Bought a fuel pressure regulator for it anyways. $50 shot in the a$$. Didn't do a bit of good.
 
  #11937  
Old 11-13-2014, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by El Camino Man
I got mine from O Reillys. Cant remember if it was $8 or $12 a pin (x2 of course). Quite a bit more expensive than I was hoping..
That's in line with the 1A price then - at $15 a head. Pricey, for what they are.
 
  #11938  
Old 11-13-2014, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by El Camino Man
I got mine from O Reillys. Cant remember if it was $8 or $12 a pin (x2 of course). Quite a bit more expensive than I was hoping.

Finally got the fuel pressure gauge on the Cutlass yesterday. It was putting out around 15 psi (internet says should be 34-36) but he said his gauge has a tendency to leak. Bought a fuel pressure regulator for it anyways. $50 shot in the a$$. Didn't do a bit of good.

Because you need a pump dingleberry...cough it up chump lol
 
  #11939  
Old 11-13-2014, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by El Camino Man
Fenders, cab, doors... The trucks body is pretty well toast lol.
Maybe you should pull the engine and put it in your dually.....
 
  #11940  
Old 11-13-2014, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman67
Phil..I win.
Installed my t500 last night and pulled the threads out of the timing cover on the pass side bolt.it never even got snug.threaded in by hand,drew up with 1/4" ratchet just to get flush with timing cover.got the torque wrench and went to torque things and it just spun..pulled pump and the threads came with the bolt...heli coil install tonight..
What a bummer Aaron!!!!!!!!!! I did that on my mule and this thread helped me a lot! Bomb Proof HPOP install parts - Ford Diesel Power Forums I don't think I'm telling you anything you already don't know but thought it might be interesting reading to help you go to sleep tonight. I'll say it again, that stinks. You win the bad day report! LOL
 


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