You said you were going to buy a crank sensor. Did you do that and install it yet?

 

No not yet due to the advice that they gave me here. They said if the check engine light is on when starting then the cranks is not the problem but I'll buying just to rule it out.

 

Um, actually that not what he said.

 

When you turn the ignition key on to the "RUN" position (not the crank position) your check engine light should light. Then when you advance the key to the crank position, if the PCM sees a CKP signal it will turn the check engine light off. So if the light turns off while cranking I wouldn't think you have a CKP sensor problem.


Unless i understood it wrong alloro
What does he mean then?

 

Does your check engine light stay on, or does it turn off when you crank the engine?

 

The check engine turns off.
Okay I bought the CKP sensor and it stil does the same thing.
There appears to be no voltage on either CKP and CMP.

 

That is weird. It seems the sensors are working then, though I guess the one way to know for sure is to have a live data capable scanner and read the output of the sensors. Not sure if there's any way of measuring with a DMM or similar. If you have an OBD adapter, you can use a software like FORScan to read all that. But if you have no spark, there's either a loss of connection somewhere, likely a common reference wire. Are the injectors pulsing? I assume that if the PCM does not command the coils to spark, it would also not command the injectors to deliver fuel. As for measuring voltage at the cam or crank sensor, I don't think those have any supplied voltage from the PCM.

FORScan

Also, you mentioned you replaced PCM? How did you do this, and did you have the new PCM reflashed?

 

You got it right the second time around. The first time you said the CEL came on, but didn't mention the light went off when cranking.

 

No, there is no pulse on injectors. The PCM was reflashed by the dealership. What do you mean by reference wire? how would i check if there bad?

 

I worded it wrong, reference wire = common wire. But, since you don't have spark and don't have injector pulses, it sounds like the PCM is detecting (or not detecting) something and doesn't allow the engine to start. Usually if it doesn't fire spark and injector, it's because it doesn't know where the engine is at in timing, meaning either cam sensors or crank sensor. But, it can also be the cylinder head temp sensor giving a false high signal, which makes the PCM believe the engine is overheated and won't allow start. I think the best way to check this is to check the sensor signals with a scan tool. Do you have an OBD scanner, i.e. one of those cheap china bluetooth adapters or similar?

 

The PATS turns off spark and fuel if it does not detect the correct key in the ignition.

 

Yes I do have a scanner but the only the it shows is P0174. You said temperature can be the problem because I accendently broke this sensor.

 

Alloro also mentioned PATS which I forgot to mention, does your anti theft light flash quickly when you try to start?

Also, if you broke a temp sensor, it may prevent the engine from starting. Not sure how it behaves with it's simply a broken circuit, if it interprets that as a high temp or detects a failed sensor, and what it does in that case. If it's detecting high temp, it wont allow the engine to start in order to prevent engine damage.

 

No it does not flash quickly. I hope the temp sensor is the problem I'll be buying tomorrow to see what happens. If not the problem I will have to go with the reference cables to find the problem.

 

The higher the resistance of the CTS the colder the ECM thinks the engine is. An open circuit would be infinity and would make the ECM think the engine is ice cold, not hot. That aside, the ECM knows that an infinity reading means there is an open in the circuit and would disregard it because a "room temperature" reading puts the CTS at about 2K ohms.