I hadn't though of just bonding something to the door without bolting the mirror to it. The only issue I can see would be keeping it there while the adhesive sets up, and that could be done by placing the door on the work table so gravity keeps it there. Gotta think about that. Thanks.

 

Or just stuffing a roll of foam rubber or other resilient material between the door skins...
Be sure to use a piece of poly sheeting so you don't accidentally bond IT into the door too.
(I don't usually think about the doors not being attached to the cab)

If there is 7/8" clearance between the lowered window and the outer door skin something like the galvanized furring would be a cheap solution.

 

Thanks! That's my inclination at this point. Still need to figure out what to do about the fasteners for the valve covers though. I want clean and tidy.

 

Gary, I'm looking at post 4380 () and don't see why you can't just use long stainless or chrome Allen screws in the top bolt holes?

They are available to 5" and you would only need four.
Just drill them 5/16 deep to get the head flush.

 

Okay, looking closely at the photos, the original mirrors from Dad's Truck are set up such that the mirror is in the "in" position [nearest the cab]. I will have to assume this is the "normal" [for you] position used when not towing. Whether "in" or "out", the head is supported by a much shorter piece of metal than the more common stock items which do not offer the extended position. FORD had a good idea, but vibration was included at no extra charge. Even when you wedged something between the layers, you still encountered vibration.

Here is one idea. Remove the extension and mount the mirrow [new one] in the place where the pivot presently is. This will be like a standard [not dual position] mirror and will actually move the mirror outward maybe 2-3 inches from the position as seen in the photos, thereby giving a better rear view when towing, unless you actually are extending the current mirrors when towing? You would certainly keep the extensions [in a zip lock bag and labeled; we have seen your work! ]. This way, nothing has been lost or modified such that it cannot be undone.

Another idea is to use an unneeded scrap mirror assembly and cut the longest support to a length of twice what the current dual position extension is. With your machinist skills [recently exhibited with making and shaping the console mounting bracket], you could bevel the corners to look original. Drill a hole right in the middle [center] and another hole on one end where the mirror can be mounted. This would allow you to have the mirror fully extended and on the opposite end of the new piece [near the cab], for sake of experimentation, you could use some sort of clamp or small worm gear hose clamp. By doing this, you could see if this lessons the vibration without drilling any holes in the original mirror mounts. Between the two pieces of metal, a small flat strip of rubber could be used to dampen the vibrations. [I have access to samples of black EPDM rubber, which is resistant to exposure to the environment. These sheets are ~.080 - .100" thick]. The negative to this is that you would not be able to further simply pivot the mirrors to the inward position due to having a piece of metal in a position which could cause harm [injury]. If you decided you like this set-up, you could remove the clamp and permanently attach it by drilling another hole and using a bolt and nut to match the others.

Whatever you decide, I recommend not restoring the original mirror mounts to such a degree that you remove the vise marks or doing away with the slotted washers. Go ahead and clean and powder coat as desired, but these marks and slotted washers are "signatures" penned by Dad!

Just my thoughts! You are doing a great job!

 

Jim - I think we are saying the same thing. I will use a mill to give a flat lip to the hole. And I will make it a bit larger than the head of the SHCS so I can get a washer in there, but a modified washer that is just a bit bigger than the head to ensure it catches the lip.

And, I assume the ROTFL is due to the # of posts in the short time?

David - If I understand what you are saying it is a way to stabilize the arm - right? I will hold onto that idea, and the one about mounting the mirrors in the stock location, until I try the factory approach - albeit with new equipment. I'm hoping that reinforcing the mount and/or door skin will resolve the vibration problem and I won't have to resort to those lengths.

But, you are right in that the mirrors normally run in the "in" position. The main reason for that is because they won't move to allow swiveling them out. Or, maybe I should say they won't move without quite a bit of effort - enough that it feels like something is going to break. So that's one of the reasons I wanted the new hardware. Hopefully I can swivel and rotate things initially and will keep them lubed so I can do that ongoing.

 

Yeah, I'm laughing at how far this thread has gone in relation to the truck.
(not laughing AT you, but WOW!)

What size are those screws Gary?
Metric (ISO) washers are often of a smaller OD. and might be a good fit.
i.e. 6mm-1/4", 8mm- 5/16" etc...

 

The screws are 1/4-20. I'm thinking stainless cap screws for all positions, with stainless washers under them so I don't gall the aluminum. But for the inside ones I'll mount a few washers on a bolt and turn them down in the lathe to just fit in the enlarged hole.

As for the number of pages, there are quite a few, that's for sure. I've wondered about splitting things up into different threads, like one for the mirrors, one for the valve covers, one for the seats, etc. but this way I always know where the answer is.

 

Yeah, you'll always know the answer is here. Somewhere... Amongst the ~300 pages and 4400 posts (and counting)......

Those dual position mirror extensions are notorious for causing excessive vibrations in the mirror head. Do away with that piece, and the mirrors will be much more clear....

 

Finding what I'm looking for is what the search function is for. I've used it many, many times.

I understand what you are saying and had the same assumption originally. But, after trying several things to fix it I finally came to the conclusion the vibes are coming from elsewhere. So, I'm going to reinforce at least the lower mounting point, if not the upper one, and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll do as you and David suggested - do away with the swing arms.

Having said that, as David points out my mirrors sit 3" further in than the stock position due to the swing arm being swiveled in. So, I actually might like the mirrors being in the "normal" position. Anyway, with the new mirrors, swing arms, etc I have lots of options.

 

Just a thought, but could you get the upper door skin from a rusted out door and take that section under the mirrors to bond to the inside. Just round the corners, and it should fit almost perfectly. Like I said, just a thought.

 

Smart! Great thinking, Ron!

 

Ron - I had thought about using another door skin to stiffen things, but rejected the idea because a big piece wouldn't fit throught the little openings. But, when you suggested it I rethought and realized that it would go in via the window opening if the window and the mechanism were out. So I will consider that - even though I would have to cut up a good door to get the skin.

But, Jim said "If there is 7/8" clearance between the lowered window and the outer door skin something like the galvanized furring would be a cheap solution." And, there is at least that much room. So I'm thinking of how much stiffening that would give vs the door skin. I'm guessing that the buffeting is in the fore/aft direction, so the furring might give more support. But, I don't know. Thoughts?

Edit:' As I think about it further, another door skin inside the original one might not only stiffen the lower mounts but also the upper ones. Just remove the rivnuts, bond the piece in, and use nuts and washers to secure the mounts. I do have two sets of doors so could cut one set up.

 

Okay I'll offer one last thought. My one door had extensive damage near the leading edge.. Long story short, after I pulled the damage out with the uni-spotter I was left with an oil-canning door skin that I couldn't for the life of me make stiff again. So I fixed it the rookie way, by taking a strip of 22ga sheetmetal, lets say 1" by 18". I folded it to a 90* angle the long way, making a 18" x 1/2 x 1/2 L shaped thing, which was still pliable enough to be shaped to the curvature of the door, and I tack welded it in place on the inside of the door. Essentially a stiffener..

Also, think of your hood. The crossmembers that keep the hood stiff aren't necessarily the same shape as the hood, they don't touch it. But there are big gobs of adhesive that hold it in position. I believe new car mfg. do the same thing for doors now.

The 2 large pieces of metal sandwiched together idea, I think will be trouble in the future

 

Another vote for the hat channel bonded into the door.

You must know a commercial contractor around there Gary?