If you have an injector that bad then you should have a cylinder contribution code.

 

Yes the bolts that hold the injector together, (really small) I should have took a pic of them. The tech gave them to me in a baggie. I had a imbalence code that came and went for a while. I kep clearing it. I got lucky the bolt didnt make the it into the pump.

 

Okay thanks for clearing that up, sounds scary! lol

Starting to think the injectors not my problem, ill check codes again but last time i did i had nothing. I'm going to replace the driveshaft carrier bearing and go from there

 

hmm that would be scary...bolts that hold the injector together or bolts that hold it down? It did get studs/gaskets last summer, so the injectors would have been out... This problem sounds really unlikely however for some reason lol

 

I would stop with the injectors for a minute and take a look again at that carrier bearing. It can without a doubt cause a vibration that you will feel throughout the vehicle.
If the rubber isolator that holds in the carrier bearing is shot it will shake like hell under the right loads.

Take a good look at that first,and I would change out the u/joints too. My truck had a slight vibration in the driveline @55k miles and it was the carrier bearing rubber. Wound up changing all 3 u/joints and carrier brg for around $75.00 if I remember right.
I think that is where your problem is...........................

 

Ya this is the direction im going, going to do this first seeing as how its gotta be done anyway!

thanks !

 

I would just buy all 3 u/joints and bearing and put them in. You dont notice it over time starting to wear, after you get new stuff in there you are going to notice imediately how smooth it gets when your throttleing up away from stop signs.

Let me know how it works out. Mark.. PS Get American parts !!

 

Im betting Injector since you can change the condition with the throttle

I have never delt with a bad bearing so IDK if the accelerator pedal change position or say WOT will make the bearing smooth out

you dont have to go to ford to have injectors tested FYI although its easier at Ford

REPEAT INJECTOR DIAGNOSTIC TIPS
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/techni...orTechTips.pdf
COMPRESSION BUBBLE TEST
DTS Articles - Compression Bubble Test
BALLON TEST
DTS Articles - The Balloon Test
INJECTOR HARNESS TROUBLE SHOOT INFO
DTS Articles - 6.0L Injector Harness

basicaly you will pull the FICM and Fuel Pump fuse and watch the upper fuel filter housing for bubbles as someone cranks

 

If it shakes just as it enters into overdrive at about 50-60 mph. That is almost certianly injector related.

 

Yes Sir probably 80% of the time^^^^

read this IIRC guy had simillair issues see what you think of it in comparison sounds very close to what you have going on



chugging at 50 = bad injector
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10634066

 

I have had a company truck with a bad brg and it would shake when I throttled up, and it smoothed out if you didnt put too much of a load on it.

Granted it could be a injector or something else going on butI have felt a shakin truck from a driveline problem. Now if its a consistant shake that keeps time with rpms its gotta be a engine thing.

Now dont forget this is coming from a dumb pipe fitter

 

well here's the update guys not to prove anyone wrong just to help people in the future with similar symptoms.

dropped the drive shaft and attempted to replace u-joints myself but ive never done it before and without a press i was having a tough time. Didn't have any kind of puller for the hanger bearing either so i said frig it and brought the shafts to ford. 3 u-joints and a hanger bearing and my problem seems to be fixed. Will get a good test towing the toy hauler this weeknd. The rear-most u-joint was completely pooched!

thanks for the help!

 

Glad to hear it, relatively cheap fix too....

 

mine is showing the same symptoms right now. Just put in 8 new injectors, ficm checked out ok, been using after market filters and cap. the closer the mud flaps get to the ground (ie heavy load) the symptoms get dramatically worse. curious to know what it cost if you dont mind sharing.

thanks in advance

 

For starters go to Ford and buy the stock oil filter cap, oil filter can be purchaced at wal-mart or the Ford dealer. There are IPR issues and all kinds of problems linked to aftermarket filters that dont fit correctly in the engine. These guys go nuts bout it, do that by all means.
As far as the drive line goes: if your a mechanical guy with a hammer and a vise on a bench under $100.00 will cover 3 u/j and bearing. The bearing will practically fall off of shaft with a bit of heat from a turbo torch. Same when you put new brg assy on put some heat to inside of race to expand and slip back on drive line.

It's a half hour job and you might check u-tube for some video. Ford garage cost I dont know.