If you're going to put in a 5 speed, get a ZF 5 speed. There are 2 variations, one for small blocks (300, 302, 351w), one for big blocks (460 & 444) You have to get the small block one, as the bell housings are integrated into the tranny...

 

manual is a possibility, my brothers is manual and i love the feel of it but its a just a possibility, i like the smoothnes of automatic, but im more concerned with the othe things, any ideas on those?

 

I don't know much about nitrous on these gas motors, I've only hooked it up on a 6.9 diesel (coolest thing I've ever seen. had a 4 inch dual exhaust out the sides and shot black smoke out at least 25 feet out both sides, so it looked like a 50 foot wall of black smoke. That motor didn't last very long though. ) I don't think you're going to pull that much torque out of the motor with only those modifications. taking nitrous out of the equation, you should be able to push 330 horse out of the motor with what was said. I'm not entirely sure on torque...but those numbers seem way too high I think.

 

well the nos is for a joke really, dout i will ever even use it unless some one wants to drag me, but yeah i thought those numbers were a tad high but talked to a few guys and that exactly what they did and those were the numbers they got with the exact same parts and motor, im just gonna copy them exactly and one guy said he was getting 18mpg but he has his in a regular cab, chop top 2wd short bed with like 3.08 gears, i want diesel but i figure one day instead of converting it ill just get an old diesel duallly and mod that, but what i was instructed was torque is the way to go for gas milage and remember i said im after towing cams that are ment for max torque plus they help with gas milage, my grandpa has a turbo laying around and thinking bout putting that on there for killer MPGs and power(killer as in for that motor)

 

The real way to look at the different powers here, is that Torque is how easy your truck can turn the wheels, and Horsepower is how fast its going to get to speed.
You're after pretty contradicting things here though. You're going to get a lot of power, but at a point you start losing miles per gallon. I'm thinking you should probably find a mass air flow motor and all the computer stuff for one to use as the motor you will drop in. That way you don't have to keep getting a tune for your current computer. The MAF motor can also take a much bigger cam without having to get the computer tuned, and it can take a turbo without it. I'm going to assume that nitrous would throw off the SD computer terribly.
If you're going to do a lot of highway driving, 3.08s are the way to go, if you do much more city driving, 4.11s would be the way to go for gear ratio's by the way.
You're really diving into a lot of work, especially if this is the first motor you've ever modified. It's definitely do-able, but it's going to be a lot of time and money...

 

We were all young once.
Let's humor his plans and combine forces to give him a step by step, first things first, kinda procedure.
While I'm as ambitious as he is to do all that stuff to my truck, I'm going slow.

Nitrous isn't really made for a heavy vehicle in large doses. If you wanna give it a little sniff then that's fine. I'd say 50hp for now. You HAVE to run premium fuel, 92-93 octane preferred. Your timing will need to stay stock, 8* is ok for a 50-75shot. More than 75 you need to have some extra electronics. You need to retard timing around 2* for every 50hp.
If you are thinking nitrous, then you NEED a wet kit. Then the ecu don't really care, because your adding fuel proportional to the nitrous your giving, so the ecu stays happy.

 

Yep, UNTAMND is correct. A wet kit is the only one that the ECU won't bug out over. Also, if you're going to run nitrous, and a turbo, don't run nitrous into the turbo...Just because I can, I'm going to tell you a little story, I'm sure you'll appreciate it. I'm into truck pulling and stuff, I've pulled once with a buddy's truck in the "Open" class which is pretty much no rules, except for a cubic inch limit, which is like 650ci or something ridiculous. While we were walking around the pits scoping out the competition, we came across a truck, a 96 Ford F350 if I remember the year correctly. This truck was sporting a big block 460 with twin turbos, and we could see a nitrous bottle that he was "displaying" where his passenger seat was supposed to be. So we "inspected" under the hood that was open, and found that his nitrous lines went into the 1st turbo...we walked away, laughing, and grinning. I went and pulled, got a full pull so we were in the pull off, and this guy hooked up, held it to the floor and BANG, his little "underhood bomb" went off. He then proceeded to smash his windshield with the helmet he was wearing as he was getting his truck pulled off the track. Absolutely made my day.

 

NOS is a good 2-3 years away and ima run maybe a 30 shot, but turbo for fuel economy boost maybe in the next year or two, and yes i know im kinda messed up in ideas, im still getting input in al derections and uim trying to decide what in what order, and in practicality after seeing the cost of everything i made me a list of EVERYTHING i can find that i want with prices, brand names, full info on the product, but im thinkin as a start for a while so i can save up is simply cams and headers with true duels, reaint it, homemade lift kit(i know what you might say but me and my dad make stuff like that all the time, we know how to weld and we think things through like you wont believe first), figgit with the interior a tad bit, and 33s, and after that its save up for some real motor mods along with a turbo maybe, and F350 drive train so i can put 37s on it, but again that will be years down the road

 

i just want to end with a BA mo f'n first truck, and i want to keep it for as long as i can, not a fan of newer trucks to be honest

 

Off topic for a few...
Go to user control panel and add a signature.
Name. Truck details of what it is NOW.

We have accumulated 3 pages of random thoughts. Nothing wrong wih that but start a new thread titled "90 F150 quick upgrades"

So you've gotten the running and driving well... Right.
What have you done to it so far
We know what you "want" to do, so now let's talk about what you ARE doing.
Give it a good tuneup
Put an MSD coil on it (unless you already replaced it)
Punisher valvebody (goes along with trans fluid change)
All fluid change. Front/rear diff. Xfer case. Trans fluid filter/flush and punisher valvebody (drop pan, remove/replace vb, replace filter, refill pan, remove cooler return line, flush fluid through cooler and tq converter while refilling trans)
When you do rear diff fluid you can put a new alum bearing girdle on as well
Add a bigger trans cooler (you'll need it for the bigger tires in the future)

All these things are great projects that will greatly improve your truck.
Think it over and save your money. We will help you decide what's most important and give you an order of doing it that best suits your budget and the next mod you'll want to do.

 

ive tried to post pics but it wont let me, its being a butt face, but i havent gotte the chance being a 17 yearold that has two houses and my mom lves far away and gets me soon as im home frome school and the weather has been stopping me from getting outside, i added all that you said to my list of uprades to do, but tommorrow i pray it wont rain because my moms dropping me of at my dads so i can actually get to working on it, ive spent nearly all my time fixing little things here and there that the previeous owner didnt install correctly and hunting down bolts i snapped(dont know my own strength) but i shall try and post up pics of it and what ive done so far, i need to run to the auto parts store and get some motor oil, it says 10w-30 but i prefere to use 10w-40 uinless that will be an issue? and im goin to put all new filters and change out all fluids i can get ahold of

 

Why do you prefer 10-40.
You really should use the thinnest oil (or reccomended) that will hold your oil pressure steady. If you have low oil pressure with 10-30 then you may need an oilpump (sorta)
If you run synthetic you can run 10-40. But really unless your in real cold climate most of the year 10-40 is acceptable.

Keep at it. Fixing he little things is a major upgrade into having he truck enjoyable to drive.
Do all the free "upgrades" you can while your saving money. Nothing wrong with taking your time.

 

im in florida where its like 90 or higher 8 months outa the year, ima try and basically replace everything i can, i prefere upgrading rather than replacing, but once ive got all the fluids taken care of and things hee and there done with it running good, im cutting off the cat and putting a cherry bomb on it first off, then from there its all on how much i work and get paid that determines next mod, and i uploaded my pics, just check out my album

 

I'd personally like to see you only cut of the rear cat (you have two inline and the first one is actually combining the two sides of the engine) and that will give you a 3" outlet. Buy a section of straight pipe and a dynomax muffler. A 45* bend and exit it out in front of the rear tire. BOOM. All done.
No chery bombs unless your going all the way out the back.

 

im gonna cut the senond cat off and just have em empty out into a 3 in, 16in long cherry bomb with a 3in 30 degree down turn, thought this out forever ago, but soon as i get headers ima run duals that empty out right in front of the rear wheel and use 2.5in pipes, gonna sound sick