Ok Im going to try and follow those wire in that diagram ,, and see where 12 v is present ,,, Not very good at this but I going to learn one way or other ,,, no choice at this point ,, have to get this truck running !!!

 

Ok now when grounding this terminal at DLC , can I ground it to any point , there is a ground point right off the connector its self on fender side , and lets say this makes it kick in ,,,, then where is the proplem going to be from this point??? Or does this mean I am still going to have to trace it down (lol) ,,, ya killing me (lol) ,, have to laugh at something !!!! My spirits are down so much from this ,,, I need to laugh at some thing ,,,,, Ok seriously ,,,, Going to try that , now!

 

Start by swapping 2 of the relays in the battery junction box. The second one is the fuel pump you know. Then check for voltage on both sides of the inertia switch. (Have you tripped & reset it? Smack it lightly with the handle of a screwdriver or something to trip it & reset it) then you'll have to pull the panel back off to check the back of the selector switch. From that point if you still haven't located the "no power' point you'll have to check the wiring to the back.

I'm hoping palletcutter and subford will have some helpful input here ..............

Yeah, just jump it to a good clean bare ground.

 

You said you checked ALL of the fuses, right. Even the PCM fuse?

 

Ok will do !!!! This is certainly a learning experience ,,, Ok ,, get ready for this!!!! NOW the battery is down,, sooo,,, going to have to run to parts store to have it charged back up , when it rains it pours ,, Believer in that Now!!! let you know what happens

 

Well, I'll certainly give you an "A" for effort!
I'm a bit rusty on these models since it's been about 6 years since I had one.

 

yes and light on tester came on all of them , at both points on fuses ,,, ,, now the only thing I did was buy one new relay , and switched them around , now when battery was good ,, ,, now its really low!!!!! Said this is a Domino effect on me here !!!! So bear with me !

 

Ok in the process of tracing the voltage to pump ,, ran into a slight problem on clock spring !!! Went to remove air bag from steering wheel , and seems there are four (appear to be star drive ) because you can not get your head behind to actually see them , on the back side of the steering wheel and seem to be (think ) holding air bag compartment . Do I need a (torque socket to remove these?????? Tried to pull cover off when realized these seem to be holding it in . According to video on how to replace clock spring ,, did not show this !!!!!!!!! A regular deep well socket does not work!!!! So assuming this requires a Torque socket ,or star drive socket ,, what ever you call it ,,,,,,,,, those things cost about 23.00 bucks for a set !!! My question is IS this what I need to get air bag out so I can get steering wheel off , so I can get to clock spring ?????

 

Never mind ,,, Sorry about that ,,, think I'm exhausted and need to regroup here for a minute ,,,,,, just answered my own question when I went to review the video again and He said what I need ,,, Disregard ,, Sorry !

 

Well ncranchero you have been a real big help , to me on here ,, I really appreciate more than you will ever know !!! Well got battery back today , WHEW,,,Glad it was Ok ,,,, did take the clock spring out while waiting on battery ,,,, and ,, hope your sitting down ,,,,,, because this blew my mind on this one ,, Watched the video ,on how to change it out ,,, went and followed the steps ,, and it wasn't bad to do at all ,,, except one little thing ,,, the new one had that plastic do dad on top ,, I thought it was there for shipping purposes ,,,,, so I got to reading the directions that were printed on it ,,, it said ,,,,,,,,,, wind in direction of arrow till tight ,, then turn in reverse three and a half turns back ,, then align slot ,,, well I did ,, because no one told me , when I purchased it that it was preset ,,,, everything went great and I have a HORN now ,,, so I turned ignition key to on , thinking this beeping would be gone, NOT,,,,,,,,,Only now I have instead of a code 32----- a code 51,,,, and the blasted peeping is still there!!!!!!! What did I do wrong ,,, Now back to the pump situation ,, tried to jumper the DLC at fuel end and relays clicked and still a code 542 ,,, even tapped the interia , to trip , then reset , and still problem ,,, checked the fuel selector on (while plugged in still) there are six all together the two middle ones show power , with test light , the two top , two bottom ,, have nothing at all ,, the switch is set fr front tank ,,,,, and the fuel gage is showing just a little under half a tank ( know that is correct when I parked it ) if you try the rear tank , it goes way past full ,, so Know that one is bad for sure ( malfunctioning ) at the dash fuel gage . in the switch . And after all this still no power kicking pump ,, It just got dark here so had to come in ,, working under a carport ( apartment wife and I live in ) So what you think now ,,, know I still have to find where the power seems to end at ,, still working on that ,, but after putting that clock spring in and it doing that ,, just blew me away ,, that is almost 60.00 bucks ,, and the beeping did not go away !!!!!

 

Speicher ,, what is this code 51 from dash air bag light ???? was a 32 after changing clock spring ,,, beeping still there and light flashing the 51 code ,, any thoughts here????

 

Sorry been a little out of pocket, looks as though you've been getting plenty of good advise. ncranchero almost has you there. If you only have power at two points at the fuel selector switch, it appears the switch is bad. Remove the connector from the switch and jumper the Red/Yellow to Brown/White circuit for the rear tank or the Red/Yellow to the Red circuit for the front tank. Keep in mind you have to either cycle the key repeatly [PCM only runs the pump for approximately 5 seconds after keying to the run position], or put your ground jumper back in the self test connector as you have done to make it run continously. Make sure all other connectors are reinstalled, fuel pump, inertia switch, etc. Hopefully you will have power to pump this time. Make sure you do not power into the other three circuits on the other side of the switch, they should be smaller gauge wire for the gauge circuits. The 542 code you recieved is the fuel pump monitor circuit. As far as the beeping, are you still recieving 5 sets of 5 beeps? Code 51 is generated when the air bag module sees a intermittent short to ground in one of the deployment circuits. When this occurs the module blows the internal thermal fuse inside the module. Unfortunately you cannot repair or replace the fuse it is intenal to the module. Their are alot of short falls to the early systems, this being one, the other it can only show one code at a time. It only displays the next code after you have eliminated the one prior to it. Only resolve for code 51 that I'm aware of is to replace the module, however you need to make sure you have repaired the short first. At this point you need to make sure this is the module generating the beep. The air bag module should be mounted to the right of the column, it mounts on a dash bracket, slides onto a bracket and locks in place. Their are two 12 pin connectors to the module, disconnect the battery for a minimum of two minutes, remove the connectors from the module reconnect the battery and see if this eliminates the beeping. The modules I have replaced in the past have been a blue housing as I recall. Hopefully that will help you out.

 

Thank you for your response ,, Going to give that a try and see what happens ,,,, PLEASE tell me I did not mess up when I winded that clock spring when I just bought it!!! Did not know at the time it was preset ,,,I thought I was doing right thing , when I read the face of the lock spring ,,and removed the plastic piece holding and did just that ! That doesn't have anything to do wit it does it???

 

Speicher ,,, not meaning to bother you in any way ,,, this module you are talking about ,, does it have a white connector and a black connector going to it?? this all I see a black box with a circuit board inside it , in which these connector's are going to ,,, that is where the beeping is coming from ,,,,,, I have been thinking this is the pcm for this truck ! Have I got it wrong ??? Oh and one other quest. This truck has dual tanks ,,, is there another pump that runs the fuel pump on the frame with a connector to it ??? talking other than the two electric fuel pumps in tank's ??? Because I can not find one , other than a fuel filter , and the brake system , along with wiring running to rear of truck ??? I believe it is called a high volume pump ,, did 1994 Ford F150 's XL have one ????

 

A 94 model only had two pumps, one in each tank. Not sure of the connector colors, their should be 12 terminal cavities each, manual does not specify color of connectors. If you disconnect the battery and connectors, the indicator should glow steady if you have the proper module. Anything on bypassing the fuel selector switch?