I let the bottom flange get pulled almost to the end of the "socket" on the ypipe than put the tacks on place so I could keep it on there to pull the top flange over the "ball". The passenger side ended up staying as the ball squished and got bigger, so it still seals good. But the driver side let it pull the flange over the ball.

I cut the tab off the y pipe that held it to the trans from day one, so idk if adding another would help or not. I haven't contacted Headman at all about my issue, because I knew about it going into this, and already figured if I had the issue I'd weld solid flanges on anyways.

 

It's been about 10 months since my previous update (quoted above)... I picked up another leak about a month ago and had to tighten the ball-and-socket joints again. The bolts on both sides were loose, but the driver's side was definitely worse, and I'm sure that was the one that I could hear leaking. After I crawled out from under the truck, I almost ordered a set of Thorley's, but I refrained - for now. I decided to wait and see if the leak comes back. Anyways, thought I'd throw it out there...

 

Thanks for the follow-up message

I was seriously considering placing an order for Headman in the next couple of weeks. Especially considering their price. But I certainly don't want to fight long term issues like you have done. Thorley are now back at the top of my short list.

 

If I have to crawl under the truck and tighten the collector bolts every year or two (I think it was about 18 months for this leak to appear), I might be able to live with that. Because I already have them installed, and buying another set would mean a lot more money (cheapest I've found so far is $711 shipped to Alaska), plus another full day's work to swap 'em out. But I'll admit, after all I've been through, it is a bit frustrating to have to keep dealing with the Hedman's. If the leak comes back within a year, I've already decided to cut my losses and go with something else - most likely the Thorley's... Or, I might try cutting off the ball-and socket joints and welding on a set of standard flanges. I just don't know how nice the ceramic coating will play with the welder...

I'll keep posting updates as things progress. But at this point, I have to retract my full recommendation. They do still seem to be a good deal compared to other brands. But, even though they aren't nearly as bad as the original set, it seems that the issue with the collector leaks hasn't been completely worked out. So, folks will have to decide whether they want to save their pennies and invest in one of the more expensive sets that don't seem to have this issue, or save a few bucks and recognize that they may have to crawl under their truck every so often to re-tighten the collectors.

How have some of the other installs been fairing? Have the leaks returned, or am I the only one still dealing with this at this point?

 

Grind the ceramic coating off the outside of the tube before you do any welding. Just spray some ceramic header primer and then ceramic header paint on the bare steel after your done. The ceramic coating really is nothing special or that robust.

I am happy with my Thorleys.

 

I have the Thorley headers here, just waiting on more time to finish the job. I am very impressed with the quality. Just wish I had more time. autoanything still has them for 580 shipped. That was the best deal I've found on them

 

Not to Alaska, they don't.

 

I pulled mine off, the ball doesn't appear to be collapsing like the early models.


The socket portion leaves a lot to be desired, it appears to be bending in. Necks down to less than 2", I think it's getting pretty warm there. The ball thickness measured .087", the socket .070".

I spoke with David, he wanted them back. But I think I'm thinking of just cutting off the ball and socket and put a slip joint like the thorley uses. I can do that far cheaper than paying freight back to hedman.

 

I cut the ball off my Hedmans for a 460. Got these reducers from Summit. 3" id x 2.5od I then used a band clamp to attach the tubing.

 

That was my plan as well.

 

Had to tighten the collector bolts again this weekend. ...sigh...

 

Do those bolts have nuts? If so what type nuts are used? Lock washers?

 

I reworked mine, converted to slip tube. I have an egt coming so I'm waiting for that so I can put the bung in #10, the other header is on. Hope to hit the dyno in a week or so.

 

Nice work. Thanks for those pics! g When you get it installed get some pics of that too.

 

Very nice.

If I buy a set of Headman's, can I send them to you to perform this same mod/fix before I install them ??