My truck died while idling no previous starting or running issues. It will not start I replace ig coil, cap, rotor, plugs, main relay and fuel pump my plug wires are less than a year old I put a plug in the wire that connects to ig coil and there is no spark present any ideas?? I'm 1500 miles away from home need to get it going my next guess is the pick up in the dist right track or no?

 

I suspect the ignition module on the side of the distributor. With the right SPECIAL TOOL you should be able to remove the module without pulling the distributor. Beings you have a complete won't start condition, the module should be able to be effectively tested. It's very common for the module to fail on these model Ford engines.

 

Some good info in here: SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure

 

Would this module failing cause the truck to shut off while running? Thanks for the tip and quick reply

 

It certainly would.

 

Do I need to take it off of the ddist or can I just get a new one and plug it in?

 

That would be dangerous to do for any length of time. The distributor housing functions as a heat sink. For a short test you could plug in the new one to see if you get spark.

If you would reference the link I sent earlier you would have a good idea if the PIP or the TFI was at fault. Aftermarket TFI modules tend to not be the most robust in the world. It is recommended to get a Motorcraft brand for best results. Of course, they are the MOST expensive.

Whenever you replace or remove a TFI you will need to make sure the back side of it has a good coating of thermal compound. Not to be confused with dielectric grease. Two different animals.

 

You need to take it off the distributor. There are 6 or 8 flat prongs that plug in under the distributor. After you remove the two mounting screws with the special tool, pull down on the module to remove it. Be sure to put the special heat sink grease on the flat spot behind the new module.

 

Sounds good just grabbed it so I'll give it a shot and post if it works or not cost $60

 

No go that unbeleivable it'll be a brand new truck soon or burned

 

I 've heard there might be a way to jump it using a wire from battery to ig coil anyone know anything about that? Any ideas would be apreciated should I try the pick up in dist?

 

Invest in a cheap DVM. It would have paid for itself already. SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure

You can use the same DVM to verify you have +12VDC on the positive side of the coil. There should be a small metal capacitor tied to that supply line, mounted on or near the coil. I have seen it short out internally and drag down the supply voltage. Try unhooking it.

 

I would turn the ignition switch on and check to see if you have power to the small wires on the coil. If you unhook the wires from the coil to test, you will only have power to one wire. Don't forget to turn the ignition switch on. If you have power to the coil, I would pull the distributor out. Mark or note the position of the rotor and also the position of the distributor body in relation to something. A good shop should be able to test the whole distributor for firing. Hopefully install a new ignition pickup(stator) so you won't have to go with an infamously bad rebuilt distributor.

 

I have tested for power to the coil I have the 12v looks like its either going to the shop or spend the 30 on a pick up also just found my neg battery cable was rotted through figured it was shorting out so spliced it still nothing I'll try unhooking that capaciter and see what happens thabks for the tips would like to sort this out for myself and others seems like a pretty standard problem

 

Yes it is a very common problem that can be diagnose with minimal tools. That is why I keep hammering you to diagnose the problem with the proper tools, cheaper than the TFI you purchased, and quit throwing parts at.

We are just trying to help you. You can choose to take our advice or proceed however you like