GreenVan or Vettex2 maybe you could help me with this problem?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-ac-unit.html

 

John, It seems that the problem you are having is what is described on this thread. I think the line you are trying to follow should go to a vacuum accumulator. Is your rig a truck (F250) or a van (E250)?

 

GreeVan: Thanks for any help you can provide. I've spent all day trying to figure this issue out. My rig is a 1994 E350 with a 460 motor converted into a Tioga Montero Motorhome. I went to a bunch of wrecking yards to see if I could find something similar to mine but couldn't find anything close except that I am almost sure that the line that is terminated must go to the engine somewhere but I can't find anything on the motor with a vacuum line that doesn't go anywhere. I'd like to add my signature to tell people what I have but I guess I haven't posted enough. (Go to the thread I referred to in a previous post I made to see what I am talking about)

 

So because I couldn't figure out where the vacuum line was going I took the van to Ford. They charged me $520 and now everything works. They said the old vacuum canister was not working so they installed a canister from a 2002 Explorer and redid the lines.

 

I bought a canister for a Mustang, I plan to put it up under the dash on the passenger side, cut/splice it into the black hose coming in down by the AC, that is the feed coming from the engine, the red hose, I have no idea where it ties into the factory can in the wheel well, don't care, put in this for the AC.

 

had this problem with my f150 there is a checkvalve in the system when it fails it defaults to defroster location is front passenger side next to firewall there is avacum tank behind the battery that is in the system i got replacement from rock auto

 

I just finished bypassing the old vacuum reservoir & check valve trick mentioned here by others - May have been mentioned b4 - but I ran my 1/8" I.D. vacuum line to the left of the battery between the double wall. There is a rubber grommet (about 1")already there that is not used & comes out right above the pass. side kick panel. I just cut a small hole in the rubber grommet & ran the tubing right thru & put a bead of silicone around it. No need to even drill a hole . Now this is on my 2006 E-350. Made my reservoir out of 2" pvc pipe, it is 8" long overall. Found a cap at hardware store with a 1/2" fpt & reduced to a 1/4" mpt x 1/8" barb brass adaptor. - Works like a new one now. Installed the new check valve above the battery where the existing connector was located.Hope this might help some one down the road.

 

I've used this method to repair more than one of these vans. The problem is usually caused by rodents chewing the hard plastic line out of the soft connector.

 

I've been having this problem for as long as I can remember (1993 Ford E350 RV). I've been reading these threads, and have stockpiled some parts to do a bypass (prefer not to attempt the fender cutting).

My symptoms: Normal HVAC ops except when climbing long hills.

I tried to get lucky and just add the check valve under the hood. Took it for a test drive, seemed slightly better, but definitely not fixed.

So, I'm about to do a bypass. Sadly, there's a bunch of open space under the hood that they could have used to do this. My battery is on the driver's side, there's another vacuum tank (I think) on the passenger side, with plenty of open space between the HVAC fan and headlight.

Not sure if I'll get to it this week, but will post my results when I finish.

On the plus side, I'm no longer afraid to open the engine cover, and I finally found the transmission fluid dipstick! I've only owned this for 12 years, LOL...

Mike

 

So your transmission hasn't been serviced in those 12 years?

 

I thought mine was bad- 3 years and 140,000 with no trans service. (Please the unknown history before I got it)

 

I got lucky, and mine ended up just being the valve/switch in the dash. I don't remember what it cost, but it was pretty cheap, and it's worked like a champ ever since.

 

Those too can figure into air flow but its somewhat rare that electro-vacuum switch goes bad. I've had the connectors at the switch and the block where it all ties into the body vacuum distribution lines become loose or fail causing problems---they are a lot easier to diagnose and fix if that's the problem.

 

No, the tranny has most definitely been serviced, just not by me.

When I first bought it, I didn't see the dipstick, and asked a service guy, who said that I probably needed to open the doghouse to find it. Never has a compelling reason to do that before now, although before long trips, I do like to check all fluid levels.

I've never been big on DIY on my RVs. I'll do anything I can on cars/trucks (short of major internal engine work), but have always preferred to have the truck shop handle the RV. I did buy tools (bigger jack and stands too) and did a major brake job last year.

@$%%&- blend door just started skipping on the 2005 Explorer this morning!!! Not looking forward to doing that again. Guess I should be happy, the original only lasted 4 years, the replacement about 5.5 years...

Mike

 

Uh, the transmission dipstick hasn't been in the doghouse since the 68-74 Econolines, it's under the hood, which I like much more, it's a pain pulling the doghouse to check the fluid.
If the transmission isn't leaking, you might be lucky.