My fuel filter cap on the motor is leaking pretty bad, and its starting to get a bit rounded off. It has a habit of getting stuck on and needing persuasion to get it off. I'm just tired of messing with it. So I priced out a stock replacement and its a few bucks more to get an aftermarket aluminum one that would let me check my fuel pressure too. It looks like they start around $50 for diesel manor all the up to $80 or more for like the bulletproof diesel ones or even $47 for this one: Ford Powerstroke 6.0 Billet Fuel Filter Cap 6.0L | eBay

Is there any reason to spend more?? has anyone got one and had problems with it? This is something I want to buy once.

 

Well what do you expect for a

 

I would pass on the aftermarket aluminum with the 1/8 NPT bung, I just tried hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to the one I have, well not only does the fuel filter not snap into the cap, but it Also seems to leak pretty good around the gasket. It is better to use the fuel pressure test port plug on the side

 

Oh, and not to mention the fact that anytime you want to remove the cap you would have to remove the line first, not worth it to me

 

LOL

 

All jokes aside I would just go for the Fuel pressure test port style to for a gauge hookup

Its probably more accurite of a reading there where its designed to be taken at the fuel pressure test port vs the Housing lid IMO

 

Interesting since that's the total opposite of what everyone recommended on every thread I found in search. My oem one is stripped and leaking and lots of others break theirs too. Just keep replacing them? No aftermarket ones seal any better?

And yes the 6.0 is a total piece of ****. Nothing but problems with mine so far.

 

If your upper OEM fuel filter cap is breaking and leaking, then you're doing something wrong when you put it in. This is not a common problem as far as I have ever read.

First, you need a 24mm socket. Do NOT use a 1/2" drive in the hole where a 1/2" drive would fit. This will break the cap every time. Use a fresh o-ring whenever you change the filter and tighten it down carefully until the lip of the cap meets the aluminum top of the filter bowl.

Edit: 6 point sockets work better, as they have more contact surface with the cap nut.

Edit again: When you replace the o-ring, be sure to lubricate it well with new motor oil.

 

hmm, how many miles you have on her? I have not one problem with that cap. What other troubles are you haveing?

 

I havent had any issues with that cap YET either I say yet because I have used a 1/2 drive to remove it the last 4-5 times and its not broke. But I dont crank it on like a gorrilla either

 

I agree, this is exactly how I do it & I've never had a problem.

 

I too have used the 1/2 drive breaker bar to remove and install mine since I've had the truck....never had a problem. Ditto on the not cranking on it! Slow steady pressure on it while removing......And never a leak. I even drilled and tapped a hole in the center top to install an oil temp sensor for number of years until I got my Scan Gauge II.

 

I've never had a problem. I lube the O ring and threads with vaseline and only tighten till it bottoms out. The O ring seals not the threads.

 

It was fine but I pulled the lid with a socket to check condition of filters when I bought it (they looked brand new). I tightened it back down to the torque value listed on the cap. The next time I went to take it off to do my blue spring, it was stuck. I was using the right sized box end wrench but it really wouldn't budge. I think what happened is that there was a leak in the keyhole gasket so after it sat, the fuel leaked down from the filter so there was suction on the bottom of the lid. At any rate, the wrench was 12 point and I rounded off the 6 points of the plastic lid before I finally realized what happened and jumped in and cranked the engine, after which it then came loose (I think I ended up using a socket instead of a wrench). After I finished my blue spring install I had a really bad fuel leak on my test drive, like a steady stream... I realized it was the fuel filter lid, even though I had snugged it down. So I pulled out the socket/ratchet and tightened it down. It was still leaking. So I gave it some more snugging and its now super tight and still leaking.

 

I don't know why they put a torque value on there. You just want to tighten it until the lip of the lid meets the aluminum housing. Anything more is too tight.

Your leaking problem may be the o-ring. If the o-ring gets nicked, it's going to leak. Since the o-ring makes the seal, it won't matter how much you tighten it, if the o-ring is bad it's going to leak.

Also, I mentioned using a 6 point socket. It will significantly lessen the chance of rounding off the edges.

At this point, if I were you, I'd give the OEM cap another try. Get a new one so you don't have the rounded off nut. Get a new o-ring, lube it up good with new motor oil (or vaseline like 69cj said. It should work well also) and put it back together. Ignore the torque value and just go down to where the lip of the cap meets the housing. Use a 6 point socket. Make sure you lube the o-ring well each time, and see if that works better for you.