Eating Slave Cylinders
#1
Eating Slave Cylinders
I just replaced my third one in the past 5 or so years,on my daily-driven '59.What gives?This time,I completely drained and replaced the fluid.I'm guessing that it is corrosion, caused by moisture, due to the fact that we live in a temperate rain-forest (65" this past season).Meanwhile, I've changed the clutch master-cylinder once in the past 13 years.
Could there possibly be any other cause,other than moisture?
Could there possibly be any other cause,other than moisture?
#2
I don't think your situation is too different than anyone elses, except the amount of moisture is higher. Slaves are almost always at the lowest point of the system, so all the crap falls down into the chamber, get ground up by the piston and cup.
If you have steel line on any part of the system, check into replacing with SS braided brake line. Believe it or not, usually the cheapest place to get this is a chopper store (motorcycle choppers). They sell lines in many different lengths with the connector on the end, and an assortment of banjos and other fittings with different angles, different sizes, etc.
It would also help if you ran DOT-5 (silicone) fluid, as it is non-hydroscopic. I don't know if the rubber in the master and slave would like it, but rubber is cheap.
If your system is as hard to bleed as my car's, another advantage of using the flex lines is that you can remove the slave from the bellhousing, and hold it up high so all the air gets to the bleeder quickly. On my kind of car, people sometimes take TWO WEEKS to get all the air out of their slaves. That's German engineering, buddy!
If you have steel line on any part of the system, check into replacing with SS braided brake line. Believe it or not, usually the cheapest place to get this is a chopper store (motorcycle choppers). They sell lines in many different lengths with the connector on the end, and an assortment of banjos and other fittings with different angles, different sizes, etc.
It would also help if you ran DOT-5 (silicone) fluid, as it is non-hydroscopic. I don't know if the rubber in the master and slave would like it, but rubber is cheap.
If your system is as hard to bleed as my car's, another advantage of using the flex lines is that you can remove the slave from the bellhousing, and hold it up high so all the air gets to the bleeder quickly. On my kind of car, people sometimes take TWO WEEKS to get all the air out of their slaves. That's German engineering, buddy!
#3
#4
#5
Been down the same road!
After replacing mine at least once a year I just went with a lifetime warenty one from SHUCKS.The funny thing was the origanal one on the truck held up for many years. Just had problems with the replacement ones but no sense opening that can of worms again. MARK by the way been a way awhile nice to be back.
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