55 239 Y-Block Restoration Thread
#121
I also tore apart the clutch pressure plate and cleaned and painted it. Did you know when you remove those three bolts, you release a lot of pressure. It is then very hard to get all those spring pressed back together.
So, we put it on an old milk can and used C-clamps. That worked very well.
Oh, I also took the clutch pressure plate in. Larry (My uncles long time employee) inspected it and said it should be good to go back in the truck. That saves me a bunch of money.
So, we put it on an old milk can and used C-clamps. That worked very well.
Oh, I also took the clutch pressure plate in. Larry (My uncles long time employee) inspected it and said it should be good to go back in the truck. That saves me a bunch of money.
#123
I had a pretty good day yesterday. I got the clutch installed.
Here is the clutch pressure plate, I was worried about the way the clutch plate should go, but it only goes one way.
I removed the trunnion from the clutch release lever and installed it on the bell housing:
Then added the clutch release lever:
Then I bolted it all up. I don't have a clutch alignment tool (O'Reilly didn't have one the right size, and that's the only place in my town.) So I figure if I can't find one local, I can just do it the hard way. I'm able to work the clutch, so it shouldn't be too hard since the cab isn't completely in the way.
Here is the clutch pressure plate, I was worried about the way the clutch plate should go, but it only goes one way.
I removed the trunnion from the clutch release lever and installed it on the bell housing:
Then added the clutch release lever:
Then I bolted it all up. I don't have a clutch alignment tool (O'Reilly didn't have one the right size, and that's the only place in my town.) So I figure if I can't find one local, I can just do it the hard way. I'm able to work the clutch, so it shouldn't be too hard since the cab isn't completely in the way.
#124
When I removed the bell housing, I left the starter on. It did make it more of a hassle taking it on and off, but when I put the starter on I stripped the top bolt. That bolt is a real pain to get to when it's on the engine. So I got a new bolt and put it on with the bell housing off. That worked slick. So it was worth the extra effort to leave the starter on.
Now about the transmission. Is it OK to have it on just bolted to the bell housing? I don't see any rear support except for the drive shaft. I can always put a jack stand under it to offer more support for the back side of the transmission. What do you guys think?
Now about the transmission. Is it OK to have it on just bolted to the bell housing? I don't see any rear support except for the drive shaft. I can always put a jack stand under it to offer more support for the back side of the transmission. What do you guys think?
#125
The support is the rear cross member. The transmission is happy to just hang on the bell housing. It will be easier to mount the tranny, align the main drive into the clutch while out of the chassis. I may get arguments here. The driveshaft offers no support. How are your rear rubber mounts?
#126
I got all new motor and transmission mounts. I like using the old stuff, but the mounts are critical, so new are in.
You are probably right about doing it outside of the chassis. Since I don't have the body on the chassis, I will probably try to put the transmission on there. Although, I'm thinking I could lower the engine to where the transmission is sitting right now.....I will have to ponder that...It will be next weekend at the earliest...
You are probably right about doing it outside of the chassis. Since I don't have the body on the chassis, I will probably try to put the transmission on there. Although, I'm thinking I could lower the engine to where the transmission is sitting right now.....I will have to ponder that...It will be next weekend at the earliest...
#127
I don't know if the 55 BH has the inspection window like earlier ones, but if it does, you can leave the clutch PP bolts as loose as practical, stab the trans in, then tighten them thru the hole. It would be easier with the engine in the frame and moving the trans into it. With the PP loose, you can shift the disc around into alignment. It takes time rotating the engine and tightening a little at a time, tho.
I'm surprised the alignment tool isn't available, it's a real common one.
I'm surprised the alignment tool isn't available, it's a real common one.
#128
I don't know if the 55 BH has the inspection window like earlier ones, but if it does, you can leave the clutch PP bolts as loose as practical, stab the trans in, then tighten them thru the hole. It would be easier with the engine in the frame and moving the trans into it. With the PP loose, you can shift the disc around into alignment. It takes time rotating the engine and tightening a little at a time, tho.
I'm surprised the alignment tool isn't available, it's a real common one.
I'm surprised the alignment tool isn't available, it's a real common one.
I've also got the bottom bell housing cover off. It's pretty easy to get to the PP bolts from there.
I briefly looked in my shop manual for torque specifications on the PP bolts and didn't find them. Does anyone know off hand?
#129
I don't know if the 55 BH has the inspection window like earlier ones, but if it does, you can leave the clutch PP bolts as loose as practical, stab the trans in, then tighten them thru the hole. It would be easier with the engine in the frame and moving the trans into it. With the PP loose, you can shift the disc around into alignment. It takes time rotating the engine and tightening a little at a time, tho.
I'm surprised the alignment tool isn't available, it's a real common one.
I'm surprised the alignment tool isn't available, it's a real common one.
BTW, Joe, I have used various sockets assembled in different configurations for a "make shift" alignment tool.
Pressure plate bolts get torqued to 17-20 ft lbs. I like blue lock tite on the bolts.
Last edited by raytasch; 12-09-2012 at 10:34 AM. Reason: torque added
#130
Also, thanks for the torque specs.
I think grocery shopping and house cleaning is on my list for this afternoon.....shoot...
#131
I'm going through my checklist to put the transmission on. I think I will just pull the engine. The cab sitting on the frame, but it's still in the way a bit, so it will be easier to just pull the engine.
I'm looking at my transmission bolts and wonder what the purpose of the two that are threaded on both ends. Why not have 4 standard bolts??? Also should they go in any special spot?? I'm thinking the top two holes...I'm not sure if I have a picture that shows that.
I'm looking at my transmission bolts and wonder what the purpose of the two that are threaded on both ends. Why not have 4 standard bolts??? Also should they go in any special spot?? I'm thinking the top two holes...I'm not sure if I have a picture that shows that.
#134
#135
Usually they use studs like that where they are hanging a wiring harness on the stud. For instance, the battery cable going to the starter, to keep it away from exhaust, or to hang the parking brake cable, or the speedo cable. Are the nuts integral to the stud, or loose on it?
The nuts are loose on the studs.