Jaw muscles are only needed for the inexperienced... I read something here on shifting a clarkson transmission that said to time it to queen "another one bites the dust"... you shift the spur gear to about 1/2 that speed - skip every other beat.

Time for those with a T-5 to chime in, I am stock T9 (spur gear crash box 4 speed).... I am curious to see what replies you get cause when my crash box sounds the death bell I doubt I will really want an auto in a truck (auto is for cars son, you can't pull a stump or tow a trailer with a slushbox!).

Lets see what answer you get Tyler, I'm all ears in anticipation of what the venerated have to say.

 

T5s shift fine.

The S10 version has the tailshaft housing that is the right length. It may not have the ratios you want. T5s require a bell, and in some cases an adapter if the bell you have wasn't an original T5 bell. Clutch actuation depends on your application.

T5 info:

TTC: TREMEC Transmissions

Modern Driveline - TREMEC T5 / TKO Transmission Conversion - 5 speed & 6 speed solutions to swap your Ford Mustang, Falcon, Cobra, Hotrod into Overdrive! Performance Parts

Ford Mustang: Mustang Tech: Transmission and Drivetrain: Borg Warner T5 Transmission data

T5 Swap, T5 Conversion, Mustang T5 Swap, Auto to Manual Transmission - FordMuscle

Option 3 - 300 + T-5

Identifying and Assembling a T5 5 Speed

 

How about...T-56 ?!


Maybe with some 4.xx back there too

(I'm a noob and have no experience or any clue what Im talking about)

 

Hey Tyler,
Here is the advice verbatim that my mechanics sent me when trying to decide what transmission to choose this past summer. I was starting with an old 3 speed auto. I had asked the question whether we should switch over to a Manual transmission... (We stayed with an automatic trans mainly because my wife doesn't drive manual & isn't interested in re-learning it - she had a strong tendency to burn out clutches too).

Ben in Austin

"Uh-oh...you brought up the M word. Manual...well, Ben...if I were building this truck, I wouldn't even consider an automatic. However, it does throw new variables into the mix. We have to find and hang a clutch pedal, rig up a clutch mechanism- cable or hydraulic- purchase a 5 speed, flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch arm, and pilot bearing. Then we have to find or fabricate a stick shift, and build a spot on the floor for the boot to attach. It's not hard, don't get me wrong. It is, however, a little expensive. The other issue, albeit minor, is the column. We'd have to buy an ididit or similar, or do a bit of research to find a column that will work, is not PRNDL, and does not use a three-on-the-tree configuration for the manual.
Personally, I think manuals are more fun, and certainly less problem to repair- if they ever break. Usually a clutch every 10 years is all you ever do.
This comes down to preference, pure and simple. The ratio of a 5 speed in top gear is very similar to the ratio of an auto aod, which is a plus, but is it worth it to go through all of the work involved in the changeover? It's just purely your call, my friend. Think it over and let us know- we're happy to do it, if it's what you want. We've converted quite a few autos to standards, it's familiar territory.

Do some research or ask on your forums and weigh the pros and cons. It looks like the auto option is going to be fairly pricey, no matter what- I'd guess in the $1250-ish range. I don't think the manual option would be too much more, probably $1500-ish. By the time you rebuild or purchase a rebuilt auto, flex plate and torque converter, buy fluid, plumb the cooling lines and add a cooler, you're just not too far off of the manual."

 

This is what I have in my F1:

79 351M Stroker
T5z Transmission Build by Modern Driveline - 5th gear = .73
Swing pedels out of a Jeep Cherokee






__________________________________________________ ________
46 Ford Tudor - Street Rod
48 Ford F1 - Darkside

"Happiness- 3 pedals and a 5 speed"

 

What's the truck going to be used for?

Tyler... I went back and re-read the 1st post again and even though I have followed several of your threads I don't have a super solid feel as to what you are using the truck for - and that is a question I think you need to have solid hard answer for sure before you pick transmission and rear end gearing.

I understand jr will be driving it, but are you going to put a $7k paint job on it and try to keep it show room finish - never hauling anything in the back, or towing anything - basically it becomes a 2 seater car.... Are you going to leave the patina as is and drive around a rustoration, will you do a $50 rattle can paint job and use it as a truck?

I started a spreadsheet of gear ratio and transmission choices - the more I look at it, the more I think AOD / leave rear if you will show it up, T5 /3.5-4.11 if you work it.

 

Brian my objective is a safe, reliable, comfortable daily driver for my 14 yr old son to drive when he's 16. And to do it MOSTLY ourselves in 18-24 months. We will go somewhere in between the rustoration and the 7000 dollar paint job. May leave the patina for a while then do a nice paint job. We have no plans to work the truck with heavy loads etc. Once in a while I am sure stuff will end up in the bed, sometimes something kinda heavy, but no regular hauling of a boat or travel trailer. But we want a manual transmission It may not be the most practical thing given all the nice automatics out there, but if we wanted practical we would have bought him a 2005 Honda Accord.

 

I wish I collected stamps!

 

MAACO.

They do all my daily drivers (thats all I have)
Shopping carts, keys, and grocery bags aren't a concern, and they do a pretty good job.

Or, buy your 14 Y.O. a fender, and a body shop book, and tell him to get to learning.

 

Ha ha! yeah, that essentially the advice I got from someone else too. Don't buy a kid a fancy paint job then lose your mind when he gets in a fender bender (as he certainly will as an inexperienced driver) or scrapes the side of the garage or whatever...

T

 

Hey Tyler,
You are going the right direction with the manual transmission. There aren't that many automatics to choose from & you have to have one before computerization in the mid-80's. So... Every automatic is 25+ years old. I went the AOD route & we've cratered 2 already & we haven't left the shop yet - they just seem to be pretty fragile.
If the third one craters I'm ripping out the automatic column, etc. & going manual.

Ben in Austin

 

Ben make sure you let us know if you give up on the AOD's...I have one and haven't touched it yet. That's a bummer though...Bet you can pull that thing out and back in pretty quick though!

 

Whether or not you get a workout from clutching and shifting depends entirely on the clutch you have, not the transmission. The heavier the springs in the pressure plate, the heavier it will feel on your leg. T5's use a diaphragm clutch as opposed to the Long style with 3 fingers and heavy springs. They work a lot easier and lighter. They also use a cable or hydraulic throwout linkage, which is a bit smoother than the traditional mechanical linkage. The T5 will shift butter smooth, like your Honda, as opposed to the old fashioned rowing you'll do with an original 3 or 4 speed. All these things combined will make swapping to the newer trans a pleasure to drive. The hard part is setting it all up.

Changing the pedal to swinging from floor mount will ease the installation, as more parts are readily available to make it happen. Having the 351W already will make the swap easy as bellhousings are going to be cheap and plentiful, since it'll be the same part used in Mustangs for nearly 20 years. Balance was mentioned somewhere here earlier, and that won't be an issue as long as you use a flywheel for a 351. 302's after 1981 use a different balance weight on the flywheel and front balancer. The last issue will be modification of the trans crossmsmber to make it all fit between the rails. If you've made it this far, that part isn't going to be a big deal. It's just basic welding and fabrication.

I think I've covered all the big questions. Did I miss anything? ;-)

 

Tyler you sound like my kind of guy

I did get a bid for a paintjob (took the truck to get quotes for painting rims), very pro shop - they do 1 classic per year, and 2-3 hundred modern collision repairs (lots of black ice in Denver). Cost - $7,000 and 8 months. Sooooo my throwing out some random $7k wasn't entirely a tease, it is the going price for a trailer queen it sounds like.

I have a number of body boo boo on mine, and I plan on scuffing it and taking it to maaco as well - can't drive around an eyesore.

I (myself) would never put an auto in a truck, trucks are meant for doin not lookin - but I don't want to sound all hard *** on my own opinion so I lay it all out.

I went with a 3.00 gear ratio as you probably got from my other postings/threads, and let me give you this thought: Having driven it now for a month I will not match a 3.00 with a T5 or LD 3 speed or HD 3 speed, the final drive ratio is too low and the clutch will suffer too much. So if you are going T5, let me advise a 3.500 ratio would be lowest to give you highway speeds and low end power without burning up clutches.

 

Let me throw this out there re: paint.

Maaco's are franchises, and their quality varies markedly depending on the franchisee. The one here produces $2000 paint jobs that I could match with a towel and bucket of Rustoleum. But I've seen MAACO jobs from other towns that look tremendous.

On the other hand, there are lots of painters (the actual techs who spray) who realize working for a big shop and pushing out 20 jobs a week is not fair use of their talents, and strike out on their own. A lot of these small shops have a bodywork guy and a spray guy teamed up. My experience is they do a lot better job for the $$, are more likely to allow you to be involved, more flexible in choosing what gets done (vs. a mysterious "Presidential Package" at a fixed price).

Just ask around at shows and friends who've had something painted, you can find a good deal.