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Locking Gas Door Mod

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  #16  
Old 09-11-2011, 12:31 AM
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I had that same idea when looking for a locking fuel door. But was going to use one of the locks that come with the rear seats. but didnt have the guts to start drilling into my new truck at that time instead i just ran a small cable through a hole i driiled into the inside of the box and hooked to an eye that i mounted. keeps the little devils out but if you where to look in the box it would be easy to figure out!!!
 
  #17  
Old 09-11-2011, 08:36 AM
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Great idea and job! I would have never thought of this on my own. It will suffice for my needs. I just want to deter theft at the train station. Usually the people steeling fuel, etc. move fast and to the path of least resistance.
 
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:58 AM
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p12483 et all

thanks for the info and additional support advice. Why did you put masking tape on the door?

This enables me to do the job myself. . . .ken
 
  #19  
Old 09-11-2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 720Deere
I was going to say that it looks like the same lock that is used all over RVs and they seem to hold up just fine. They even make a more secure model with a circular style key. The problem with the regular key is that probably 80% of all people that own RVs have the same key!

I like the mod, simple and very easy overall. Taking the door off and drilling the hole over a block of hardwood should reduce/eliminate the denting. Low RPM on the drill bit is important as well as keeping the door in a solid position.

Most RV parts and services centers (Camping World) stock replacement locks for storage compartments made for outdoor use. They come in differents lengths. I recently changed out each of the locks on my Raptor 5th wheel to get away from the CH751 key that is commonly used on many RV's. I went with the "round" key type lock as seen on sode and other vending machines. This type of lock is somewhat less used then then CH751 key lock.

Check out this link to these locks at Amazon.com: Amazon.com: Camco 44293 5/8" RV ACE Key Baggage Lock: Automotive .

Can also be seen at the Camping World web site: Prime Products - 5/8" Ace Storage Door Locks, 4-pack - Locks & Fasteners - Camping World .

Hope this helps someone.
 
  #20  
Old 09-12-2011, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by kabur66
p12483 et all

thanks for the info and additional support advice. Why did you put masking tape on the door?

This enables me to do the job myself. . . .ken
The masking tape was used to protect the finish from any metal coils or anything else that could damage it. Just drill right through the tape. I also used some clear enamel to protect the around the inside of the hole where the exposed metals could rust down the road... i think the metals aluminum, but better safe than sorry.
 
  #21  
Old 09-12-2011, 11:32 AM
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Nice mod. There are bits, called Unibits or Step Bits that are made specifically for putting round holes in thin materials. Using one would likely prevent the metal distortion.
 
  #22  
Old 09-12-2011, 11:45 AM
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Talking

Originally Posted by p12483
Did a little research and went online to a Marine store. They have they have the same locks and say they are stainless steel and zinc coated I believe. I live in fl so seizure in winter is not much of an issue. I was even thinking of how to attach a electric lock actuator to the fuel door. Just thinking outside the box.
I just wish the GFs cats wouldnt think outside the box!!!GEESH
 
  #23  
Old 09-12-2011, 02:22 PM
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I would use a hole saw instead of a large bit. That would make it a lot eaiser to avoid distorting the metal.
 
  #24  
Old 09-12-2011, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by p12483
Ya I sprayed the inners good with wd40 next time I'm at a marine store I'm gonna see if they have a similar lock. But I've used these before and they hold up fine if I have to change it out in few years no big deal
Check out the RV and Marine dealers for a new lock that is made for outdoor useage. I googled locks for my RV storage compartments and got a outfit in California that has all kinds of locks with short and long locking arms, prices were reasonable too. Camping World sells a small assortment of locks that might do the trick also. Nice Mod and pics!
 
  #25  
Old 09-12-2011, 03:01 PM
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Stupid post, wth was I thinking? LOL!!
 
  #26  
Old 09-15-2011, 03:00 PM
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So i did go ahead and order an automotive rated lock. Looks the same other than the dust cover. Just make sure you order a 5/8 shaft. anything else will be too long and allow the door to open to much. I did have to use the cam off the old one, as the one supplied was too long. Either way i think i would have been fine, as the only difference in the two locks was the dust cover. here is the lock installed

Amazon.com: JR Products 00155 5/8" Compartment Door Key Lock: Automotive
 
  #27  
Old 09-15-2011, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by p12483
So i did go ahead and order an automotive rated lock. Looks the same other than the dust cover. Just make sure you order a 5/8 shaft. anything else will be too long and allow the door to open to much. I did have to use the cam off the old one, as the one supplied was too long. Either way i think i would have been fine, as the only difference in the two locks was the dust cover. here is the lock installed

Amazon.com: JR Products 00155 5/8" Compartment Door Key Lock: Automotive
this key lock is much cheaper than I thought

 
  #28  
Old 12-30-2011, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 720Deere
The "white flames" are a sticker with the directions for remote start. In the 11 months that I've had my truck that sticker has started to wear thin.

I like the idea of the locking fuel door. It has to be almost impossible to put a 3/4" hole in metal that thin without some sort of distortion.
You can use an Electricians punch or "knockout" punch to cut a clean hole in the metal without distortion.

Knockout Punch Kit - Knockout Punches at Harbor Freight Tools
 
  #29  
Old 12-30-2011, 01:34 PM
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I think you will find the 1/2" conduit knock out is close to 7/8" IIRC; however you can purchase these knock-outs in various other sizes and shapes. There probably one shaped for the lock with the flats. I actually have the Greenlee conduit set; and a few others including a 3/4". Use to use them for holes to mount my antennas to the roof; typically above dome lamp. No distortion to the metal; if you tighten square to surface!

They use to be pricy though. Look on ebay for "chassis punch" and you can find some that are not conduit sized.

Bob
 
  #30  
Old 12-30-2011, 01:37 PM
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Here is a punch for the cam lock hole! Ouch!

Metal Punch, Cam Lock (Double D)
 


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