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The closest I may ever get to owning a T-bucket Roadster...

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  #61  
Old 09-25-2011, 03:43 AM
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well a Marine will for sure make that happen, as you know Marines = #1
 
  #62  
Old 09-26-2011, 08:58 AM
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The Ladies name is Tina Baldwin (Ring any bells with anyone?) and she's with B&B Signs and Design (www.bbsigns.net) for future reference.

Elsewhere around the rancho - I got a bit done, but now I'm playing easter egg hunt for water pump bolts (Naturally...)

What I think needs to happen is to stud the silly thing with allthread (also known as "Threaded Rod") to get past that once and for all. I've always liked stud setups, because you can never forget where the bolts go after doing that and it makes it SOOOOO easy to line up gaskets....

I also came to a screaching halt when I realised that the brand new set of signature series Edelbrock chrome valve covers didn't come with gaskets

But I need an oil pressure sender and a few other things anyway
*I wonder if the pressure sender from the 2.3 is the same thread?

ONE OF the other things is a fuel pressure regulator. I can down regulate the in-tank EFI pump to feed the Holley quad, and run a return line if necessary.

EFI fuel pumps supply 40 PSI, vice the 7 PSI needed to ensure the floats in a double pumper don't get over run!

Here's a detail shot comparing the water pumps and timing cases:

As you can see - the ports for the water pump WILL NOT ALIGN RIGHT if the pump is wrong for the T-Cover. The impellers are also mirror images of eachother, and absolutely won't work on the wrong setup because they are designed to turn in opposite directions.
Now, CLASS? Why is a front mounted dipstick NOT going to work on this engine AT ALL...

NOTE TOO that the Inlets are on opposite sides, which means the radiator outlet (bottom connection) should be on the same side as the pump uptake...
(Shorter hoses are better)

Here is a detail shot of the rear sump oil pickup setup - you can see why it needs added support, can't you?


Fun, fun, fun... I wonder what the neighbors thought when they heard my compressor hammering away at 4:30 AM?

I got the timing cover and pan back on - with enough bolts in the water pump so the sealer can set, and shot the block with flat black anti-rust primer.
~ On that I took "HENRIES ADVICE":
"Paint it any color you want - so long as it's black!"

The headers are bolted up as well. I'm holding off on pic's of that until I get a set of Valve Cover gaskets...


*I can't believe how clean it is inside
 
  #63  
Old 09-26-2011, 11:53 AM
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Hell - WHY NOT?
This is what it looks like now:




"EVIL, WICKED, MEAN, and NASTY" is not just a Chevrolet thing...
 
  #64  
Old 09-26-2011, 04:21 PM
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If you want to use your efi fuel pump with a regulator, be sure to use a fuel return line to the tank. There will just be too much fuel otherwise.

Only question is, from before or after the regulator? Maybe you can put the regulator all the way back close to the tank. (?)

Using the "allthread" for the water pump works great going together, but coming apart is a bitch. Did yo leave enough thread so you can double nut the allthread to remove it? Otherwise the pump has to be paralell to the block pulling it off. Tougher than it sounds.
 
  #65  
Old 09-26-2011, 11:37 PM
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With a regulator - what I see happening is the pump reaches full pressure and maintains it. The regulator then only allows what flow is necessary.

Far as the allthread - there's going to be a mile of space in front of the engine, even if I didn't make it a practice to pull the radiator anytime I do things to the engine front. That way the radiator is spared any incidental dings or damage. I treat radiators like the crown jewels...

(ONEDIT - since it's minor)
29SEP2011
Time to break out the OVEN CLEANER, the accessory brackets are just plain nasty, and I can't let that mess slow me down.

More goodies arrived from AutoShepherd at noon today - so the valve covers can be put on finally. ("WOOF!") Also got an oil pressure sender, and I'm going to check it with a meter to ensure I know what to look for later on.
 
  #66  
Old 09-30-2011, 11:17 AM
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You're gonna just love this one...

What beat out gumout engine bright?
What beat Carb Cleaner sprays?
What beat using mineral spirits, acetone, varsol, or any other normally occurring to anybody ways to clean out nasty gummy (in fact "TARRY") filth from tight pockets all over the (*Numerous expletives deleted here) accessory brackets?



~ None other than cheap dollar store Oven Cleaner spray.

It cleans up with water, and is supposedly environmentally safe (Don't spray it on yourself though - that can suck... )


OH! And about the barbeque...

I was going to make a tray for the firebox (it was given to me by someone). But I do all my SERIOUS BBQ using a smoker anyway

 
  #67  
Old 09-30-2011, 11:32 AM
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I also used to use a more expensive product to clean my engine and stuff, Westley's Bleach-White. Now I use this Dollar Store stuff called Awesome Orange. It works just as good for $1. I may have to give the cheap oven cleaner a shot though.
 
  #68  
Old 09-30-2011, 11:38 AM
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HOLD THE PHONE ON THAT, Man...

The Oven Spray was $2.65 a pop - what wuzz the name of that stuff again?
I may have to "GIT ME SUM!!!"


KUDOS!

I'm proud of you....

~Although - foaming oven cleaner is notorious for tearing up stubborn spots of hard baked on crap (I apologise for the language, but you know well the nasty stuff I mean)

I will go on point by stating this: IF Oven Cleaner won't tear up whatever it is, the last resort is gasket destroyer spray. At that point, you're almost better off with leather working tools (such as rounded punches and chisels)


"CHEAP" and "INEXPENSIVE" are 2 completely different things...
 
  #69  
Old 09-30-2011, 11:43 AM
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I believe it's called "Awesome Orange", I got it at the dollar store for a dollar. I've bought several (like a dozen) bottles, and it really works as good as or better than the Westley's Bleach-White. I've used Westley's for 20+ years to clean my tires, engines, parts and other stuff and loved it, till I accidentally found this stuff. Now I'm hooked, and I can't beat the price. Sometimes, I even use it to clean the grease off my hands.
 
  #70  
Old 09-30-2011, 11:49 AM
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Hey Dutch, that thing running yet?

PS - What year is that Ranger?
 
  #71  
Old 09-30-2011, 11:52 AM
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Naw, Mano.

The best stuff to clean your hands is plain old dish washing liquid - like lemon scented Ajax or Joy.

It's designed to cut grease, right?

I've been using nothing much else for over thirty years, bud. It only takes a few drops...





Try it and see - when you thin it with water it works like a charm!
 
  #72  
Old 09-30-2011, 11:53 AM
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Schaefers makes a product called Citrol. It is *borat* very nice */borat*

That reminds me, Goldy still needs to get me a few cans of it...
 
  #73  
Old 09-30-2011, 02:56 PM
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It may seem stubborn and stupid - but I refuse to go further until those alloy brackets are clean and sharp looking.

I have all I need in WALKING DISTANCE, I can spare the time to make it right.
 
  #74  
Old 09-30-2011, 02:57 PM
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What year is that thing? Do you want wiring diagrams?
 
  #75  
Old 10-01-2011, 06:04 PM
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Unless I run up against something really weird - I have wiring diagrams for every year of EACH vehicle that this little truck is being made out of

Here finally are the brackets and the pulleys all rounded up...






~Still have to change the valve covers, so the A/C pump is not on permanently yet. The kandy metal flake came out of a rattle can (pulley faces).
~All sides of brackets dusted with rust preventive flat black to seal and help prep it for later.
~The tranny will get the same flat black treatment
~Some day in the future it will have a chrome pan - today ain't that day!
 


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