1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

D60 Swap for my 86 F250HD Cummins 12V

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  #31  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:04 PM
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I wish I could find a rust free 86 crewcab for under 5k
 
  #32  
Old 04-29-2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
I wish I could find a rust free 86 crewcab for under 5k
Yeah, if I didn't have so much time into my supercab already, I would fix up this crew cab, swap the cummins over and never buy another truck! But this CC is all manual interior, no AC etc, so it lacks some of the modern features I'd have to have going forward. We're there Lariat CC made in this vintage? If I could find a solid lariat CC I'd probably be sold!
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I want to rebuild (probably just bushings & seals, nothing major) my D50 in my 1981 F350 along with ball joints and all the related stuff but I'm somewhat intimidated by it and it scares me...

My pass-side front tire wears from the outer edge to the inner, the front end thunks & clunks when I back out of the driveway onto the street, the steering wheel spokes are dang near vertical while driving straight, and the truck pulls badly to the right.

I've replaced ball joints & control & such arms in cars before, then taken them to the alignment shop. But I read about these caster/camber bushing things that are sometimes used in these front ends, it would seem stupid of me to take everything apart, replace parts, reassemble, take to 4x4 shop, and have them take stuff apart to add/change/delete what I've done so they can get the alignment right.

I don't have the money for this right now, anyhow, but I'm expecting it to be a summer-long project when I can get to/afford it.
Unless there's something loose or worn bad enough to allow front/rear movement on the passenger side, that sounds like the toe is wrong. Given we're talking about 30 yo trucks so worn bushing could easily be a big part of it. Maybe just put it up on stands and check left/right center to center front of tires to center to center on rear. Should be approximately 1/8" to 1/4" closer on the front than the rear.
 
  #34  
Old 04-30-2012, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 63nova86F250
Yeah, if I didn't have so much time into my supercab already, I would fix up this crew cab, swap the cummins over and never buy another truck! But this CC is all manual interior, no AC etc, so it lacks some of the modern features I'd have to have going forward. We're there Lariat CC made in this vintage? If I could find a solid lariat CC I'd probably be sold!
I dont know about a Lariat pkg or not but i do know you could only get FRONT power windows all the way untill 94
 
  #35  
Old 04-30-2012, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
I dont know about a Lariat pkg or not but i do know you could only get FRONT power windows all the way untill 94
Hmmm, I wonder if a guy could swap power into the rear doors? Eh, when I go CC, I'll probably go newer???
 
  #36  
Old 05-01-2012, 11:28 PM
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You have a CC right there.....
 
  #37  
Old 05-02-2012, 12:31 AM
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Ya I was thinkin if your willin to work with travel I might be interested in that CC. Sounds bout exactly like my 250 only 2 more doors. But then I realized my wife would KILL me. By the way that is a great lookin truck you have, I love the Cummins swap.
 
  #38  
Old 12-06-2013, 12:46 AM
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So I know this is an old thread, but hey it's still my truck and still a work in progress. I just out my winter wheel/tires on and was told by the tire shop that likely two of my BFG KM1's are starting to lift and head south. So, it's time to go bigger, with a legitimate justification for my wife! On these OBS 350 trucks I understand it's possible to go with 35's without a lift? Can anyone confirm this? Pics of your stock height 350 with 35's? I'm thinking of going with the Cooper Discoverer STT's. I can get a set for just under $1200 mounted and balanced... Plus I'm figuring the BFG's are still worth at least $300-400 to someone looking for great farm truck mud tires as they have at least 75% tread left on them.
 
  #39  
Old 12-06-2013, 05:26 AM
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If you don't mind cutting your fenders, then YES, they will "fit"

33s are the Biggest that will fit with no modifications
 
  #40  
Old 12-06-2013, 11:37 AM
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Brad, do you have to trim the front of the wheel well? I have my 33" BFG's on there at this very moment and it seems there is a ton of room? Have you put a Dana 60 in your 86 by chance? The only reason I asked is because I know the fender/bumper profile becomes an issue from 92-up but it seems like the shape/clearance on the 86's is enough different it would. Hmmmm, back to drawing board possibly. The tire shop said they would test fit them for me too though, maybe I'll get lucky?
 
  #41  
Old 12-06-2013, 01:06 PM
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I have a stock height Dana 50 ttb with 35's. They clear but it's really close.
The actual fender clears just fine, the close spot is the plastic inner fender just behind the metal fender on the very front of the wheel well, and that's only with the steering turned about half way.
I can take a picture if that didn't make any sense...
I think one of the biggest factors is the offset of your wheels.
 
  #42  
Old 12-07-2013, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 63nova86F250
Brad, do you have to trim the front of the wheel well? I have my 33" BFG's on there at this very moment and it seems there is a ton of room? Have you put a Dana 60 in your 86 by chance? The only reason I asked is because I know the fender/bumper profile becomes an issue from 92-up but it seems like the shape/clearance on the 86's is enough different it would. Hmmmm, back to drawing board possibly. The tire shop said they would test fit them for me too though, maybe I'll get lucky?
Here is my 86 with 6" of lift and 37s. the tires rubbed the running boards. Since then they board have been removed and 35s put on

with 35s and still 6" lift
 
  #43  
Old 12-07-2013, 04:16 PM
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I have posted about this before, if you have a mall cruiser you can probably get by with a very large tire with the factory height. If you use your truck as it was intended, you will not be able to use very large tires on it. Put a load of oak firewood on the back and get out of the woods with it, through ditches and over rock ledges, and if it doesn't rub, then you are ok.

People use their trucks differently, I am not knocking that. But saying "this tire will fit without rubbing" is a little misleading.
 
  #44  
Old 12-07-2013, 05:31 PM
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Very nice looking truck you have. I'll have to check out your build thread.
 
  #45  
Old 12-07-2013, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I have posted about this before, if you have a mall cruiser you can probably get by with a very large tire with the factory height. If you use your truck as it was intended, you will not be able to use very large tires on it. Put a load of oak firewood on the back and get out of the woods with it, through ditches and over rock ledges, and if it doesn't rub, then you are ok.

People use their trucks differently, I am not knocking that. But saying "this tire will fit without rubbing" is a little misleading.
Well I definitely don't have a mall cruiser. Yes, I have redone the truck and I keep it nice, but it has to work.

<a href="http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/BansheeBrian/?action=view&current=0279ae64dd37b277cbfb3559b6b07 9cd.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/BansheeBrian/0279ae64dd37b277cbfb3559b6b079cd.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

But I hear people use their trucks just for commuting?

With that said I don't go flexing it around or crawling around. When I use 4 wheel drive I'm very easy on it and it's never "wheeled". The pic above is with a load on it and my 33's.
 


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