I found a crack in my SD's coolant reservoir
#16
04-03-2012, 02:42 PM
I believe the material is polypropylene.
When I swapped mine, I took the online quote from another dealership and asked the local dealership parts guy to match it. He went about $5 more and said that was his best offer. I bought it there figuring $5 wasn't that big of a deal and I get it right there. Plus if there was a defect, I can return it or exchange it there.
When I swapped mine, I took the online quote from another dealership and asked the local dealership parts guy to match it. He went about $5 more and said that was his best offer. I bought it there figuring $5 wasn't that big of a deal and I get it right there. Plus if there was a defect, I can return it or exchange it there.
#17
04-03-2012, 06:34 PM
Guess I'm getting old. I'd rather invest my $$$ in retirement account than buying parts that can be easily repaired....
My tank feels like polyethylene (milk jug material) which is a very difficult polymer to get anything to adhere to.
Surprisingly, JB Weld DOES adhere. I've fixed a couple reservoirs this way, lasted many years, still holding when vehicles were sold.
Clean the surface VERY well and scuff with 180 grit sandpaper, clean again, lay on the JB. For even stronger repair, embed fiberglass cloth into the JB.
My tank feels like polyethylene (milk jug material) which is a very difficult polymer to get anything to adhere to.
Surprisingly, JB Weld DOES adhere. I've fixed a couple reservoirs this way, lasted many years, still holding when vehicles were sold.
Clean the surface VERY well and scuff with 180 grit sandpaper, clean again, lay on the JB. For even stronger repair, embed fiberglass cloth into the JB.
When it comes to plastic tank, that crack because of age -gluing one crack will only open another one soon after. New tanks are nice clear-white in color, while 10 years old tanks are dark brown. What do you think is happening here?
#18
04-03-2012, 11:59 PM
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#19
04-04-2012, 12:54 PM
#21
04-04-2012, 07:35 PM
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I currently have the same problem and have a coolant tank coming I ordered it from www.rockauto.com if it is not on the website now keep going back to it..they are the only place I found that had one I believe the part number is 603-413 and its a dorman part set me back $50 with shipping like I said its worth the wait for it because I too could not find it anywhere for a decent price
#22
04-04-2012, 07:52 PM
#25
04-05-2012, 09:01 AM
#27
04-05-2012, 11:24 AM
Using green coolant on older vehicles in the past I had to replace several radiators due the internal build up, that cut down heat exchange.
Now even in my SD I am using Mercedes coolant and noticed that while hauling -my fan comes less frequently eventually saving me good amount of fuel.
On my Mercedes when fan clutch froze 2 years ago, I removed the fan and drive without it for 2 years. So far the hottest I got was 101F and engine temperature moved up only about 15 degrees when I got stuck in traffic.
Now even in my SD I am using Mercedes coolant and noticed that while hauling -my fan comes less frequently eventually saving me good amount of fuel.
On my Mercedes when fan clutch froze 2 years ago, I removed the fan and drive without it for 2 years. So far the hottest I got was 101F and engine temperature moved up only about 15 degrees when I got stuck in traffic.
#28
04-05-2012, 02:17 PM
2 years is recommended. Pushing past 3 is recipe for trouble. I have many vehicles I've run 20+ years on it (changing at least every 3 years), and the cooling systems are still spotless.
I use low to no silicate BMW or Honda labeled EG for all aluminum engines, and Peak in the Ford.
#30
04-06-2012, 02:50 PM
Do you have a part number or description I can use to do some research? With as many vehicles as I maintain, 15 years would be sweet. Biggest challenge may be remembering to change it after that long!