Hey Everyone,

Pretty new here, have only posted a couple times but I am looking for some advice from you truck guys...

My situation:

I have a 2004 f-350 6.0L Lariat that has just over 66k miles on it. Bought it brand new from the dealer. Only aesthetic/suspension/tire mods...nothing to internals.

Ford ran diagnostics on it and Its looking like the EGR/oil cooler needs fixing as I am blowing white smoke, engine over heats, coolant drains to empty etc etc...They said they have to fix that problem before they can determine if head gaskets need fixing....great.

I have heard nothing but terrible things about the 6.0L, my mom actually had one and replaced it within several years after it broke down repeatedly.

I am thinking about cutting my losses, selling/trading it in on something more reliable. I dont want to fix the current problem only to have it continually break on me....aka money pit. Not to mention, it needs new dust rings, 4x4 alignment, AC work, and several other small things to be fixed on it....

I am a truck guy so I'm focusing on trucks. Furthermore, I like Ford and would like to stay with ford if they have a reliable engine/vehicle

Here are my questions:

How is the new 2012 6.7L diesel in terms of reliability and longevity?

How is the gas engine in the 2012 f250/350s?

Is ford coming out with anything in the next year or two that would make it worth waiting a while to purchase a new truck? after a little digging I couldnt find anything...

Pros and Cons between f-150 and f250?

I dont really want to look at Dodge but is the Cummins really a superior engine to what ford has?

Pros and Cons between todays Gas vs. diesel engines?


I know Im asking a lot of questions...most of which are probably pretty stupid but any advice, insight, and input is greatly appreciated.

 

First off, I would ask a mod to bump this to the 6.0 section for you. I will give you my input, but I am by no means anywhere near as knowledgeable as some of the people on here.

As far as the 6.0 being a money pit, don't buy the hype. For a few grand you can make these trucks very strong and reliable. Yes, the EGR, oil cooler, and head gaskets/studs are the problems, but compared to what you'd be out as far as $$ swapping to a 2012 6.7L, I think you could easily fix what's wrong. And with low mileage like you have, it's definitely what I'd do. First of all, you DO NOT have to fix your egr and oil cooler to see if the gaskets are blown. Yes, they will need to be replaced, but you can do everything at once. I'd be suspicious of extra labor costs they're trying to get. A simple test of your coolant system pressure should tell you. If you are above 8psi (I think it's 8psi), you probably have issues. If your head gaskets are popped, then compression from the engine leaks into your coolant system. That has nothing to do with the EGR and oil cooler. Cost will vary depending on how you decide to go about fixing your EGR and oil cooler setup. I personally did a $200 EGR delete kit. Some will disagree with this, since it is illegal, and if you don't fix other issues, it's just a band aid. Different strokes for different folks. Lots of options for oil coolers. I went back with a new stocker. And as for my head gaskets, I had my truck driven from Arkansas to North Carolina by a buddy to have them done by one of, if not the top 6.0 shop in the country. With fuel, studs, gaskets, and machining the heads I was out $3K. Figure another $500-$1000 depending on your EGR and oil cooler fix. Go another $150 for a coolant bypass filter and you are sitting pretty.

As far as the 2012 6.7L, I don't know much about them. But, they haven't been out that long. It's tough to make long term assessments yet.

Pros and cons between 150 and 250? For me it was a solid front axle 4x4 and the diesel option. I don't think you will be happy going back to gas after driving a diesel. That goes double if you are gonna step back into a gasser 250 or 350. Plenty of people are happy with their gas engines, and that's fine. Again, different strokes for different folks. For me, I couldn't give up the power and mileage in the same truck, irregardless of the other "cons" of owning a diesel, like fuel and oil change costs.

Hope that helps.

 

Complete agreement! For just a few thousand buck you can make that 6.0L bullet proof. EGR delete and ARP head studs are the way too go!

 

Chances are that you dont have a head gasket failure. If you say there are no engine mods then fix the EGR cooler either by deleting or replacing with a Bullett proof unit, rebuild or replace the oil cooler, get the coolant filter installed flush the system with VC9, fill with fresh coolant and drive on.

I was in the same boat as you a little while back, my ESP will run out in Febreuary so the wife and I were looking to get back into a 5ver and talk came up about replacing the truck. So we went shopping, I found what I liked, I saw the price and nearly pooped myself. My wife signed the permission slip but I couldnt do it. If and when the time comes and I need head gaskets I will stud if, put in a Bullet proof cooler new turbo and 155's and have a great truck. Then again I have 67k on mine and its never left me on the side of the road and ahs always done what I asked. Have I had some issues yup, but for the price of a new truck I just cant do it. I know what I have and to mod a 2012 with everything on mine Im looking at another 5k worth of work on top of the initial cost.

Just my .02,

Sarge

 

Same here. I've got over 70K and the only failure I've ever had was an exhaust back pressure solenoid fail at about 69K. No mechanical failures or break downs...ever. Yes, I educated myself and addressed somethings before they got the opportunity to strand me, but still, 70K with only a $120 solenoid failure is pretty damn good to me.

 

When I first read the OP, I thought about moving it. However, after reading the "questions" at the bottom of the post, this thread could literally go in four different forums. So, for now I'll leave it here.

To the OP, you may consider posting some of these questions in the 6.7 forum, the 2009+ F-150 forum, and the 6.2L Gas V8 forum. To be honest, a lot of the new truck owners tend to hang out in those forums and not many venture over here....especially F-150 owners. You'll likely get better responses about the newer engines in those respective forums.

 

plus the $$$ to make it reliable after you educated yourself

 

Maybe so. However, I did the fixes in the late 60K range, and the truck was always reliable. I made the modifications as a precaution, not as the result of any issues I was having. So, I still stand by that statement, regardless of the money spent.

 

I have an 2005 6.0L and I would have to agree on everything that has been posted so far concerning these engines. I have about 60K on mine and the only problem so far was the turbo vains sticking. I took it apart myself cleaned it and have had no more problems and the cost was zero. I did educate myself early on about these engines and put some gauges in that I thought were important and also a coolant filter. I have cut several of them open when changed and have found about a table spoon of sand in them. If and when the time comes I will do like many others and make the mods to have an engine that is bullet proof, but for now no worries.

 

Can't thank yall enough for the advice. Sounds like I can put a couple grand into the truck to make it reliable.

After reading everything, it looks like I need the following:

- ARP bolts
- EGR delete (brand suggestions?)
- New oil cooler (?)
- Coolant filter (?)

any brand or manufacturer suggestions are appreciated as well as any other advice yall have.

Can I have the 'auto repair' shop order everything or should I do it and take them the parts?

 

Make sure you have your heads checked when you do studs. They may need machining, but that was included in my $3K I mentioned.

For EGR delete, I went with River City Diesel. It was a rather cheap kit, I think $200-$250 at the time. Straight forward, no shiny show off parts.

I bought a new oil cooler from Ford. Unless you do serious towing, a stocker replacement will do fine (after you do all the fixes!) Check Tousley Ford on the internet. They have excellent parts prices. Can't remember what I paid. Someone may need to be a little more specific on the oil cooler, because I think you can by certain pieces or the whole thing. A buddy does all my wrench work when I'm in the sandbox, so I forget exactly what I order sometimes.

I sourced my bypass coolant filter from DieselSite for around $150 with an extra filter or two.

I would definitely clean the turbo while you're at it, if you can. It has to come off anyways (or upgrade to a Powermax ). And also do a VC 9 flush of your coolant system.

I would source the parts yourself. Especially with this stuff coming from different vendors.

 

wow, thanks for all the advice! Ive put a list together of your suggested parts, let me know what you think

Looks like for the EGR delete I can go with
http://www.rivercitydiesel.com/index...mart&Itemid=54

or I can include RCD oil cooler with it and get this package
http://www.rivercitydiesel.com/index...mart&Itemid=54

on the ford parts website there are 2 options for oil coolers. Both are expensive but the 'complete' kit is obviously more pricey...would I have to order the complete kit?
Buy 2004 Ford F-350 Super Duty Parts | FordParts.com

is this the bypass coolant filter from dieselsite?
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...waterpump.aspx

For the VC 9 flush...what do I need to supply them (repair shop) with or will they have whatever is needed for a vc9 flush? (I don't even know what it is...noob here.)

let me know if I forgot anything else!

 

That is the coolant bypass system and EGR delete that I used. I will see if I can get someone to come answer up about what oil cooler would serve you best. Be sure to get 2 or 3 extra filters for the coolant bypass. I think it's recommended to do a filter swap within 1500 miles after your systems flush. After that, it's like every 10K.

VC-9 is a chemical designed to flush your coolant system. It'll help break up sludge and deposits. I don't know how much you'll need, but a search on here should tell you, as it's very common. You'll also need to provide the shop with new coolant. I know a lot of people are getting away from the Ford gold stuff because it's been discovered to breakdown and leave crap floating around in your system.

Motorcraft diesel engine coolant system iron cleaner VC9

 

Are ARP head studs/bolts really +$400?

ARP 250-4202 6.0L Head Stud - Ford Powerstroke 6.0

anyone know of a less expensive place to get ARP bolts for a 2004 6.0L?

 

http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/part...layCatalogid=0


is that the correct stock oil cooler assembly I would need (2nd one down?)