I though about that I disconnected it and touched it to the hot side of the solonoid, it made a tiny spark and when I pulled if off the emergency start solenoil clicked, not sure what that means

here is what I just did I disconnected the two wire on the hot side of the solonoid then turned the headlights on to which one lite them up. one did and the other must be the feed to the starter switch. it is a soft black wire connected with a butt splice to a yellow wire

it is raining now so I have to wait a few minutes I am gonna scape away some insulation on the yellow next to the splice and connect the black back to the solonoid and then see if juice passes thru the black wire or not

 

Rain stopped, juice is passing thru. Te yellow wire disappars into a ge bundle and disappears behind the radiator, on the opposite side of the radiator is two large bundles of wires and they both go into the firewall behind the dash with dozens of other wires. The PO of this RV was not very neat with anything he did, his attitude must have been if it works leave it alone

Under the dash I found a 30 amp fuse by itself, wonder what that could be for????? I checked it, not blown

 

I believe the yellow is the fusible link I was talking about, make sure it wont stretch when pulled on.

 

How long would that wire be, I ask becuase it goes into a bundle of split tubing and inside they are all wrapped in electrical tape

How do you post pictures here???

 

The fusible link is only 6" long or so.

 

Easiest way to post pics is to start a photobucket account (free), post them there, then copy the URL from there and paste it here. I had a link to a lot better explanation but I cant find it now.

 

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...olonoid001.jpg

 

The ignition switch has to be bolted to the steering column, it should have a steel rod running down the steering column that sticks inside the switch to move the inner parts when you turn the ignition key. It must be adjusted properly. Easy to do, just make sure you can turn the key to every position when you finally tighten it down.

If you have a Ford solenoid bolted to the firewall, do you have 2 prongs for 2 small wires? If you do it is possible that you have them switched. If they are switched that will cause your problem.

 

I put it on here for ya, I right clicked on the web address of yoour pic, then clicked "copy". Then I selected "go advanced" where you post your responce to the thread, click the icon for insert image, right click in the box that opens up and paste the address of the picture.. simple huh

 

I do not have a go advanced button

 

On my screen its under the box you type your message in to reply to the thread.

 

Fuse Links:


/

 

Yea got it to go, turns out is was me that screwed it up, changed a few wires around at the solenoid and suddenly, IT LIVES,,,

is there a proceedure for adjusting that new ignition switch, it can slide up and down almost an inch on it's mounting bolts, It was starting fine, I moved the rv around in the yard and now the power comes on but the key does not send juice down to to trip the start solenoid.

 

When you purchase a new ignition switch there is a locking pin
that keeps the position of the ignition switch in Lock.

This picture shows the slot/hole the pin would have been in.



There are five different positions.

Accessories
Lock
Off
Run
Start (Spring loaded)

Disconnect the negative battery terminal so the engine can't
start.

Remove the ignition key so the ignition key is in the Lock
position.

Install the ignition switch and position the switch so the actuator
rod fits into the hole in the ignition switch. There is some play
so center the rod in the hole and tighten the hold down nuts.

Verify you have all the positions.

Or if you've pulled the locking pin and need to set the ignition
switch so it's in the Lock position take a small screwdriver
and insert it into the slot where the actuator rod goes.

Manually by using the screwdriver slide/move the
switch to the Lock position. You should be able to feel
the different detent positions.

This picture shows where the actuator rod goes.
Insert screwdriver into this slot.

\
When you're in the Lock position if you look on the opposite
side of the ignition switch you'll see a slot/hole. When in the
Lock position you can insert a nail or piece of wire through
that slot/hole. If you're not in the Lock position the hole wlll be
blocked.

Install the actuator rod, tighten down the ignition
switch and remove the locking pin.

Reconnect the battery and verify you have all five ignition switch
positions.

 

I got the switch in and I had all the positions you mentioned, after a few starts it would not trigger the solenoid anymore, everything came on including the ignition. I can feel it pushing against the spring but I don't think it is pushing the slide all the way to engage the solenoid.

I had to do it all by feel, there is no way I can get in or under to see anything. It took me quite a while with many scarpes and cuts to get the switch in there

waddayathink can I make any adjustments?

PS this is a great forum