What is the consensus out there with you guys, on restoring body side moldings on the 65'? I'm in the process of finding someone close to me that can strip down the old anodized coating, take all the dings out of the metal, polish it, and re-anodize it. Would it be better to just leave it un-anodized or go ahead and re-anodize it. I'm thinking about the long term. I'm wondering if maybe I do not anodize the metal, the aluminum will turn dull sooner over time. Any and all thoughts on this will surely be appreciated.
Thank you guys, Fritz

 

It is cheaper to buy a complete new set of trim from Dennis Carpenter than it is to strip repair polish and anodize.

Work up the math on a spread sheet.

Garbz

 

I agree with Garbz; 65-66 repo chrome side moulding; I purchase a set from Mac's Auto back in 02 put on a 65 F100; kept it clean and waxed; still shines as new. Only down fault; stuff pop overseas.

 

This certainly doesn't apply to your situation but I pulled a full set of body trim from the junk yard last year, paid $50.00 nicked a bit and dirty and hell, just cleaned it up last week and I was amazed at how good it looks, I'd considered doing without the trim, painting it or trying to polish but I'm just restoring the truck to a driver and the anodization (sp) is a bit uneven and cloudy but it sort of matches the feel of the truck, can't wait to get it on the truck after paint.

 

The last i understood it the straight trim is produced at carpenters facility in Concord.

You have to think of it in terms of time is money.

A. Stripping with caustic chemicals. Runs about 100 bucks even if you build a trough and line it yourself and use easy off.

B. Tapping dings and dents and polish. about 8 to 10 hours involved depending on abuse. about 1000.00

C. If you do not have them re-anodized they will oxidize milky white. A pain in the **** to keep shiny. Say 10 hours at 100 bucks an hour shop rate another 1000.00 bucks

D. If you can actually find someone to anodize it possibly a fee of 200 to 300 for a short clear run.

So your combined restoration can amount to 2200 to 2300 depending an which route you take.

Everyone forgets that even if you do the work yourself time is money and has value.

Garbz





Garbz

 

The last I checked in '09 or so I was quoted a C note per piece regardless of size... Obviously you want the best parts you can find to begin with but anything can be fixed... Even welding new tabs on if thats an issue in the case of the grilles.
I dunno if the moldings are made here that DC sells... But given the number of dies per piece and their sizes times the number of pieces on 65-66 pickups....7 as the hood and cowl are same L/R... Times the different molfings used on bumps and dents... I kinda doubt they stamp the aluminum moldings here...
As for buying repop vs restore OE mldgs...I'm reminded of something I've seen on many a GM air cleaner... Which I apply to Fords too...'Keep Your GM all GM'....or very similar... You get the idea though...


- cs65

 

It's still all "Ford" if you install repro parts. It's not like you're putting Chevy moldings on your truck. All of these pieces are either stamped from the original dies or from new ones reverse engineered from a Ford part.

It never ceases to amaze me that people will split hairs over stuff like this, worrying about where it is made, yet everyone has a phone, TV, major and minor appliances, etc of which virtually none are made in the USA. That boat has long sailed and there's nothing we can do about it.

 

2011 paper version of DC's 1957/66 truck repro catalog ~ page 111.

C5TZ-16722-A .. R/L Hood Moulding: $120.00 each.

C5TZ-8102328-A .. R/L Cowl Panel Moulding: $40.00 each.

C5TZ-8120938-PR .. Door Moulding: $230.00 pair.

C5TZ-8142316-PR .. Cab Corner Moulding: $70.00 pair,

C5TZ-9929038-APR .. Long Bed Side Moulding-includes clips: $220.00 pair.

C5TZ-9929038-BPR .. Short Bed Side Moulding-includes clips: $200.00 pair.

C5AZ-6310198-A .. Moulding Clip: $2.75 each.

The door, cab corner and bedside mouldings are right/left specific.

The moulding clip part number is a DC "invention" for these trucks, so...it's not what these clips really are.

If y'all find any NOS, they'll fit just fine on a 1967 F100/250 Styleside rocker panel mldg and/or 1965/66 Galaxie/LTD rocker panel mldg. Otherwise...

 

Bill, what do you think of Carolina Classics? I found their prices to be a bit lower for the molding.

 

Considering manufacturing costs, I cannot see Carolina Classics (or any other repop seller) repopping these mouldings when DC is already doing them.

So, IMO...Carolina is buying the mouldings from DC. Compare Carolina's 2011 catalog prices to DC's 2011 catalog prices.

I have a Carolina Classics printed catalog, the prices for these mouldings are less (CC: $688.00 long bed set vs DC: $840.00), but it's the April 2008 edition.

 

Or you can just do it yourself. Buy some anodize remover. Then pick and file as needed. sand down to 1000grit and polish. At that point clear them. leave them alone or have them clear anodized again. You should be able to do all your moldings yourself for under 100.00 and a bit of elbow grease. Every month or so hit them with a good aluminum polish.

 

and what grit paper is safe to start with? i have been going up to 600 and then polishing but it takes some effort

 

I have a complete set of 65-66 side moulding for the long bed that is dent and ding free, Polished to a beautiful shine. I also have a set for 63-64 minus one cowl piece. These are also polished.
I'm not trying to sell these but if anyone has any ideas on what I should do with them, send me a P.M.
I did do the 63-64 for a friend, but he has decided to try his hand at doing it himself. I'll hold on to the 63-64 just in case. The 65-66 may go on my truck, not sure yet.

 

Bill, Carolina Classsic price for a complete set is $627+ tax/shipping. I thought that was a great price. DC wanted around $800+ T/S if I read it correctly. If you say that CC gets there stuff from DC, how can they sell it for that much less? Hey, I don't know, I can only go by what I see. Lord knows I've been screwed before.

 

Bill, I have found if you remove the anodizing with a proper remover you can then buff with no sanding. Apply remover, rinse and then buff. Of course any dings dents or scratches will have to be sanded out but the entire piece does not. I only strip the outside and leave anodizing on inner portion.

If the anodizing is removed by either glass beading or sanding then it makes it a ton more work. Some times as course as 80-100 grit then finer as needed but up to P800 or 1000. I found the 3m P series papers work the best and last the longest. Compounds and wheels used are also HUGE to finished product.

I plan on doing a how to once I get moved into new place.
If you want to practice I have a entire set for you to try it out on... LOL