Is that your console? Tell us about it.

 

Was the MC a new unit or a rebuilt one?

I don't know if you still have the MC that was just installed but if you do, I would check to be sure there's no RPV (Residual Pressure Valve) in the primary port. There shouldn't be if the MC is designed for a disc/drum setup but, you never know how tight QC is with anything sold through the parts stores anymore. --just out of curiosity, I would check the secondary port for an RPV too. Most rebuilt/replacement MCs these days don't come with RPVs for the drum brake circuit(s) but occasionally, you'll find a replacement MC that does have them installed.

If the the MC isn't installed or, isn't plumbed up, it's easy to check for the presence of an RPV. Just take a 7/64" diameter drill bit and gently slide the shank end of it into the port openings of the MC. If the bit only goes in a short distance beyond the port seat and stops, there's an RPV in there. If the drill bit goes in a good distance past the port seat, no RPV is installed.

 

'Just finished replacing the MC and the lock up issue is gone. Yay.

The bad MC is a remanned unit... used your method above and both ports do not have an RPV... It must have mismatched internals or something.... in any case, we're moving on. Wooohoooo!

While it's in the garage, I'm gonna tend to some housekeeping... I'll check back later.

Btw, it's about 65 degrees and I'm wearing shorts and a plain white t-shirt.

 

Glad to hear that problem is resolved.

I don't use rebuilt MCs for the primary reason they have a high failure/malfunction rate and generally a short operational life-span. I've bought rebuilt MCs in years past but, I've never gotten much more than a year's use out of them before I was having to replace it again. This is why I don't use rebuilt MCs now.

I like doing disc brake conversion work and fabricating brake lines but, the worst part of a brake conversion, for me, is bleeding out the brakes. I'll gladly pay more for a brand new MC, that will likely last for several years, before I have to fool with it again.

With any MC, new or especially rebuilt, it's a good idea to remove the primary and secondary pistons from the MC body and clean the pistons and the piston bore. --just remove the large snap ring at the back of the MC and slide the pistons out.

MCs (even brand new ones) often have machining residue inside the bore (most of this stuff is rebuilt or newly manufactured in China). This gritty residue can easily damage the piston seals and the bore or otherwise impair the operation of the brakes.

I wipe the MC pistons down and wash the bore out with acetone before installing the MC. However, don't blow the parts off with compressed air. Any minute traces of oil (petroleum-based) coming through the air line from the compressor can get on the piston seals, swell them, and cause them to fail. One of the best things to clean the MC bore with are (ehem) tampons. --this is because they are lent-free.

Coat the pistons and bore of the MC with brake fluid and re-install the pistons and the snap ring before bench bleeding the master and installing it. This is a simple, preemptive, procedure that doesn't take much effort or time to complete but, can greatly increase the length of time the MC will operate, trouble-free.

 

Cool, I'm glad it was an easy fix!

I spent 3 hours pushing snow this morning.....I hate you.


j/k

 

'Not sure what you're referring to.....whatchutalkinabout Willis?

I would have gotten a new one but none were in AZO's system. I'll take you methodology into consideration the next time. Btw, the MC was under warranty so outlay was zero dollars... just the hassle. I'm really good at bleeding brakes solo!

Tampons? None in my house! I have never purchased feminine hygiene products....I refuse to... "PERIOD"!

Snow is something to play in... not to live in. I have never shoveled snow... EVER. Snow makes daily living so inconvenient.. I mean, my sis lives in PA and whines about being unable to get out of her driveway, power lines coming down because of ice, and high utility bills. A couple of weeks ago her husband suffered a compound ankle break... while shoveling snow out of the driveway.... he crawled about 25 yards back to the house before she became aware he needed help.




Clean up the greasy fingerprints, vacuumed, and then wiped down the interior multiple times with soapy water. I cut up what was left of the original floor liner and made a floor mat for the driver's side. Also straightened the steering wheel and installed a horn.

The fuel level gauge read empty... grounding the lead verified the gauge works 4.0. Used a long dowel and discovered the tank is half full. Apparently, it's a sunk float...oh well.

 

May have missed it but what are the specs on the wheels? Offset, backspacing and width? Am I right in thinking bump rear ends are a little narrower than dent ones? Close to ordering tires for mine and unfortunately even with 235/75 on the rear it's looking tight with the fender lip.

Plus my chosen wheels have IIRC a 1/4" more positive offset than what is on there now.

 

Wheels are Wheel Vintiques Series 62... 15x7s with 4-inch BS in front wearing 225/70-15. Rears are 15x8 with 4-inch BS wearing 275/60-15. Yes, Bumpsides have narrower rear ends.

I bet 15x10s with 4-inch BS can fit 295s.. there's about another 1.5 inches clearance btwn the wheel lip and the 275s.

 

I've been checking back with you on this build from time to time (once a week or so) and I don't think I missed it, but did you every publish a video of the truck? Start up, running, revving, drive by, etc?…. Glad you got the MC deal all worked out.

 

Running and revving, yes. Start up and drive-by no, not yet. The LBB still needs an alignment which I may tend to this coming Friday or Saturday.

Yesterday I went up to a friend's vineyard in Sonoma... he's got something like 12,000 vines. Yall from the east have to stop by sometime... it's kick. We shot the breeze, drank some vintages, plinked cans with air rifles, and grilled up a tri-tip dinner.

Today was catching up on the 65 Mustang and a lil work on the LBB. The fuel level gauge wasn't working so out came with sending unit.... the float is M.I.A... prolly sunk somewhere in the fuel tank. Oh well. I am literally using a dipstick in the mean time.

 

A friend of mine, who is from Santa Barbara, and I were both living in Leesburg, GA talking about BBQ and grillin' with some others and braggin' bout tri-tip and decided to show em whats what, went down to the Winn Dixie to go get some tri-tip and were greeted with
"HUH?"


The butcher manager had to call down to headquarters in Jax to find out what the cut was, and how much to charge


A couple of the guys had never seen any beef besides a steak or hamburger in a smoker before

 

I find that with a lot of foods. I moved from Florida to Vegas and very few know southern foods, much less anything about BBQ

 

Float separate is part number C0AZ9202B. My link is down with Ford now but as I recall it's still available from Ford but on backorder. Horne Ford in Nogales,Az. shows one on the ford locator (D2D). 520-281-1976. Tell them you are a buddy of Jeff's at Berge Ford and I told you to tell them "C minus 45".

 

Thanks Jeff!


I'm just gonna order a float through NPD since it's time to order....yes, Mach 1 Sport R upholstery, foams, and all the lil pieces to rebuild the '70 highbacks.


If the highbacks don't look or feel right, pull and swap the lo-backs outta my 68 Mustang. Choices are good.

 

Dang! I must have missed those links. Can you point me to them again please? Thanks in advance! Can't wait to hear the truck with that custom exhaust you worked so hard on.