Don't thank me, as these guys straightened me out on your model years fuel system. IDK on the tank you're talking about. Is this a saddle tank?

I'm with you on the flatbed though. My truck, as you see in the sig, is just a F150 short bed but I've had the hankerin' for another flat bed ever since I sold my '53 F250 back in the early '70's. I have the truck, I have the bed, now all I need is time to put them all together.

I managed to get a couple hours to get the pickup bed off this week.



This was my 100% original '53

 

Yes you can.


Yes it can.


Will not work an is not needed for a gravity feed system above the frame pump.


Yes, your are OK.


The universal 6-line valve will not work unless you do a lot of rewiring.

You would need to rewire to something like the wiring diagram below and replace the selector switch and add a relay. That universal 6-line valve is for Diesel trucks and 460 4V RV's and trucks.

Rewiring to the universal 6-line valve for 1985-1989 gas trucks with FI and EEC-IV systems:


/

 

Love the pictures! that '53 is smokin'...I had a 50 (F-1) also flatbed...previous divorce forced sale.As I get older,flatbeds and side boxes fit my arthritis lots better when it comes to grabbin tools...Yes,you've been busy this weekend-your shortbed will look good.I have always preferred flatbeds when it comes to work trucks.If you can imagine how stumped I was,don't be so humble-all the guys who write in deserve appreciation...The karma circle goes like this-I fix truck,wife saves money,truck used to fix cabin,wife happy. Will probably post again when I get tripped up on this project.By the way,when I said "6-line" ,I meant 6-port,my selector is the mechanical pressure type. Yes,it's the saddle type tank,I plan on turning the flat side of the bracket that hangs on the frame downward and the straps over the top...Palletcutter

 

Yeah, I'd give my right ...... uh, toe to have that '53 back. The paint inside the cab, dash floors, doors, etc were as nice as it was when new. That's an original Ford script flatbed with original wood. I had the sideboards just preferred it without them. Flathead 239 V8 purred like a kitten and would idle down and lope like a Harley! Humble? Nah I just don't claim to know everything and quick to admit I'm wrong. I enjoy helping when I can and don't have anything to prove. I'll be watching your flatbed build. What kind of bed did you end up with, factory or custom built? Mine is a home built but it's not too bad, especially for the $200 I gave for it. I'll have to shorten it since I ended up with a short bed truck. I have it sitting on a parts truck now and it just doesn't look right at 8'. it's a toy anyway not a worker.



Too long to replace a shot bed.



I'll be looking for your photos!

 

Ha! We should be trading! I have to lenghten mine! It's 73" long by 78' wide...would probably fit your perfect! All I have now is the top shell,it's the 10 or 12 guage steel with an angle down to the middle in the rear and two holes for recessed tail lights.I have to buy some channel for the subframe.I have an old Lincoln stick welder,but I'm decent with it.The strut supports from the subframe are stamped steel "wings" from under a double-wide mobile home frame.They're VERY strong and the bends go all the way to the narrow end,so you can cut them to the length you need.At two plus feet long,they angle from 10 inches on one end out to the tip,so they look like a long triangle.I would have to learn how to down load pics.Been putting it off for years.Am going to parts store today for new fuel line clamps,I'm going to tie in the lines from the rear tank by putting a fuel filter where the bad valve is.At least I'll have one tank for awhile. Palletcutter

 

Hi from Palletcutter in the mountains of Arizona...My '89 was having tank problems,and many of you shared to help me,so here's what I learned...if you have a 2 tank MECHANICAL selector valve,it works on pressure.When you switch on your tank,front or rear,the in-tank pump(14-17#'s)moves the o-ring shaft to supply fuel from the chosen tank.When this selector goes out,Ford wants LOTS of money.(here it's $325)The only other I've seen (cheaper) is universal,and still $100+.Without losing the quick-connect ends,two fuel filters will work.I thought of cutting the ends off to put a pipe nipple in,but the line is old,stiff,and brittle to work with.Not to mention the distance may shorten.Ford,and most parts houses,want you to buy a fuel line assembly to get the quick connect ends,or at least they are $7-$10...EACH.so don't cut them off..The large line is the supply line to the high pressure fuel pump-it takes an inline fuel filter with 3/8" ends-BOTH ends...the return line,(point the filter arrow towards the tanks)is the small one-5/16"...both ends.Parts stores computers do NOT always show the size of the ends coming out the filters-BUT,the old diagram books do,thank goodness for paper and ink!...NCRANCHERO sent me a diagram,it's great.The system goes from the fuel pump in each tank,to the selector valve,to the high pressure pump(needed for fuel injection),an inline filter against the frame is next,and then a pressure sensor,injectors,and a regulator -which also returns the unused portion of fuel from the injector throttle body.Some years have a Fuel Delivery Module,1989 doesn't.The only check valve is in the high pressure pump.You would think turning on the key and switching the button in the cab would tell you what line is which By spraying out gas,right? Nope.The key on only signals a relay,and your pump only sees electricity for a second.Run the engine,and the in tank pump runs continuous.Anyway,you can't run the engine,cuz the lines are off,remember?Anyway,the in tank pump doesn't have a check valve flowing to the engine,so dropping the line into a gas can will tell you which line is feed(in case you can't tell the 3/8" from the 5/16")It WILL gravity feed if there's enough fuel in the tank.I think the feed filter was Carquest#86464,and the return fuel filter is Napa #33097...So,for the price of two fuel filters,you can run on one tank until you can afford or figure out a different solution.You may want to seal the unused lines with baggies and duct tape to keep the dirt out,and the best part is you haven't lost any of the stock lines,connectors or parts except the bad selector valve...Palletcutter

 

hey guys was hoping u could help me out heres the prob.I just finished putting in a new rear tank with sending unit and lines 2 the selector valve. Got it all put in and the truck started on the back tank and ran 4 about 3 to 4 min then started to spit and sputter then died????? Now it will not start unless u switch back 2 the front tank. And i just put in a new selector valve last summer but have not used the back tank since. ANY IDEAS??????

 

palletcutter and subford are the go to guys on these models. I just stumble along!

 

On my '86, I replaced the Ford non electric selector valve with an electric valve. Here are the details with some basic fuel system troubleshooting and diagrams. Applies mostly to 85-89 EFI engines

http://75.95.181.105:86/F150/Dual_Tank_Selector.html

 

Talk about doing it the hard way. Also some bad information in that link. The photo off the internet in the link was one of my photos.

Putting the electric valve on should not need any changes to the fuel lines. The ones that you remove from the old selector valve should plug right on to the new electric valve.
The new electric valve should be the same one that the Diesel trucks use and I do not know if the valve in the link would be fuel lines plug and play.

Yes you would have to do a little rewiring and replace the selector switch on the dash as you would have to wire it like a diesel truck with wires to the fuel tank pumps.
The wiring would like the wiring in post #17 above.

 

Bad pump in the rear tank, bad selector switch on the dash or wiring.

 

If it's an 89-you should have a mechanica;l pressure selector valve,see thread page 1,post #4...that's your fuel system,although klricks and subford are right,you CAN put in an electric selector,but I didn't read that in your post.Anyway,sounds like the fuel pump.What's the fuel guage doing? Did you wire it backwards between fuel pump and sending unit? Do you have electric back to the tank? Contrary to popular belief,fuel pumps don't always go out "all at once',they can(and do)act up and go out slowly. The in-tank pump costs about $38 at most parts stores.AND it can gravity feed fuel down into the line,hence your 3-4 minutes running time.Sitting and not being used(your rear tank) is really a troublemaker for all vehicles.I started out on my '89 "mechanicing for dummies"-ME!,so all my info was gathered the hard way,in the dirt and underneath! The tank pumps put out 14 to 17#'s,the high pressure pump is along the frame if you have fuel injection,it's long like a coil and has two wires going to it. Palletcutter

 

My wiring is very similar to your diagram.
The switches are different but function the same . Yours has the jumpers internal to the switch, My switch diagram has external jumper wires but electrically function the same. I did it that way to be able to use the existing OEM dash switch.

The diagram also shows a fuel pump relay that my truck does not have.

The wiring to the valve connector looks to be the same pin function but the connector shape is different.

As I remember the fuel line connections did not even come close to accepting the Ford quick connects.

The valve I have is sold as generic for all makes with dual tank systems. It may be that the same company, Pollak, makes the Ford part as well? So maybe an actual Ford part would fit without modifications to the fuel lines?

If you don't want me to use your picture I will pull it.

 

klricks,

Keep the photo just change the caption under it. That is one of the photos I did not put my email address in or it has been removed.

 

All good info-and my day turned out great,the "economic' shortcut I suggested(one tank ) using two fuel filters to replace my bad selector valve-worked-GREAT. No drips,no leaks,no errors...clicked the key a few times to bring up the fuel pressure and it ran great. A little turbulence working the air out of the system,nothing a heavy foot could not cure.My problem isn't lack of tools,or know how,it's lack of MONEY.All I gotta say is if you're a Ford truck man,this is one incredible website.! Thanks,all...ps...I must have done something wrong subscribing,it doesn't show my e-mail address or town,which I put both in,but it's not showing them....Palletcutter...myknlin@hughes.net...Dolan Springs,Arizona