I am trying to remove the front disc rotors which are warped. I am new to forum and have been out of work for 3 years now and can't afford to have a garage fix my truck. I removed the front disc calipers easily enough by following the directions in the Chilton manual. I went to section 9-11 on Chilton’s Repair Manual and it says that after the calipers are removed, remove the disc rotors. It won't come off and why should it? The bearing nut and the bearings are holding it together. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Do I have to remove the wheel bearings out first?<o></o>
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Regards,<o></o>
Larry <o></o>
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Even if you have a two piece rotor/hub assembly you are probavbly going to have to pull the hub.
You will have to remove the screws around the locking hub caps, remove the caps, remove the two snap rings (one external, one internal), slide the locking mechanism out, then undo the bearing retainer nuts and slide the hub/rotor off of the spindle. You may need to hire the bearing retainer nut tool for this.
If the rotor and hub are two piece you will probably have to drive the lugs out to seperate the rotor from the hub.

 

Thanks Lazy K. I went to the auto parts store and they sold me a Lisle 27400 tool to remove the bearing lock nut, but it doesn't fit my lock nut. I am trying to determine what front axle I have. The tag on the back is worn off. I called the Ford dealership in Milford, CT and they don't know from the VIN number. He did give me a Ford tag number: E9TA3002NA. Would that help to identify the front axle model number?

Regards,
Larry

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, aren't axle codes on the sticker on the drivers side door jamb?

 

Unless its been swapped, You should have a Dana 44 TTB (IFS) front axle

 

I googled images of the Dana 44 and it doesn't look like it. I ordered the truck with heavy duty axles so I don't think they are standard. I think I ordered the 1/2 ton axles or 3/4, not sure anymore. Maybe I can take a image and post it for you or anybody willing to identify it.

The differential casting tapers to one bolt location on passenger side.

******EDIT: I just realized that the F150 is the 1/2 ton so I must of ordered the 3/4 ton axle.

Regards,
Larry

 

What is your lug patter? 5 lug = Dana 44, 8 lug and TTB = Dana 50, 8 lug solid axle = Dana 60.

Yea post a pic, a pic always helps.

 

I looked on the door jamb and it said I have H5 axles.

Regards,
Larry

 

It definitely has a five lug pattern. I will post a picture of the differential tomorrow.

Regards,
Larry

 

Yes!! Yes!! Yes!! I googled the image for a 44 TTB front axle and that's it!!

Dana 44 TTB Axle Information

Thanks so much! If you were in town, I'd buy you dinner!!

Regards,
Larry

 

Just glad to help. Also if you have your owners manual its will tell you, based on the axle code, weather you have trac-lock differentials, or open.

 

Lazy K, I am a little confused at this point. I removed the 2 snap rings mentioned, but I am not sure how to slide out the “locking mechanism” out. There is nothing to get hold of with my fingers. The Chilton’s manual says use a wheel puller if it doesn’t slide out, but it gives no details on what I am pulling out or where to attach the puller. Also, I talked to Lisle, the company who makes these wheel bearing lock-nut tool tools and he says based on the data of the axle the proper tool is # 28,000, but he says I have to remove the parts outboard of the wheel bearing lock nut first. This seems to agree with what you are saying.

So how am I to slide out the “locking mechanism” ? Am I supposed to use a gear puller on the six #10 bolts that held the cap cover on ?

And yes, the rotor and hub are two pieces. I believe they are pressed together and so are the 5 lug bolts. I will have to have a garage press them out.

Regards,
Larry

 

I looked over my 92 Ford 150 original owner's manual and I didn't see any reference of "trac-lock differential" or "open" based on axle code.

The only mention of trac-lock in the manual was on the Fluid Capacities for F250 or F350, but not for F150.

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Would it have any effect on my removing the hub assembly or parts?

Regards,
Larry

 

Sometimes the universal joints in the axle shafts can be stiff and keep a side loading on the locking hub so try moving the universal joint a little with a pry bar (screwdriver) to center the axle stub shaft. Then screw in a couple of the little cap screws and use pliers or vise grips on them to pull the assembly out.
Unless specially ordered when new, your front diff will not be limited slip and anyway, it makes no difference to the job you are doing.

 

I just did what you suggested and IT WORKED! Thanks again to all who sent me information. I can't tell you how much it means to me. Your knowledge base is greater than what I received from the Ford Dealerships.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Regards,
Larry