52,000 Ohms sounds way out of range for a temperature sensor. However, I cannot find a specification for it.

Make sure you clean the connector good, and also disconnect the battery(s) for at least 5 minutes to reset the computer.

 

i got that from someone hear that had a e4od zip file,it was about 46 degrees in the garage so i dont know if thats in the range or not,are these not serviceable?in other words if one thing is out ,do you replace the whole block.thats what i gather from the picture.i tried uploading a picture of what i was talking about but i no longer see the option.if i can figure it out i will post it.it was in a e4od zip file with other information.

 

well i did the battery trick and cleaned the wire harness to the solenoid block.i let it warm up and drove it about 5 miles around the country.it is now shifting as it should instead of a 72 nova.i can use the o/d and tell a difference in the transmission however the light still does not come on when i manually press it.come to think of it i havent seen the blinky in a long time,it probably figured that this dumb a$$ was not paying attention anyhow and just quit.i mean after all,it did try and talk to me for years and i treated it like an exwife!so i dont know if its burned out or what.no more codes yet but its early.ill drive it later and see if i get any fluid blowing out or codes.thanks for all the advice ----ill be back..

 

If I remember correctly it is a small bulb like some in the cluster and is replaceable by taking the end cap off the shift lever then it is under the OD switch.

 

TOT sensor fluid temp

Degrees F | Resistance Ohms

32-58 | 37k- 100k
58-104 | 16K- 37K
105-158 | 5K- 16K
159-194 | 2.7k- 5K
195-230 | 1.5K- 2.7k
231-266 | .08k- to 1.5K

EPC Resistance | 4.0-6.5 ohms

SS1 and SS2, CCS, CCC resistance | 20-30 ohms

You reset the computer allowing it attempt use/rely on the trans solenoid pack associated circuits control the trans, shifts as it should now that is a normal reaction (unless total failure of some sort).

Will take some drive time to know if will go back to limp mode due to issues again.

After clearing computer you should have run the self test again see if get a system pass or any error/s. If has a simple connection issue for example it would tell you what system was effected, you'd know which circuit/wire to look at/test based on that info.

 

unless i missed it , any auto tranny will need specialized tools to get it all apart and they can cost a few hundred bucks to buy !

 

That all depends upon how handy you are. Many of the special tools are designed for those who rebuild trannies all day long where time is of the essence. There are a number of workarounds that can be used to accomplish the same thing which require a bit more time and care, and are just fine for those who are only going to do this job infrequently.

I rebuilt five GM T350s in high school (the full-meal deal, replacing every brass bushing in there which looking back really isn't even necessary in most cases). I made my own pair of right-angle snap ring plier tips out of some welding rod, to get this one square-cut clip out that holds everything in the back half of the tranny case. I got so sick of reading the manual and having it tell me that I needed special tool # J4638-T26-KL1 in order to get the next part out!

 

danr1-thanks,according to your chart my temp is in the range ok,and i should have been more clear ,i did check for codes afterwords and it had not recorded any others in the 5 miles.ill try tomorrow to tow with it to try it out.also ill look into the bulb tomorrow.thanks again.

 

You gotta "system pass" for the KOEO test? If so that's either a good sign.......or a bad sign.

Good sign if the only problem was at the bulkhead connector, your unplugging it plugging it back in corrected the problem.

Bad sign if there was nothing wrong there, all problems are internal to the T/C and trans.

Little more drive time will tell the tail quick enough! If it doesn't go back into limp mode you might dodge a rebuild for a while.

Make sure it has a good trans cooler and the cooling fan clutch does lock up like it should so it gets air flow needed.

 

ok, i couldnt stand it,i went out and swapped the o/d button with one from work truck.no its not a replaceable bulb.but anyhow it must have been burnt out.(after all its been on for the last 50,000 miles id give up too)and drove it again.still no codes flashing from o/d light.as well as from computer.so ill try it out again under a load and see what happens.i have not ever had it shift this smooth.i just thought thats how it was.ive always prided myself with takeing care of equipment.but i dropped the ball on this one.i had no idea it was a warning flashing.i did go out and say im sorry to it.thanks again

 

No one brought it up, but from what I have read, the 2wd and 4wd tailhousings for the E4OD are interchangeable. If need be, you can swap your tailhousing onto the 2wd tranny.

Hopefully someone will correct me if I am wrong.

 

Briandguy ,i have looked hard and from what i gather it is the longer output shaft that is needed for the 4x4.and since its one of the first pieces in,its got to be tore down to change it to the longer shaft.if i have made a mistake i would love to know because the one i was wanting to get was built to last.its also for a van with the short output shaft.i remember my dad just changing the tailpiece on much older trucks but i dont think that works anymore.

 

here are some tools for trannies !
Tools Transmission Tools Tools Tools Tool Transmission Tools Tools Tool

 

Rather than start a new thread, I thought I'd revive this one. I am considering some level of rebuild on my 1992 E4OD (5.8L) 2WD truck. I've been reading thru posts on E4ODs and want to ask some opinions.

My truck has 90,000 miles on it, and it has started leaking fluid out the front/bottom on a regular basis. Prior to this, it leaked one time I was helping a person move on a hot summer day. My suspicion is that I've overheated it and have a deteriorated front seal.

Is it true that I have to remove the tranny to replace this seal? If so, what other things should I look for? Are there rebuild kits that would be good to install? I hate to take the whole thing out and not do some maintenance in addition to any repairs.

Thanks for your thoughts.
mikey.

 

Yes, the transmission has to come out to replace the front seal. I would take a long look in the pan when you drain it, if you have nothing but a black film on everything, I would just stick seals and a filter in it and be done. There are a number of rebuild kit sources out there, bigger problem is the specialized tools needed to rebuild it. Be careful removing/replacing it, they are a heavy beast and the pan configuration doesn't balance real well even on a transmission jack.