Here is the Rugged Ridge locking hub description:

Rugged Ridge Locking Hubs

Knee deep in the mud with a failed automatic hub and a disabled vehicle? The only way to repair it is to replace it. The question is, with what? Factory automatic hubs have a history of failing when you need them the most. A damaged hub will render your 4x4 useless and leave you stranded. Wish you could swap your vulnerable automataic hubs to a set of manual locking hubs? Rugged Ridge has heard your plea. Rugged Ridge Manual Locking Hubs are unanimously recognized as the world's toughest hubs by our thousands of satisfied customers worldwide. Brute strength matters, that is why the bodies of our hubs are crafted from impact resistant nodular iron, and feature a corrosion resistant die cast aluminum cap. Our hubs deliver better 4WD performance when locked and improved fuel economy in 2WD when unlocked, than automatic hubs. Purchasing a set of premium manual hubs is more cost effective than servicing your worn factory hubs. with the money you save you'll be able to carry a spare set, not that you'll need them. Sure you have to get out of the cab to lock the hubs, but unlike automatic hubs, you won't have to wait until you lose traction for your four-wheel drive to engage.

4x4 JEEP/TRUCK LOCKING/LOCK OUT HUBS by RUGGED RIDGE

 

Sorry, the above post slipped in on me while I was out. I'll check it out.

 

I'll call their tech people tomorrow to make sure. My question still stands, however. Do I really need to do anything? It sounds like I have a set of Warn lockouts already.

 

Are the hubs giving you problems? If so, there are pretty good threads around FTE for testing and troubleshooting the hubs. Just remember that most of what you find will be for '04 and earlier trucks.

The '05 and up hubs are much better. But that doesn't mean they are perfect. Most of the time the problem with these is a vacuum leak outside of the hub. In the hoses, the pump, or most commonly the vacuum solenoid valve. These axles themselves don't often leak. Seal kits for the hubs are cheap and easy to install.

For an '05 and up, I would recommend you fix the OEM system. Unless you prove it is leaking around the axles, in which case the cost of repair might not be worth it.

For my '06, seal kits on the hubs and replacing the valve fixed me up nicely. YMMV.

 

No idea as to trouble. I'm about to start the conversion of my '03 F 250 2wd to 4 wd. I've bought an '06 rollover that has ESOF as a donor truck. In my research I found out that the ESOF was a major issue for conversion, so I've bought a manual transfer case to just avoid it all together. Now I'm looking at the next problem on down the line which is the hubs. I'm sure others will come up, but this is the next one on the list.

 

Jeff's has them (Warn's).
D60 Warn Premium 35 Spline Hubs

 

I'm very sure those will not fit an '05 and up Superduty.

Here is the Warn Ind application chart.
Warn Industries - 4WD Premium Hubs

 

Yeah, I contacted Warn Industries about those hubs a few years ago... they will not work on the 2005 and up Super Duty. Here is their response:

<HR align=center SIZE=2 width="100%">
From: Lowry, Heidi [mailto:LowryH@Warn.com] On Behalf Of Warn Customer Service
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2009 11:27 AM
To: a1saine@adelphia.net
Subject: RE: Support: Part # 62672
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Andrew,<o></o>
<o> </o>
Thank you for your interest in Warn products. However, PN 62672 will not work with your vehicle as Warn does not offer an aftermarket hublock for the '05+ Super Duty. The Ford Super Duty truck has a hybrid auto/manual hublock installed from the factory. The wheel ends are disconnected until they are manually locked or shifted into 4WD. <o></o>
<o> </o>
Regards,<o></o>
<o></o>
Heidi Lowry<o></o>
Warn Industries<o></o>
Customer Service
<HR align=center SIZE=2 width="100%">

 

I plan to call Ford tomorrow and see if there is any real difference in the manual and auto hubs besides the manual saying "free" or ""lock" and the auto saying "auto" or "lock" (or free or whatever it says, can't recall). Question is, do I need to pull the hubs and block off the vacuum tubes, or can I just run it the way it is?

 

Is there a reason why you bought a new transfer case as opposed to remoing the motor and buying the linkage. I thought I read on here that the linkage would bolt right on and the only thing that had to be done was removing the plug in the floor, buy the handle, boot and linkage and your all set.

This was a while ago and my mind is shot so I could be all wrong. I wish I ordered my truck with the manual T-case but the wife drives it somethines and I wanted it to be easy for her to use if needed. But I have to say at just about 68k, I havent had a problem with my auto 4wd system...yet.

Sarge

 

I got info from this and other sites that suggested that the entire transfer case had to be changed. We'll need others with more knowledge to tell us which is right. However, the transfer case itself is a separate part number from all of the linkage parts and there are 2 different part numbers for the manual (NV271) and the auto (NV273). I'm pretty sure I've done the right thing by buying a manual transfer case.

 

Im with ya, if I was doing what you were I would get a new Tcase. Im just looking for an easier route than a replacement as there is nothing wrong with what I have...so for me if it aint broke dont fix it. But the 05-Current ESOF is a lot more reliable than the previous years super duty's

Sarge

 

Go to the Rocking Ridge website shown, put in a 2005 Super Duty and note the SKU number. Then put in a 2004 Super Duty and note the SAME SKU number. I would bet that their parts catalog is in error. A hub that will fit 2004 or older will not fit 2005 and newer.

 

Oops! I made a boo-boo!

Rugged Ridge does make a hub for the 2005-2008 Super Duties but only those with a Dana 70 front axle. The Part# is OMX15001.97 which is also listed for the 1999-2004 Super Duties with a Dana 70 front axle.

 

Which ones had a Dana 70? How can you tell?