1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Hello Everyone and I have questions.

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  #16  
Old 01-09-2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ben73058
I would second the vote to change/upgrade from the 215/223 engine.
I looked hard at all craiglist sites in NC/SC/VA - nada but there were a bunch of Ford V8 Flatheads if you want to stick with an older engine.
There were numerous 6 cylinder 300's - some very reasonable in NC.
Not trying to sway you to the darkside but you could find a 289/302/351
across the street....

Ben in Austin
That was kinda my original question as to whether a 289, 302 or 351 would bolt up to the original transmission. I know I could get all different sizes of small V8's locally and cheap...if I chose to go that way. The more I think about it I want to leave it as an inline 6. There is a guy locally who has a flathead 6 but I am not feeling that either. I like the simplicity of the inline 6.
I have added more pictures to my gallery. Keep in mind that i just got it last Friday and right now I would rate it a 40-40. I have the Fenders and grill off and engine ready to pull. There are layers of mud and clay caked on all of the under carriage. The bed is plywood. I will go and take more pictures of the results of the internal detonation.
 
  #17  
Old 01-09-2012, 09:04 PM
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I agree with you, Kevin. Keep the truck stock and original as much as you can. Production was very low for 52 trucks when compared to all other four years. Plus, if you can locate a 215, you'll be different than anyone else. Most will opt to change out to a flathead 8 or your run of the mill SBC or SBF. A 215 is much easier and cheaper to work on than a flathead. Parts are available because most interchange with the 223. Keep looking. You're bound to find one close to you. Search the internet (CL, eBay, Ford Barn, HAMB, etc) every day. Post wanted ads, etc. Don't forget that cars also had 215s. You have two years of production (52-53). The engine is out there. Just keep looking. If you still can't find it locally to you, I have one sitting at my house, and so does Old Dan at his house. Oh, and when you do find one and get installed in your truck, be prepared for most "car guys" ask you why you installed a Chevy 216 motor in your Ford truck. I was getting that a lot when my Panel was running. Most don't realize that Ford made an OHV 215 6 cyl engine starting in 52.

And when you're ready to pull the engine, make sure to remove the exhaust and intake manifolds. Whatever you do, do not hook a chain around them. They're easy to break and good replacements are hard to find. No repro. Only available used if you can find them. An exhaust manifold from 1952 is one year only design. In 53 it was slightly changed as I described in a previous post and it remained the same for many years.
 
  #18  
Old 01-09-2012, 09:15 PM
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Just looked through your photos. Appears to be a nice original truck. It's a 5 Star Extra Cab (or Deluxe). Has more options than a regular optioned truck. Some of the options are additional hood moldings, passenger side sun visor, interior door trim panels (upper metal and lower fiber board), arm rests (yours are missing, but available in repro), locking glove box door, radio (can't see if there is one), stainless steel door glass division bars, chrome vent window frames, cigar(ette) lighter, dome lamp, locking driver's side door (lock cylinder from exterior), stainless steel molding trim around windshield (yours is missing). There may be a few more options that I'm forgetting.

I also noticed that your truck has the stock and correct 51-52 rear bumper. Guard it! They're hard to find. Your truck also has the correct 6 cylinder crest on the front of the hood. They're not reproduced either. Can't tell if the wheels are original. What size are they and are the nubs for the hub caps inside or outside the wheel lug area on the wheel? Did your truck come with a tailgate?
 
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:51 PM
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Thanks For info Panel Man. You made my day. The wheels are original. I'll get the size and let you know. There is no radio, it has a Ford radio delete plate. I noticed the molding around the windshield had the groove for the metal trim. It does have all of the other options you listed and even the tool tray is there.
I found a Complete 223 nearby for a $100. But in reading through the search feature here I have decided to wait it out for a 215. Your earlier post backed that up even more. The tailgate was missing. There was 1 chain still hanging there however. I lost the right rear tail light on the tow home.
The back bumper is valuable...go figure. I am trying to remember back to when I was 9 and started driving these kinda trucks what is the expectable play in the steering? This one has about 4 inches. It does turn remarkable free for no power steering.
 
  #20  
Old 01-09-2012, 09:55 PM
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Oh and I already unbolted the exhaust/intake manifold and have them bagged and tagged. No chain will go around them.
 
  #21  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:04 PM
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The 223 will bolt to your existing transmission, but it's not a 215. Slight difference on the location of the distribtor and oil filter.

The stainless w/s trim is inserted into the groove in the weatherstrip. It likely went awol if the w/s was replaced previously. Does any of the glass have a Ford or a FoMoCo etching in the corners? In order to install the trim again, the w/s has to be removed. The stainless steel trim is not available in repro, but can be found (eBay, Ford Barn, HAMB, FTE classifieds, etc), but they're not cheap. I think I have an extra one.

A brand new tailgate is available in repro, but is somewhere in the $300 price range. I may have a decent used one. Chains and rear lights/brackets are also available in repro and are not that expensive. That was the other option on the Extra Cab (Deluxe) truck, the passenger side tail light.

If your truck has 16", then you're sitting on a small goldmine. Most have been swapped out for the 15" wheels. Hubcaps are available in repro or could be found used

More things to add to your parts search list.

As for the steering play, it's common to have slop in the steering. Some trucks have little and some have a lot. It all depends on the prior use and abuse. There's an adjustment screw on the steering box that allows removal of some of the slop. However, if that doesn't work, a rebuild is in your future.

BTW, have you purchased a shop manual with the 52 supplement? You'll need one if you plan to work on your vehicle. It should be the first item you buy for your truck. The reprint shop manual is plentiful on eBay and is available from any repro parts vendor catering to our trucks. I have a reprint for use in the garage (comes with the 52 supplement) and an original (48-51 and a separate 52 supplement) for the house. You should also consider buying a parts manual. They're also available on eBay and reprinted. However, I'd spend my money on the CD version. 1948-56 Ford Truck Master Parts Catalog CD - HiPo Parts Garage

EDIT: I just ordered the CD version myself, even though I have several printed versions from different publication years.
 
  #22  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:31 PM
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I was going to buy a manual when I got through with all the grunt work. I will need it for the wiring when I get to that point. It was the first thing I bought when I got the corvette. And it was the most important tool I had when restoring that Car. The wiring diagram was worth the 49 bucks (corvette tax) I paid for it.
I noticed there is actually one hub cap that remains on the right rear. Now I am going to go out in the rain and check the wheel size. I'm curious.
Dang it the wheels are 15"
 
  #23  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:44 PM
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16" wheels are all the rage now with hot-rodders. Standard size, I believe, is 16x4.5. There are also 16x4 and 16x5, which are very hard to find. I had a baker's dozen at one time in order to pick through and make a set for my 52, which came with 15" wheels when I bought it. A friend of mine ended up giving me a set (5) of 16" as you see them in the picture below, when he replaced the wheels on his 49 with 15" chrome smoothies.

 
  #24  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:59 PM
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That is a sweet ride Ilya. I can see the appeal of the wheels.
 
  #25  
Old 01-09-2012, 11:18 PM
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It's a giant tin can is what it is. Would be a sweet ride if it actually moved. It's been sitting for several years when I finally put the 215 back in it in Fall of 2010. A few months later, the engine developed a mysterious backfire that I wasn't able to resolve. Now I'm just waiting for the engine to be rebuilt.
 
  #26  
Old 01-10-2012, 06:15 PM
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I took pictures of the cracked block today. I tried to post them from photobucket like you said Ilya but it just kept giving me crap. maybe it is another newby thing. I love this engine it took me 30 minutes to pull the head. Also the motor mount bushings were so bad there is less than 1/8" between the crank pulley and the frame. I could not get the belts off.
The glass is Binswanger. I'll add the photos to my gallery.
 
  #27  
Old 01-10-2012, 06:34 PM
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I don't see the crack. The motor mount bushings are available in repro.

Have you called around some machine shops in your area to see if they can fix your existing block?
 
  #28  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan
I don't see the crack. The motor mount bushings are available in repro.

Have you called around some machine shops in your area to see if they can fix your existing block?
The crack is right over the center freeze plug. It actually runs from the front intake port to the back intake port. About 3/4" below the top of the block.
Yeah I have called a lot of the machine shops and restoration shops in my area.
I also filled out a junkyard dog request. Worst case scenario will the 215 timing cover work on a 223? I might pick it up anyway as a spare.
 
  #29  
Old 01-10-2012, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Carolina 52
Worst case scenario will the 215 timing cover work on a 223?
Yes, it should.
 
  #30  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:13 PM
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Dang Ilya! you still haven't got that engine back together?
 


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