Here is what I have:
460 D1VE block - rebuilt D3VE heads - I believe the valve springs are a stock replacement - nothing special; ported exhaust, Hedman fulll length headers, Edelbrock 750 cfm, Performer intake manifold.

Here are the cams I am considering:
I am not a racer and the truck is still used for hauling cargo and street use. But, I figured since I have the motor apart, this would be the time to do this. I already picked up a set of the hydraulic lifters that Summit sells in the cam and lifter kits - so I am just looking for the cam. I have read that Summit cams are a decent budget cam as long as they are broken in properly.

If it makes any difference, I will be running dual 2.5" from the headers all the way back.

My first choice:
Summit Racing SUM-3500 - Summit Racing® Camshafts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Second choice:
Summit Racing SUM-3501 - Summit Racing® Camshafts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Am I on the right track with one of these cams?

Thanks.

 

I have used both in my mostly stock engine.
What's your rpm range at highway speed? (gearing and tire size play a role)
What gearbox or transmission do you have?
How much weight do you intend to carry or tow?

For me, with a T-19, stock tire sizes and a 4.10 rear the 3500 cam ran out of steam too soon for the way I drive.
Now that I've swapped in the zF5 perhaps things would be different because rev's are lower on the highway.
But I don't know.

IMO, R/V cams are good for just that. You're not looking for tire smoking acceleration, just to lug that behemoth up to speed by the time the ramp runs out and you have to merge into traffic.

Not surprisingly the stock cam in my '87 did quite well once I installed an aftermarket timing set that took out the cam retard built into the factory hi-vo type timing set.

 

Not sure of RPM's at hwy speed.
C6 Auto
3.54 rear end
Tire size: 245/75/16
I frequently haul 2-4000 lbs.
I am installing a Cloyes timing gear set as well.

Will I be better off keeping my stock cam? Can I install new lifters without replacing the cam?

 

You can install new lifters on an old cam just not the other way around.

You might want to try the stock cam. But with headers, port work, a Perfomer and a 750 cfm carb I believe you'll be leaving something on the table.

 

Meaning...?

 

Meaning.
I think you need more than the stock cam to get all you can out of it from what you've already done.

You don't need or want too much cam... it's easy to do.
If it were me.
Of the two.
I would choose the 3501.

I'd suggest you give a call to Scott at Reincarnation and ask if he has one of those Delta grinds that would really suit your build.

 

Ah, I heard about Reincarnation - I will give him a call and see what he has to offer.

Thanks!

 

He suggest emailing inquiry's first and following up on the phone.
253-988-6648

Rein"Car"nation High Performance / custom camshafts

 

I see money is an issue here, the smaller one would be a better choice.. with stock comp. and the gear ratio it is wise to stay under .500 lift.. it will provide the right power for your driving..and much better on the go go juice..

 

This is the exact thread I've been looking for. I'm a total newb...with a 1997 F350 460 (2WD) auto. All stock. Last winter, the oil came out like sludge and was running bad Dunno why, but maybe ran too hard the previous summer and super hot days and 5k was too long for the oil change under that load. Truck is retired from being a revenue source and is now a toy with a big engine. Compression on one of the cylinders was 90 while the others were blowing 140-150. So I'm taking it down to get the valves machined out and putting a head gasket (suspected as being bad too).

So while I've got it apart, I'm looking to get all of the low hanging fruit on performance. I don't want to pull the engine and budget is 1000 (but would go 1500 if I can get a lot of bang for that buck). From what I understand I'm probably ok replacing the CAM without removing the engine but would need to examine that closer. I didn't have the AC pulled before starting, so I suspect that may put the kabosh on that item.

This will be driven as a street rig- and as 2WD it gets stuck in its own shadow, so it never leaves the pavement.

So what's next?

I've read that swapping out the intake manifold will only get me 20 HP if I don't do the CAM.
Also I've read mixed reviews on the porting and polishing- ie factory left it rough on purpose to create turbulence, but every build seems to do it.
Also- I've been seeing reference to changing out the timing on earlier rigs- is that something that's viable on a 97?
I haven't seen much on swapping out the cold air intake, which seems to be the favorite trick of the kids with hondas.

I'm willing to do the arms lifters etc, but this being my first go at this, I want to make sure it will actually run when I put it back together and not break in 200 miles on the first week out :-).

My resources are Saturday afternoons, a chiltons manual (for the wrong year a 1996, couldn't find one for a 97), forums, youtube, and a father in law who is snow birding in palm springs but looks at what I send via email.

I'm midway on the teardown now fuel rail is coming off after I go get the little tool the lifts the spring out of the way. Looks like the ones for doing the fuel filter are too small- so a run to the parts store is needed.


So in priority order
1. exhaust headers (headman /hooker whatever ) est $300
2 port / polish (looking to have the machine shop do this)
3. ???
4. ???

 

Considering the cam has such critical importance to the engines performance and life, to me it makes sense to use a cam grinder who will talk with you directly- even modify the cam grind to fit your needs even better and to address the possibility of cam lobe failure with the new oils. With regards to price...the difference is nil- especially considering its cheap insurance to know exactly who is machining such a critical part for your engine. And remember, advertized lift/duration/lobe separation is just that- advertized and not the specific grind including ramp profile that is used on the cam.
Who actually is the supplier for summit, I don't know and I doubt they will tell you, but knowing summit's pricing structure, I will bet their cam billets are Chinese based as well. I highly recommend Iskenderian, Crower, Lunati or Chet Herbert (if he is still around)