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  #121  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:27 PM
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I also tore apart the clutch pressure plate and cleaned and painted it. Did you know when you remove those three bolts, you release a lot of pressure. It is then very hard to get all those spring pressed back together.
So, we put it on an old milk can and used C-clamps. That worked very well.
Click the image to open in full size.

Oh, I also took the clutch pressure plate in. Larry (My uncles long time employee) inspected it and said it should be good to go back in the truck. That saves me a bunch of money.
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1955 F-250 239 Y-Block
Y-Block Restoration Thread
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  #122  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:28 PM
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Don't know how, but I missed that first run up after 40 years video. Congratulations. Are we having fun yet?
Having fun doesn't describe it. I have watched my videos a ton of times. I can't wait to get the radiator installed and get the engine broken in a little and running smoother.
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1955 F-250 239 Y-Block
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  #123  
Old 12-09-2012, 07:46 AM
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I had a pretty good day yesterday. I got the clutch installed.
Here is the clutch pressure plate, I was worried about the way the clutch plate should go, but it only goes one way.
Click the image to open in full size.

I removed the trunnion from the clutch release lever and installed it on the bell housing:
Click the image to open in full size.
Then added the clutch release lever:
Click the image to open in full size.

Then I bolted it all up. I don't have a clutch alignment tool (O'Reilly didn't have one the right size, and that's the only place in my town.) So I figure if I can't find one local, I can just do it the hard way. I'm able to work the clutch, so it shouldn't be too hard since the cab isn't completely in the way.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #124  
Old 12-09-2012, 07:51 AM
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When I removed the bell housing, I left the starter on. It did make it more of a hassle taking it on and off, but when I put the starter on I stripped the top bolt. That bolt is a real pain to get to when it's on the engine. So I got a new bolt and put it on with the bell housing off. That worked slick. So it was worth the extra effort to leave the starter on.

Now about the transmission. Is it OK to have it on just bolted to the bell housing? I don't see any rear support except for the drive shaft. I can always put a jack stand under it to offer more support for the back side of the transmission. What do you guys think?
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  #125  
Old 12-09-2012, 08:20 AM
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Now about the transmission. Is it OK to have it on just bolted to the bell housing? I don't see any rear support except for the drive shaft. I can always put a jack stand under it to offer more support for the back side of the transmission. What do you guys think?
The support is the rear cross member. The transmission is happy to just hang on the bell housing. It will be easier to mount the tranny, align the main drive into the clutch while out of the chassis. I may get arguments here. The driveshaft offers no support. How are your rear rubber mounts?
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  #126  
Old 12-09-2012, 09:49 AM
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I got all new motor and transmission mounts. I like using the old stuff, but the mounts are critical, so new are in.

You are probably right about doing it outside of the chassis. Since I don't have the body on the chassis, I will probably try to put the transmission on there. Although, I'm thinking I could lower the engine to where the transmission is sitting right now.....I will have to ponder that...It will be next weekend at the earliest...
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  #127  
Old 12-09-2012, 10:08 AM
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I don't know if the 55 BH has the inspection window like earlier ones, but if it does, you can leave the clutch PP bolts as loose as practical, stab the trans in, then tighten them thru the hole. It would be easier with the engine in the frame and moving the trans into it. With the PP loose, you can shift the disc around into alignment. It takes time rotating the engine and tightening a little at a time, tho.

I'm surprised the alignment tool isn't available, it's a real common one.
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  #128  
Old 12-09-2012, 10:19 AM
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I don't know if the 55 BH has the inspection window like earlier ones, but if it does, you can leave the clutch PP bolts as loose as practical, stab the trans in, then tighten them thru the hole. It would be easier with the engine in the frame and moving the trans into it. With the PP loose, you can shift the disc around into alignment. It takes time rotating the engine and tightening a little at a time, tho.

I'm surprised the alignment tool isn't available, it's a real common one.
I was a little surprised too. There are several auto parts stores in the town I work in, so I will check there this week.

I've also got the bottom bell housing cover off. It's pretty easy to get to the PP bolts from there.

I briefly looked in my shop manual for torque specifications on the PP bolts and didn't find them. Does anyone know off hand?
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  #129  
Old 12-09-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
I don't know if the 55 BH has the inspection window like earlier ones, but if it does, you can leave the clutch PP bolts as loose as practical, stab the trans in, then tighten them thru the hole. It would be easier with the engine in the frame and moving the trans into it. With the PP loose, you can shift the disc around into alignment. It takes time rotating the engine and tightening a little at a time, tho.

I'm surprised the alignment tool isn't available, it's a real common one.
Joe's truck should have the sheet metal bottom, flywheel cover, that drops off the clutch housing so he has lots of flexibility there to position the clutch during assembly.

BTW, Joe, I have used various sockets assembled in different configurations for a "make shift" alignment tool.

Pressure plate bolts get torqued to 17-20 ft lbs. I like blue lock tite on the bolts.
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Last edited by raytasch; 12-09-2012 at 10:34 AM. Reason: torque added
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  #130  
Old 12-09-2012, 02:05 PM
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BTW, Joe, I have used various sockets assembled in different configurations for a "make shift" alignment tool.

Pressure plate bolts get torqued to 17-20 ft lbs. I like blue lock tite on the bolts.
Thanks Ray. I think I will try out the socket make shift tool...even if I buy a "real" one.

Also, thanks for the torque specs.
I think grocery shopping and house cleaning is on my list for this afternoon.....shoot...
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  #131  
Old 01-01-2013, 06:02 PM
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I'm going through my checklist to put the transmission on. I think I will just pull the engine. The cab sitting on the frame, but it's still in the way a bit, so it will be easier to just pull the engine.

I'm looking at my transmission bolts and wonder what the purpose of the two that are threaded on both ends. Why not have 4 standard bolts??? Also should they go in any special spot?? I'm thinking the top two holes...I'm not sure if I have a picture that shows that.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #132  
Old 01-01-2013, 06:08 PM
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I dug through my pictures and found that it is the top two bolts on the transmission to the bell housing. What's up with that?
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  #133  
Old 01-01-2013, 08:48 PM
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I
I'm looking at my transmission bolts and wonder what the purpose of the two that are threaded on both ends. Why not have 4 standard bolts??? Also should they go in any special spot?? I'm thinking the top two holes...I'm not sure if I have a picture that shows that.
Click the image to open in full size.
Pull the nuts and use the studs as alignment studs, somewhere to hang the transmission as you position it. I can't think of any reason why they must go in a specific location.
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1949 F-4 Built to drive--script bed.
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  #134  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:40 AM
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Usually they use studs like that where they are hanging a wiring harness on the stud. For instance, the battery cable going to the starter, to keep it away from exhaust, or to hang the parking brake cable, or the speedo cable. Are the nuts integral to the stud, or loose on it?
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  #135  
Old 01-02-2013, 07:59 PM
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Usually they use studs like that where they are hanging a wiring harness on the stud. For instance, the battery cable going to the starter, to keep it away from exhaust, or to hang the parking brake cable, or the speedo cable. Are the nuts integral to the stud, or loose on it?
That could be, I don't recall anything attached to either though.

The nuts are loose on the studs.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:59 PM
 
 
 
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