Why does everyone seem to want "fuel economy" out of "pickup/work trucks"? These things aren't meant to be driven empty lol, meant to WORK. Ironically my F150 gets better mileage than my Ranger right now. My F150 is loaded 24/7 (mobile mechanic truck). I also have the front tank draining fuel into the back, which affects the needle. The back will not allow gas into the front though, but I have to fix the back tank before I can constantly fill it up (vapor vent on top of tank not seated).

The Ranger, I filled it up yesterday and reset the trip. I'm at 96 miles and the gauge is showing 1/4 tank left (new fuel pump and new used cluster). At supposedly 14.5 gallons full that amounts to about 8mpg if I calculate right so far. It's okay though, I have plans for this little 2.3 of mine.

4.9L is my favorite motor and I6s are my favorite design. I've abused the hell out of this truck daily and she had a ton of miles on it before I ever got it. Love them for what they are, and for what they are not.

 

You are right, it seems silly to worry about mileage in a work truck. But here in Canada we are paying over $5 per gallon for fuel. I am driving about 50-70 miles per day for work. It adds up really quick. Like, $125-150 per week. 250-350 miles per week for $125-150. See why I am concerned? What are your fuel prices at where you are?

 

I pay about $3.65 a gallon here. During a good month I fill up the front tank every 3 days or so and pay around $500 a month in fuel, maybe more sometimes.

Once I fix the rear tank I will fill both each time at the pump. But yea, I usually spend at least $500 a month in gas working as much as I do. So at ur prices I'd be closer to $700 or $800 a month, which would be no biggy cause if people want me to work for them, they pay my gas haha.

 

I'm glad I have a company fuel card, I just want to nip this in the bud before they balk at paying it. Our fuel price is $1.25 per liter, 3.88 liters to a US gallon, 4.18 liters to an imperial gallon. Retarded when we make the stuff ourselves that we have to pay that much. Oh well, we're Canadian, we apologize and move on.

 

Makes sense being Imperial gallons. Mpg's on these trucks can improve with a change of oxygen sensors from what I've read. My 95 f150 2wd 5spd 4.9L gete 16 city/19 hwy(19.2/23 imperial). Trips down south with 500 lbs payload netted an average of 20.5 mpg (24.6 imperial mpg).

Truck has 218,500 miles (351,600 km).

 

I can honestly say i have never gotten more than 13mpg highway in my i6. Replaced o2 sensor, new fuel filter, FULL tune up besides injectors. Cleaned out throttle body. One thing i do notice though is that it smells like it is burning rich at start up ALOT its VERY very strong and at idle after it is at running temp you can smell the exhaust alot compared to my other trucks. Not sure what more i can do to help fix the issue. Only thing i can say that would contribute to the horrible gas mileage is my tires. But i have 3.08 gears with about 10" wide tires maybe wider.. But with rims and tires they are barley hittin 28" so its not like i have a HUGE tired either. Tune up included: Distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor, shocks, coil springs, camber bushings, I have one error code and thats for my driver air bag, motor has no error codes.

 

I read a thread that recommended a full tune up so I did it, it did improve slightly. Like yours it smells rich upon starting. I am running stock 235/75/15's. Maybe this is the best I get. I too have the airbag code, must be a quirk with these things. The advice to get almost 50% better mileage and power: new aluminum head with intake and 390 cfm Holly 4 bbl, headers and exhaust, comes to around $2500 for parts. I'm leaning toward the 351C I found. Might not be better mileage, but should be able to pass and will at least sound 200% better!

 

Nitesaber-What model is your truck? Is it 4x4?

Most of the horro stories I hear of the I6's gettin bad MPG's are of them having 35" tires, 4x4, Lifts, superlow gears, or a granny 4 speed....

In the city, on the highway, and mixed.....Mine gets 15-19/20 and 17/18-ish respectively.....With 175k miles on it....

But then again, other than my Cold Air Intake I made for it..Its a fully tuned up stock engine, Mazda 5 speed, 3.08 gears and a 4x2 (1)....Cos its a open diff...

 

Bone stock 2wd short box reg cab 5 spd, stock tires. (235/75/15).

 

There is no V8 that you can install that will get better milage than the I6, some will come close and all of them make more horsepower, but that will cost you at the pump. These EFI I6 trucks will get into the low to mid 20s milage with Imperial gallons math.. you just gotta fix whatever is wrong with yours.

 

It is a 1995 f150 xlt efi OBD1. tire size is 275/60 R15, with 8.8 rear and 3.08 with E4OD 2WD. Let me know if u think of any issues i might have. It is really killing me on gas with it like it and everyone says i should be getting better but no matter what i do it seems like it gets worse over time!

 

Well....Lets see.....

Have you-

-Gapped the plugs to .044"?
-Added new Autolite plugs?
-Added new wires?
-Added a new dizzy cap/rotary button, with the brass terminals?
-Checked/replaced the TPS?
-Checked the Emissions Control System to make sure its functioning properly?
-Changed the fuel filter?
-Changed the transmission and rear diff fluids?
-Checked for a dragging brake?
-Checked the E-Brakes to make sure they are properly functioning, and not dragging?

Thats a good start off.....^--That's all I've did to mine to get that set of MPG numbers.....

Also-PULL THE CODES.....

 

Checked Gap, New plugs and wires(not sure what brand but not cheapies), cap and rotar are done. All emissions are fixed(got error codes and fixed it and had it checked), Fuel filter replaces, How do you check for dragging brakes? what is tps? and neither rear or tranny since i got truck. Had 112k when i got it now has 117k. Wasnt sure if it had been done regularly when i got it and didnt want to mess anything up by having them flush if i did it. Should i flush or just replace?

 

I have not checked timing on Distributor tho, i have to replace the little gasket around it, just started to leak and get that situated. PCV valve was also done, no leaks besides Dist. which is so minor its barley worth getting gasket might as well use the liquid gasket crap.

 

To check for dragging brakes.....

-You have to jack the truck up (PLEASE use jack stands)
-Spin the whole wheel; Listen for a grinding sound...
-And remove the wheel....
-Look for the telltale multicolored heat discoloration...
-Spin the rotor...It should spin 5-6 times FREELY......
-While your'e that far....Pull, inspect, and repack the bearings.....
-Rinse and repeat for the other front tire...

-The back is a lil different, but you get the idea....Also, check for rocks, etc in the rear drums.....THey will RUIN them...

And also check the wheel cylinders back there while you have the drums off....Safety first an all....Just will give ya a heads up if they are failing...

____________________________________________

TPS-Throttle Position Sensor-Located on the throttlebody.....Will be on the side....the sensor on the top is the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve)...

Replace the fluids I've told you...The diff. fluid will look BLACK and smell god awful....

And the issues you are having with your tranny...Might clear up some....

And if its the old "If you flush an automatic tranny, it'll tear up" you're afraid of; DOn't be...If its tearing up, its gonna tear up...Its a fact of nature....