Running rough after new spark plugs
#16
#17
#19
jasonodsky,
I dont know what the old spark plugs looked like. When i tested the coil packs, I pulled them one at a time and replaced it with a new one, let it run for a bit to see if it changed. I didnt see any grease. Now when you say boots do you mean the one on the coil packs or is there another? I looked at each coil and they were in really good condition but i would put it passed me that i missed something. It feels like the timing so i will try the battery trick first and see what happens. My gut tells me its the timing and if the CPU is set to the old plugs that would make sense. Wish me luck!!!! lol
I dont know what the old spark plugs looked like. When i tested the coil packs, I pulled them one at a time and replaced it with a new one, let it run for a bit to see if it changed. I didnt see any grease. Now when you say boots do you mean the one on the coil packs or is there another? I looked at each coil and they were in really good condition but i would put it passed me that i missed something. It feels like the timing so i will try the battery trick first and see what happens. My gut tells me its the timing and if the CPU is set to the old plugs that would make sense. Wish me luck!!!! lol
#20
Did they guy pull the fuel rails and injectors when getting at your coil packs?..In addition to makeing sure you have all the coil packs securely plugged in, double check that the injectors are securely plugged in as well. I dont want to be an ***, but I sincerely doubt reseting your ecu is going to help anything here.
*edit Also how did you determine there were no codes? Not all codes will set off a CEL so hopefully you had a decent scanner.
*edit Also how did you determine there were no codes? Not all codes will set off a CEL so hopefully you had a decent scanner.
#21
Did they guy pull the fuel rails and injectors when getting at your coil packs?..In addition to makeing sure you have all the coil packs securely plugged in, double check that the injectors are securely plugged in as well. I dont want to be an ***, but I sincerely doubt reseting your ecu is going to help anything here.
*edit Also how did you determine there were no codes? Not all codes will set off a CEL so hopefully you had a decent scanner.
*edit Also how did you determine there were no codes? Not all codes will set off a CEL so hopefully you had a decent scanner.
I have a code reader and id didnt come up with anything. Its not a expensive one but it reads the codes when the light comes on.
#23
#24
Sorry, it's more near the bottom of the valve cover on the front driver's side as seen in the photo. Sorry AlaskanEx, had to grab one of your pics from the other post.
Attachment 38062
Attachment 38062
no problem! thats why i took that pic, hoped it might help somebody.
#25
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Mt. Shasta California
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Before you blow all your money on cops why don't you try shorting out one at a time while someone watches your tach or hook up an anylizer to it. Your cops are probably all good. Strange how it ran good before that guy put plugs in it, I still think he did something.
#26
I have changed my plugs twice on my Ex, the first time I did nothing with the coils other that use a dab of dielectric grease. No issues. The second time I changed the plugs was because I got two misfires within two months of each other (bad coils) and I decided to just go ahead and replace all the coils and did the plugs at the same time. Again, no issues and it ran just fine. When I change my plugs I do not remove the fuel rail (you don't have to at all!!) but if someone did I would look at the injector connectors as the wires going to them can get brittle and crack causing too much resistance and misfiring that is the fault of the injectors not the coils. Whoever is talking about resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery has no idea how these ignition systems work on these things.
#27
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Mt. Shasta California
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When I change my plugs I don't disconnect anything that doesn't need to be disconnected. I learned a long time ago that the the less you take apart the better off you are. Also; my 2000 V-10 has never had a bad cop. I think having some type of resistance is bad for them but I'm just guessing because they weren't around when I was a mechanic. I would put it on an anylizer and get to the root of the problem before you start blowing more money on it.
#28
#29
WHY REPLACE SPARK PLUGS IN A MODERN VEHICLE ?
Somebody help me out here . Of course in the old days we who hated walking, did preventitive maintainence...points, condensor, dist. caps, plugs, etc, at regular intervals.
But this is not the old days - and last I heard, my local auto parts dealer was fresh out of points, condensor, rotor, and dist. cap for my 2005 V-10......!
I have 140,000 mi. on the "fine wire" plugs - and no sign of a mis-fire. Anyone remember the expression that is NOW very valid " IF IT AINT BROKE, DONT SCREW WITH IT"...
So, someone explain to me why we should EVER screw with a MODERN vehicle's spark-plugs, until and less they start mis-firing ?
Somebody help me out here . Of course in the old days we who hated walking, did preventitive maintainence...points, condensor, dist. caps, plugs, etc, at regular intervals.
But this is not the old days - and last I heard, my local auto parts dealer was fresh out of points, condensor, rotor, and dist. cap for my 2005 V-10......!
I have 140,000 mi. on the "fine wire" plugs - and no sign of a mis-fire. Anyone remember the expression that is NOW very valid " IF IT AINT BROKE, DONT SCREW WITH IT"...
So, someone explain to me why we should EVER screw with a MODERN vehicle's spark-plugs, until and less they start mis-firing ?
#30