Well I'll be! I didn't know how these bulbs actually made the HI/LO beams. I do now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJ0w08ZEhjI

 

If someone would have told me there was a headlight bulb that moved, I would call them crazy.
I don't have HID's but I learned something tonight.
Another great video.

 

huh interesting, are the wires already in place for these, our do we have to splice n dice them in... I have yet to try the grill removal project as the weather hasnt been warm enouph. so have no idea what is behind that beast..
Oh and what a honor to be the first to reply to an Epic vidio......
Damn beat by 4 minutes, thats what I get for getting another cup of coffee

 

whodathunkit!

Excellent video as always.

 

Thanks for sharing. Well, you learn something everyday unless you do nothing all day.

 

Funny.

Good point.

 

Epic. You rock.

 

Haha everyone. This has been bugging me and I figured it was worth a closer look.

The wires to enable the hi/lo are included when you order the hi/lo relay with the kit. If you don't specify this on your order, you'll get lo beams only.

 

I had figured this out a few days ago and determined my hi/Lo controller DDM sent me was defective. They went ahead and already shipped me a new one. Too bad I have to wait for it to come from China...again.

Thanks for the vid Epic, I had been wondering how much the bulb was suppose to retract and how fast.

 

there were threads saying the HID's didn't work well in the 2011/2012 headlights.
were you impressed with these ? I put the silverstar bulbs in, and they are better than stock, but not like the HID's I see in other vehicles.

 

Thats the cool thing about ths site. A couple of folks were talking crazy stuff about moving light bulbs and I just had to find out for myself. I was originally just going to put the camera on the headlight itself and record the high low switch. But then I remembered I had a spare bulb in the tool chest. Plugged in the little DC power supply and settled the issue right away. It was interesting to see that the little electromagnet rquires a full .69 amps to actuate. That thing probably gets pretty hot in and of itself when the high beams are left on for a long time.

 

OK, you sold me on it.
Looks like I need to place an order - just noticed that DDM is about a mile out of the way of my afternoon commute. Guess I'll drop by and pick the stuff up

 

Make sure to pick up a couple self taping screws for the install. I didn't see any nearby bolts to utilize as grounds for the wiring. Because of the motorized bulbs, each bulb has to be grounded to the frame of the truck. The wiring harness that comes with the HI/Lo controller just barely reaches both headlight assemblies, bc the truck is so wide. Oh, buy a couple zip ties as well. The zip ties will help you keep the wiring off the radiator when stringing the harness across the truck. Like I said, it's just barely long enough so you have to make a direct path with the wiring

 

Dang it!
I wish I would have known about the HID lights with the bright/dim feature. One of the projects I worked on last year was a battery operated steam engine headlight. I ended up using two HID bulbs and ballasts, one that was focused inside a large 2'+ silver plated copper parabolic reflector. The other HID bulb was positioned just ahead of the first bulb to give the light a dimmed affect. The FRA would not allow operation of the locomotive at night with its original kerosene lamp so it needed a little upgrade to meet FRA specs. I added a wireless remote so the light could be turned on and off from the cab with a key fob. The run time was ~4 hours running off the main battery and 1-1/2 hours from the secondary. The neat thing about the HID lights is that they will run off a wide range of input voltage, 8-18 volts. so I could get every bit of run time from the batteries with degradation of light output.






Look at the color of the light output, you can't get that using a lamp that burns whale blubber.

 

Sweet train, what is that train used for?