What you said is pretty much correct, besides that it's not an RF transmitter inside, but rather it's a chip / transponder that is needed to start the truck. I suspect that with the programming procedure, not the key is programmed, but rather the module in the trucks "learns to know" that new key. The remote keyless entry (RF transmitter) is a completely separate thing, and is missing in this key.
The idea is that if you lose one key, you don't need the dealer to program a new one as you still have two programmed keys to do it yourself. So you need to do this BEFORE you lose a key.
You can, btw, also buy the OEM key with the remote keyless transmitter for $60 or so, but I'd do that only after losing one of my original keys.

 

Buy a key blank with the "SA" stamped in it. The "SA" key is the 80 bit transponder chip key. It is backwards compatible to the older "S" system
Take it to someone to cut it.
Do the programming steps for it.
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Separate fobs are the way to go,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-2-NEW-F...item19cd95adb1

 

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Gotcha. So that sounds like a vivable alternative to the high dollar "dealer" keys - to have a couple extra spare keys.
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What about IF you did buy one of those more expensive keys with the keyless entry: is that a separate procedure to "program" the RF x-mitter in that key? (I would assume that's a case of the truck "learning" the new key too, right?). OR does one "programming" process do both at the same time (i.e., keyless entry AND learning to start the vehicle)?

 

The key programming is one process.
The remote unlock/ lock be it a fob or the snap on fob that holds the key takes a different process.

The large headed key with the buttons is simply a snapped on fob over the standard key used by Ford Lincoln mercury and Mazda.

 

I believe that's true for pre 2011 models only. It appears to me that for 2011 and 2012 models, the fob programming is done in the same procedure together with the transponder / PATS programming.
The reason I suspect that is that there are no instructions for remote lock / unlock programming in the manual, yet it refers to the "spare key" section for fob programming. The spare key section only describes the transponder programming procedure. In addition, there is the thread below from another forum which supports this theory: http://www.f150forum.com/f38/help-pr...2011-a-137417/
I have no proof of this, though, I have not tried programming a key with the RKE in it. What makes me wonder is how would one program the stick on keypad (Keyless Entry Keypad | Customize Ford Keyless Entry Keypad | The Official Site for Ford Custom Accessories) if my theory is true? That thing can't be inserted into the ignition. That keypad is listed as being compatible with 2011's and 2012's.

 

I've seen it posted several times to be sure to get the 'SA' keys because they're backwards compatible. Backwards compatible to what? If I have one of the cheap 'S' keys and it doesn't have keyless entry and I've bought it just as an extra/spare key....won't it start the truck (once I get it cut and programmed)?
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Given the fact that I'm just after an economical spare key, why would it be important to get the 'SA' type key?

 

Apparently, the older "S" transponder keys won't work in the newer trucks. You won't be able to program them, or at least that's what I understand. I have not tried it though, and I have no plans to risk a key.

 

I'm not certain when the cutoff date was But no the "S" key will not function in the '11s
There was a change in the number of "BITS" in the transponder chip in the key.
"SA" keys WILL work in the older systems.
A plain Jane NON Chipped key can be cut for use as a access key and to turn the ignition on But the vehicle WILL NOT START!
Having one stashed in a place of concealment on your vehicle can get you back in a locked vehicle. But you do not have to worry about some one stealing your vehicle.
"SA" keys can be purchased for as little as $10.
DON"T BUY THE FANCY INTEGRATED KEY?FOB.
All those are a regular key with a fancy snap on fob.
The regular old style separate fob works for all of the Ford products to date.

 

One thing to add: if you open the door with a key instead of the remote, the alarm will go off unless you start the engine within a few seconds (which you can't with an "un-programmed" key). That is even true when the door is opened with a programmed key, at least for my 2012 truck. Tried it a few times.

 

Yep, true for my 2011 too. But that's also the way my '98 Mazda 626 worked...so nothing new there. However, I don't recall the use of the door key pad puts you under that same kind of time constraint. Appreciate the answers on the 'S' verses 'SA' question.

 

Sounds like you had the same success with the "no button" keys that I did...only problem is that the truck thinks you are stealing it and the horn beeps if you dont put it in the ignition and start the vehicle right away. So based on your experience, it sounds like the 2012 electronics is much the same as the 2011 and if you buy an older $10. FOB on EBAY to go with your plain key, you will not have the alarm problem.

 

I got an eBay "Flip" Key: NEW FORD FLIP KEY KEYLESS ENTRY REMOTE 030 19 23 | eBay

 

No, I think if you buy an older "S" key, you won't be able to program it to the truck. What that would mean, I think, is that you could open the door with it fine, but the alarm would still sound. But now, you could not start the truck with it, meaning you could not keep the alarm from coming on, and also not turn it off. Again, I have no proof, as I have not tried this.

 

Is than an "SA" key, and does it work with the 2011's and 2012's? That would be pretty cool .... !
I can't find any compatibility listing.

 

They list one for the 2011 F-150 (probably works with the '12 too), so I am assuming it has the SA encryption.