I assembled most of the passenger door guts last night. Had to take a few things out because I had no idea the correct sequence. This is how I think it goes. I might make a video or at lest take some photos when I do the drivers side. Info with this kind of detail seems scarce as hens teeth so I might start a new "how-to" thread with this if I take photos or make a video.

1. sound deader on inside of outer skin if'n you are doing that.

2. vent window assembly, outside handle and lock

3. set window inside the access hole and stand it in bottom of the door. Otherwise it will be difficult to get in there if you do it after no. 4.

4. Install division bar. The division bar is the front channel and I might call it that later. Don't tighten the screws until the window is in place and the final adjustment is made. Mine needed to be mostly forward int he slotted holes at the top and toward the back at the bottom for a good fit for the window. Also, I put some blue masking tape in the paint where the division bar slides thru the slot to help protect the paint. Getting the division bar in the access hole is tight but insert the upper end in first and angle it up toward the upper hinge. Roll it over until the lower bracket is facing you and wiggle it around some and it will just barely fit in there. I taped the upper end with 2 layers of blue making tape to help avoid scratching the paint inside the door. If your truck sets out in the rain the inside of the door will be wet.

5. Install the back window channel. Mid Fifty call this the Upper & back channel but I'll call it the back channel. The lower end has to be inserted down thru the back end of the window slot so I put some blue masking tape on both sides of the slot to help protect paint. Push the channel into the slot and push it into place. Keep the bend at the upper back corner of the window opening tight in the corner. You can either go ahead and pop the push pins in now or do it after no. 8. You might get a better fit if you wait. The push pins pop into a slotted hole and have some adjustment up and down. On the first door I almost got it too low for the lock side channel bracket to fit.

6. Install anti rattlers. I'm not sure if the chrome bead on mine are supposed to go inside the rear channel of between the channel and door. The clips on new ones are tough to pop in and the second one is difficult to get into place and avoid scratching paint with the clips.

7. Slide the window up between front channel and the back channel. It will be very tight or maybe won't go all the way up if you didn't pop the back channel push pins into the slots but I think all you need right now is to get the top of the window a little above the sill.

8. Install the back channel bracket. I got the wrong one installed on the first door and had to switch it out. Maybe I'll take a photo to help you ID left and right. The upper end of the back channel bracket has a slot that engages a tab on the back side of the channel. A new one will be stiff. The window will help hold the channel and you'll have to push the bracket up into place. This will also push the back channel up into position and that is why it might be best to pop the push pins into place after this is done. There is a metal tab at the bottom of the bracket to hold the bottom of the back channel but mine is mostly rusted off. I might try a ss sheet metal screw here to hold the bottom of back channel but it may need to slide up and down a little to keep from buckling. Install the screws to make sure it fits and make all window adjustments including the division bar and tighten screws.

9. Install the latch. Push window to the top and tape it in place (mine was too stiff to fall but maybe old channels and felts may not be tight enough to hold the window at the top). Remove the back channel bracket screws and move the bracket as needed to slip the latch behind it. Get the lock pin in the right hole and insert the latch through the door jam. Install latch screws and then install bracket screw.

10. Install door handle regulator. Either there is no right and left or I have two of the same side. The rod has a slotted hole on the latch end and the latch has a oval head pin so position the rod vertically to slid over the oval head and then swing it up into position.

11. Install window regulator. I installed universal electric window regulators so I've no idea how this works for OEM regulators. My electric assembly barely fit into the access hole with everything else in place. It fit ok when mocking it up. I guess a 1/8 inch of deadner almost foiled my plan. I also have the old regulator base with the power window switch (see previous post) to install and some wiring to do.

 

That sounds a lot like my 52, mine has the distributor in the wrong place too. I still need a driveshaft, doors back on, bed, glass put in, and a few other minor details. Keep up the good work, I am inspired once again!

 

All I can say is if I put the progress I'm making on my build beside a glacier I would lose. I wasn't going to tear out my seat and steering column until I got the front fenders done but did anyway. I raised the seat 3 inches and extended the steering column 4 inches and got it all back together tonight. I also hung the inner fenders and air deflectors. the fenders and front roll pan are almost ready to paint.

 

Red neck paint booth. Unlike the rest of you, it's been too wet and too cool to do this outside but I wanted to get the front roll pan and fenders sprayed at the same time. I'm not sure if my neighbors appreciate this. I told them that I'd do it another day if they had company coming but they said they were getting their deck ready for a party on the 4th but they disappeared inside when I started spraying. I use a HVPL that I borrow from work so it's not too bad and I'm just spraying enamel without hardener.


Next stop - hanging more sheet metal.

 

I finally got the fenders on it and waited in line at the DMV for an hour to get the tags. My youngest got married July 14 and my parents were here from Michigan so I gave my mom a ride.


toothless grin


still a lot of work to do on that bed

 

Before I got it on the road I had to fix 2 problems in the cab. The steering column was too short so I added about 4 inches and I didn't like the seating position so I raised it 3 inches in the front and 1.5 inches in the back. I also moved the steering column to the left about 1.5 inches to align it with the drivers seat position. It's not centered in the instrument cluster anymore but the steering wheel is directly in front of the drivers seat position. This wouldn't have been a problem with a stock bench seat but the truck came with a very nice newly upholstered seat that is contoured.

 

I am really liking the color. It is very close to what I will be going for, that glacial blue. You've got a very nice project.

 

Thanks Aaron. It's nice to get a reply. My "don't look if you don't like Chevy stuff" has worn off so maybe I should do some fresh flaming like the "F100 on an Explorer frame" thread and get some discussion going.

Anyway, Saturday I'm out working on my 54 a little and my neighbor yells at me "hey, can you use this?" Holy cow, what a deal. You know the Chevy fan is no where near the radiator center line and a DYI shroud is going to be a lot of work and look like crap.

Exactly the right size too.

 

Hey Dan, it's looking great! I have looked several times, but I try to say on track, and skip past posting..No complaints here! What is the fan from?

 

No complaints here either. I've been busy with my sons wedding and a motorcycle trip to South Dakota. Not much time to work on the truck let alone post some progress reports. My neighbor's dad had the fan on a 55 Chevy. It was part of a custom radiator package but it didn't work so he replaced it with a different unit. Then he found out the problem was the radiator was plugged. He got his money back on the radiator but they wouldn't take the fan. Something like that. It's a little under 24 inches wide and it should be easy to fab the brackets needed to bolt it to my rad. It's just exactly what I was planning to buy but I was putting it off until I get more money. I'll probably hook it to a manual switch int he cab for now and work on getting a temp switch later on down the road.

 

woo hoo. I got the free fan installed. It's a SPAL dual 11 inch high performance paddle fan and makes about 2000 cfm at 1/2" H2O and pulls 33 amps. It's just hooked up to a pair of relays (one for each fan - that 33 amps took me by surprise, glad I checked the manufacturers data) to a toggle switch on the dash (and the idiot light sensor) right now. I'll work on getting a lower temp sensor for it. Is a 200 degree sensor for the fan about right? What are idiot light sensors usually set at?

 

Hey Dan,
That fans looks great - fits that space perfectly. Keep us posted on what you do with the fan temp switch. I've got a '50 F1 & I just put in a lower 180 degree thermostat but my fan doesn't kick on till it's hotter.
I'm thinking of going to a lower temp setting on my fan to match the thermostat - Is that something you are considering?

Looking good over there!

Ben in Austin

 

Nice! Looks like it was made for it

 

thanks Ben,

no, I'll stay with the stock 195 stat and look for a temp sender that is a little higher to control the fan. The idiot light sender is probably 250 but I think I can find one a little lower. I don't see a need to have the fan come on at the same temp that the stat opens. I assume on newer vehicles with OEM electric fans that cycle on and off when idling that the set points are a little higher than what the stat is.

 

Next step ain't happinin until I find some serious funding. P1110115 - YouTube