If any of you run across a D8VE 302 block, be advised now, do not pass on these little known gems. The ones with the A3A suffix have the big Hi-po/Mexican main caps and are for all intents and purposes, 289 Hi-Po/Mexican blocks. Those with a 3A suffix are the same blocks, but have the std main caps. In addition to this info, I have found in weighing several early blocks that the Mexican block is the same as the early blocks in weight. They are no thicker than the other early (pre 1980) blocks.

 

Is this from your own observation of cylinder blocks? If so could you provide pictures?

This is intriguing information, but only if you have actually seen it.

 

As of this moment,(all are for sale) I've got a D1ZM Mex block, a D8VE-A3A block, a D8VE 3A block and a C8OE block in my possesion. All four are stipped down, cleaned and have the main caps bolted down. I weighed all four blocks. The Mex block weighs 136 lbs (std bore), The D8VE-A3A weighs 134 lbs (it's 60 over bore), the C8OE weighs 135 lbs (std bore) as does the D8VE-3A (20 overbore). I'm unable to post pics here, but can email them to anyone interested.

 

I HAVE A D8VE-0615-ASA
WITH EITHER 806 OR 6 UNDER THEM NUMBERS. DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY INFO ON WHAT I HAVE? PLEASE AND THANKS

 

You've misread the letters here, your "S" should be a "3". The 8O6 is the date code, that's eight "D (not zero) six, meaning it was cast on the sixth day of April ("D") 1978. Congrats, you've got the big main capped block, for all intents and purposes the same as the 289 Hi-Po/Mexican block.

 

Whats a a3a block worth?

 

Being as it's the same casting as the Mex blocks, it should be worth whatever they go for.

 

Can I find the block stamping with the motor assembled? If so... exactly where.

Nate

 

Yes, get under the vehicle and look above the starter. Both the Engineering(casting) numbers and the date code are there.

 

Unless it's a roller block, then the numbers are on the drivers side bottom rear corner, the date code is on the flat area at very rear at the bottom, facing down.

 

newbie alert lol sorry guys I'm new to this stuff. I have been searching for a good 302 block to build up and put in my 85 f150 that I've already swapped efi to carb. I ran across one of these D8VE-6015 blocks the guy had it boiled and bored 60 over and has brass freeze plugs in and it comes with a crank he said has been shaved.... like I said I'm a newbie, would this work with my aod transmission after I built it up and is $250 a fair price for it? I understand my 85 302 is a roller engine, what's the difference if any? If this is an ideal block for my project would gt 40 heads work with it? Thanks in advance for any answers and advice you can provide

 

Your 85 F150 may or may not have a roller block. Only a check of the casting numbers will confirm this. If it does, it will not have a roller cam in it, if it's the original engine to that truck. Now for your question: $250 would be a fair price for a std bore D8VE-A3A block, but not for one that's been bored to 60 over without having the pistons with the machinist so that the bores can be finished honed to fit the pistons. 60 over isn't a problem with that block, as long as the cores are not shifted enough to leave some portions of the walls thin. A close look at the bottoms of the cores will confirm this. I'd give it a good inspection before handing over any cash. You should never bore any block without the pistons in hand. In any case that block has 24-26 more pounds of iron in it than your 85 block has. That is a plus.

 

Another idea is to search out a good Exploder engine, 1996 and up and use the long block from it. These are roller cam engines, put out good power, have hardened exhaust seats and come with GT40 or GT40p heads, probably the best stock heads Ford made.

 

And more then likely the engine is still in good shape if that SUV is in the junk yard due to crash damage. Which means that you may be able to just put in fresh rings and bearings after a light hone of the cylinders. You can reuse the pistons, etc. if they check out OK and this will save you cash!

 

...or, if the engine is fairly low mileage (nowadays fuel injected engines last a long time), you can just run it, leaving the insides alone.