1973 F350 CREWCAB desert/dunes budget build by DirtyDeedsIndustries
#33
Thanks for the kind words guys
I had a very limited amount of time to work on the truck today but got to spend a good couple hours with it. I drove it around town today to get lunch and stop at 4wheel parts direct to inquire about a new rim to replace the really bent one my wife's truck.
After driving around I spent a little time trying to tune this awesome Carter LOL
I know you gotta be smarter than the equipment you're working with so that's why I'm asking you guys for help. Here's the problem:
At low rpm there is a bad hesitation. The harder you punch the throttle the more it does it. Sometimes it'll actually pop out of the carb, and sometimes it'll actuall die. I've adjusted the 2 little screws under the carb. Everytime I turn the screws out it seems to hesitate less. Problem is I've got em as far out as I can get em and the hesitation is WAY better, but is still there a little.
It's got new plugs and wires, cap and rotor, replaced all gaskets on top end and fixed all intake leaks, rebuilt carb including accelerator pump (which squirts out tons of fuel when you punch throttle) and timing is good.
Sorry for the long post.
I had a very limited amount of time to work on the truck today but got to spend a good couple hours with it. I drove it around town today to get lunch and stop at 4wheel parts direct to inquire about a new rim to replace the really bent one my wife's truck.
After driving around I spent a little time trying to tune this awesome Carter LOL
I know you gotta be smarter than the equipment you're working with so that's why I'm asking you guys for help. Here's the problem:
At low rpm there is a bad hesitation. The harder you punch the throttle the more it does it. Sometimes it'll actually pop out of the carb, and sometimes it'll actuall die. I've adjusted the 2 little screws under the carb. Everytime I turn the screws out it seems to hesitate less. Problem is I've got em as far out as I can get em and the hesitation is WAY better, but is still there a little.
It's got new plugs and wires, cap and rotor, replaced all gaskets on top end and fixed all intake leaks, rebuilt carb including accelerator pump (which squirts out tons of fuel when you punch throttle) and timing is good.
Sorry for the long post.
#34
#36
I'll double check, if I remember correctly I've got it set on the hole that squirts the most. I'll confirm this though.
#37
#38
I personally like the white spokes as well. However, I did paint a set for a tacoma. I used rustoleum Hammered:
Just to keep you thinking about white, here's a set I borrowed for mock up on my old truck:
I am a huge fan of "old school" since it reminds me of when I was a kid and these trucks were new. Don't try to update it too much
Just to keep you thinking about white, here's a set I borrowed for mock up on my old truck:
I am a huge fan of "old school" since it reminds me of when I was a kid and these trucks were new. Don't try to update it too much
#40
Alright! Thx guys for the pics. Anybody else plz keep em comin. The blue trick with white spokes really does it for me. My dads 67 was that same color. I'll track down and post up a pic when I get a chance.
I'm really leanin towards the white now. More nostalgic, and I don't have to do all that prep work
I'm building this into what someone back then would build, only with updated engine and suspension.
I'm really leanin towards the white now. More nostalgic, and I don't have to do all that prep work
I'm building this into what someone back then would build, only with updated engine and suspension.
#42
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Backwoods of western Pa
Posts: 683
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Not sure if you got your hesitation problem fixed yet, but another thing I'd suggest since you have an FE is to bump your timing up some and see what happens. If I remember right the stock specs are somewhere around 4* at idle, but they really like the idle timing to be up around 12* or so. I usually tune them in by ear by advancing the distributor until the idle speed stops increasing, them back it off until you notice the idle speed dropping slightly. Take a drive and get it hot, then romp on it a few times. If you notice any spark knock back it off a little more. Works good for a stock daily driver type motor if you don't have a timing light available (or the numbers are unreadable on the dampener). You'll be surprised at how much response and driveability this little bit of timing increase adds.
#43
Not sure if you got your hesitation problem fixed yet, but another thing I'd suggest since you have an FE is to bump your timing up some and see what happens. If I remember right the stock specs are somewhere around 4* at idle, but they really like the idle timing to be up around 12* or so. I usually tune them in by ear by advancing the distributor until the idle speed stops increasing, them back it off until you notice the idle speed dropping slightly. Take a drive and get it hot, then romp on it a few times. If you notice any spark knock back it off a little more. Works good for a stock daily driver type motor if you don't have a timing light available (or the numbers are unreadable on the dampener). You'll be surprised at how much response and driveability this little bit of timing increase adds.
#45
couple pics of the trucks last haul:
Everything that's important in my life right here:
I fired up the plasma cutter and cut the flatbed in key locations to remove it from the frame of the truck. It's strapped down until I go down to the recycling yard tomorrow. They'll weigh the truck before, pull the bed, then weigh it again and gimme my $5 for the scrap, LOL
I'll shoot pics when I'm there with my new phone (hopefully)
Everything that's important in my life right here:
I fired up the plasma cutter and cut the flatbed in key locations to remove it from the frame of the truck. It's strapped down until I go down to the recycling yard tomorrow. They'll weigh the truck before, pull the bed, then weigh it again and gimme my $5 for the scrap, LOL
I'll shoot pics when I'm there with my new phone (hopefully)