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  #61  
Old 03-23-2012, 12:30 AM
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Fordworth Fordworth is offline
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Yup. I don't want to hijack but I can post pics when I get them back if your interested to see them.
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1975 Highboy, Cummins 5.9, ZF5, NP205, HP D60 Front, Sterling 10.5 Rear
Custom suspension, 4 wheel discs, 38s
2002 F250 CC, 4x4, PSD, 4"^, 35s
1973 CC Dually project
Horsepower is hitting a wall hard, torque is punching through it.
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  #62  
Old 03-23-2012, 01:01 AM
Got4wd Got4wd is offline
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Quote:
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Yup. I don't want to hijack but I can post pics when I get them back if your interested to see them.
Ya that would be good. It's always nice to have a thread with lots of Info in it for the next person.
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  #63  
Old 03-23-2012, 12:55 PM
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Well, I guess I'll start with the hardware since I probably won't have the hubs back until tomorrow. Keep in mind that this is for my '75 and I'm sticking with 1/2" studs.

Here are the bolts that I will be using. McMaster-Carr


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And these are the lock washers that I will use in conjunction with green Loctite. These are excellent for high vibration applications and don't have the tendancy to break or flatten out and lose their effectiveness like split washers.

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They get installed in pairs that mate with each other.


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Here you can see the why they are called wedge locks. Both washers are the same but the face opposite directions. The smaller teeth go toward the head of the bolt and the work piece. The larger wedges mate in the middle and lock against each other.

Photobucket
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1975 Highboy, Cummins 5.9, ZF5, NP205, HP D60 Front, Sterling 10.5 Rear
Custom suspension, 4 wheel discs, 38s
2002 F250 CC, 4x4, PSD, 4"^, 35s
1973 CC Dually project
Horsepower is hitting a wall hard, torque is punching through it.
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  #64  
Old 03-25-2012, 10:44 PM
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This is for information only. I make no guaruntees about safety or reliability in regard to the information in this post. What you do with it is your own responsibility.

I got my hubs back this evening. Here's the chart the machinist made for plotting the holes. The numbers circled in red are the important ones.

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Rear view.


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Spot faced, drilled and tapped.


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Since the rotors that came with the axle were in good shape I elongated the holes so they would work with the new pattern. When they need to be replaced I'll use the van ones.

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I cleaned the holes and the bolts in preperation for the Loctite. Here they are with the bolts installed and ready to go.

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1975 Highboy, Cummins 5.9, ZF5, NP205, HP D60 Front, Sterling 10.5 Rear
Custom suspension, 4 wheel discs, 38s
2002 F250 CC, 4x4, PSD, 4"^, 35s
1973 CC Dually project
Horsepower is hitting a wall hard, torque is punching through it.
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  #65  
Old 03-26-2012, 07:26 AM
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Is there any concern about the strength of the hubs with the bolts installed in an area of the hub that isn't reinforced? Look at the extra thickness of the hub where the stock studs would have been mounted. It also seems to me that the presence of now 16 holes in that hub instead of 8 would make the unit as a whole substantially weaker. Maybe it is over engineered, but I would tend to err on the side of caution on something as important as this. Also, are you concerned about running the rotor with elongated holes like that? I would thing that the tendency would be for it to slip a little and wear on the studs.

Are the new hubs designed to be hub centric or lug centric? How is the fitment of the hub to an old 8 x 6.5 spaced rim?

Don't get me wrong, I am not trying to rain on anybody's parade, I would love to do this on my truck some day too. I just want to make sure that this type of project is being given the careful consideration that it is due. If something like this should fail, it could be disastrous for more than just the occupants of the vehicle. It's hard to overstate the pressures being put on these types of equipment in a fully loaded truck in the case of a panic stop or evasive maneuver of some sort. I just don't want to see anyone get hurt or sued.
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  #66  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:11 AM
Got4wd Got4wd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYMechanic View Post
Is there any concern about the strength of the hubs with the bolts installed in an area of the hub that isn't reinforced? Look at the extra thickness of the hub where the stock studs would have been mounted. It also seems to me that the presence of now 16 holes in that hub instead of 8 would make the unit as a whole substantially weaker. Maybe it is over engineered, but I would tend to err on the side of caution on something as important as this. Also, are you concerned about running the rotor with elongated holes like that? I would thing that the tendency would be for it to slip a little and wear on the studs.

Are the new hubs designed to be hub centric or lug centric? How is the fitment of the hub to an old 8 x 6.5 spaced rim?

Don't get me wrong, I am not trying to rain on anybody's parade, I would love to do this on my truck some day too. I just want to make sure that this type of project is being given the careful consideration that it is due. If something like this should fail, it could be disastrous for more than just the occupants of the vehicle. It's hard to overstate the pressures being put on these types of equipment in a fully loaded truck in the case of a panic stop or evasive maneuver of some sort. I just don't want to see anyone get hurt or sued.

That flange is over 1/2" thick. I don't see it failing. And as far as the rotor being slotted, it centers over the hub and once it's bolted to the wheel there will be no movement. The wear on the studs will be no different than on a super duty stud. I do have to ask, I have never seen 1/2 studs on a 8 lug. And I might have missed it, why not use the 9/16 stud? What wheels are you using?
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  #67  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:20 AM
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All valid points. The hubs do appear to be over engineered and even the thin part is a touch over 1/2" thick. Keep in mind that redrilling hubs is a common practice that has been going on as long as folks have been modifying cars. In fact many aftermarket products have multiple patterns to accommodate different applications. Also threading bolts into the flange instead of pressing in knurled studs doesn't stress it and minimizes the amount of material removed.

As far as the rotors go, I only removed about 1/16" of material from each hole. The rotors are hub centric and in stock form the studs are a 14mm while the holes measure over 16mm. The way it is now is no different.

The hub fits fine in a the older style wheel becase the center hole is bigger and won't interfere with the pilot surface of the hub. Aftermarket wheels for Superdutys are lug centric too, the hub doesn't care which style is bolted to it.

All that said, this is for information only. I'm not an engineer and I'm not making any guarantees or claims aboout safety.
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1975 Highboy, Cummins 5.9, ZF5, NP205, HP D60 Front, Sterling 10.5 Rear
Custom suspension, 4 wheel discs, 38s
2002 F250 CC, 4x4, PSD, 4"^, 35s
1973 CC Dually project
Horsepower is hitting a wall hard, torque is punching through it.
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  #68  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Got4wd View Post
I do have to ask, I have never seen 1/2 studs on a 8 lug. And I might have missed it, why not use the 9/16 stud? What wheels are you using?
1/2" was pretty standard back then and I want to keep both ends of the truck the same. I think my '73 dually with a D70 has 9/16" though. The wheels are aftermarket ones on the truck in my sig.
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1975 Highboy, Cummins 5.9, ZF5, NP205, HP D60 Front, Sterling 10.5 Rear
Custom suspension, 4 wheel discs, 38s
2002 F250 CC, 4x4, PSD, 4"^, 35s
1973 CC Dually project
Horsepower is hitting a wall hard, torque is punching through it.
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  #69  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:50 AM
Got4wd Got4wd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordworth View Post
1/2" was pretty standard back then and I want to keep both ends of the truck the same. I think my '73 dually with a D70 has 9/16" though. The wheels are aftermarket ones on the truck in my sig.
Learn something everyday huh! Never knew they were 1/2" Good luck with your swap and thanks for the pics.
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  #70  
Old 04-29-2012, 05:40 PM
Got4wd Got4wd is offline
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It's in. Changing the shock mounts, the old ones will be used. I ground down the SD shock mounts. Parking brake needs to be moved forward. On the rear brake line since I haven't read out it discussed neededs to be flipped so it can be used on the SD axle. Also the SD axle has a different spring perch than the obs. You will gain 1" when the axle goes in so I will be getting a 3" block instead of the factory 4" one. On to the pics.

Before pic
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  #71  
Old 05-12-2012, 06:51 AM
Xauterus Xauterus is offline
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Were you able to source custom studs to do this in the future? I am interested in a set.

What were your original oversize studs off?



Corey

Last edited by Xauterus; 05-12-2012 at 07:57 AM. Reason: extra
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  #72  
Old 09-12-2012, 04:59 PM
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ChaseTruck754 ChaseTruck754 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Got4wd View Post
Machined to fit the obs wheels
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Quote:
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Wheels fit and ran 4 lugs onto it.
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Do you remember how much you had to take off for this? I will be doing the hubs like Fordworth did so I can run the 10.5 in my '74 crew cab. I have the factory Alcoa wheels like in the pic above though so I'm guessing a little turn down of the OD is in order.

I'm currently looking for suitable bolts in 9/16 size but hope to have this wrapped up in a few weeks.
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  #73  
Old 09-12-2012, 05:29 PM
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http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/...781&page=3#top

Post #100

Rusty
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  #74  
Old 09-12-2012, 05:32 PM
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ChaseTruck754 ChaseTruck754 is offline
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Thanks. Here's the info from that post for others looking. If you want to see the exact post it's the last one on page 10 of that thread

Quote:
I mis-stated earlier that Ford 99-04 and 1997 and older use the same wheel pilot diameter, this is wrong.
Machining is necessary to fit an OEM wheel to the SD mounting hub.

8 on 6.5 Ford wheels have a 4.88" pilot. And likely a 4.875"(Exact 4-7/8") Hub diameter.
1999-2004 SD pilot diameters are 125.1 MM(4.925)Wheel; 124.97(4.920)Hub

The new chased threads look very good on those studs considering that most material used for rolled fasteners is a little finicky when thread chasing.
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1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250
long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cab
thread in "motor swap" forum
1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
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  #75  
Old 09-14-2012, 02:48 PM
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Last post in that link shows a new stud you (Got4wd) ended up having made for the things. Can I get the cost on the studs please.
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1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250
long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cab
thread in "motor swap" forum
1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:48 PM
 
 
 
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