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Running rough after new spark plugs

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  #16  
Old 06-20-2011, 05:24 PM
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Gotta be ****, sorry. Is the Arrow pointing to it?
 
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  #17  
Old 06-20-2011, 07:44 PM
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im having the same issue in one i just bought today. i bought it as is and i figured it was just the coil packs or plugs. im gonna change the plugs and check the packs this weekend if not this week sometime. whats th best way to check the coil packs?
 
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Old 06-20-2011, 09:48 PM
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They are usually good or bad. Change the boots!
 
  #19  
Old 06-21-2011, 08:28 AM
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jasonodsky,

I dont know what the old spark plugs looked like. When i tested the coil packs, I pulled them one at a time and replaced it with a new one, let it run for a bit to see if it changed. I didnt see any grease. Now when you say boots do you mean the one on the coil packs or is there another? I looked at each coil and they were in really good condition but i would put it passed me that i missed something. It feels like the timing so i will try the battery trick first and see what happens. My gut tells me its the timing and if the CPU is set to the old plugs that would make sense. Wish me luck!!!! lol
 
  #20  
Old 06-21-2011, 11:59 AM
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Did they guy pull the fuel rails and injectors when getting at your coil packs?..In addition to makeing sure you have all the coil packs securely plugged in, double check that the injectors are securely plugged in as well. I dont want to be an ***, but I sincerely doubt reseting your ecu is going to help anything here.

*edit Also how did you determine there were no codes? Not all codes will set off a CEL so hopefully you had a decent scanner.
 
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ecoastkid
Did they guy pull the fuel rails and injectors when getting at your coil packs?..In addition to makeing sure you have all the coil packs securely plugged in, double check that the injectors are securely plugged in as well. I dont want to be an ***, but I sincerely doubt reseting your ecu is going to help anything here.

*edit Also how did you determine there were no codes? Not all codes will set off a CEL so hopefully you had a decent scanner.

I have a code reader and id didnt come up with anything. Its not a expensive one but it reads the codes when the light comes on.
 
  #22  
Old 06-21-2011, 12:48 PM
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It's not the timing. Replace all your boots. They are the rubber things that go from the cop to the plug, and put a tiny bit of grease on the end of the new spring that comes with them.
 
  #23  
Old 06-24-2011, 05:03 PM
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well i changed my plugs and boots and its running worse than it was before. im going to disconnect the battery for a while and see what happens. next step for me is to buy a whole new set of coils for summit or jegs.
 
  #24  
Old 06-24-2011, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jh818
Sorry, it's more near the bottom of the valve cover on the front driver's side as seen in the photo. Sorry AlaskanEx, had to grab one of your pics from the other post.
Attachment 38062

no problem! thats why i took that pic, hoped it might help somebody.
 
  #25  
Old 06-24-2011, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by charger7022
well i changed my plugs and boots and its running worse than it was before. im going to disconnect the battery for a while and see what happens. next step for me is to buy a whole new set of coils for summit or jegs.
Before you blow all your money on cops why don't you try shorting out one at a time while someone watches your tach or hook up an anylizer to it. Your cops are probably all good. Strange how it ran good before that guy put plugs in it, I still think he did something.
 
  #26  
Old 06-24-2011, 08:20 PM
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I have changed my plugs twice on my Ex, the first time I did nothing with the coils other that use a dab of dielectric grease. No issues. The second time I changed the plugs was because I got two misfires within two months of each other (bad coils) and I decided to just go ahead and replace all the coils and did the plugs at the same time. Again, no issues and it ran just fine. When I change my plugs I do not remove the fuel rail (you don't have to at all!!) but if someone did I would look at the injector connectors as the wires going to them can get brittle and crack causing too much resistance and misfiring that is the fault of the injectors not the coils. Whoever is talking about resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery has no idea how these ignition systems work on these things.
 
  #27  
Old 06-24-2011, 09:22 PM
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When I change my plugs I don't disconnect anything that doesn't need to be disconnected. I learned a long time ago that the the less you take apart the better off you are. Also; my 2000 V-10 has never had a bad cop. I think having some type of resistance is bad for them but I'm just guessing because they weren't around when I was a mechanic. I would put it on an anylizer and get to the root of the problem before you start blowing more money on it.
 
  #28  
Old 07-10-2011, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by charger7022
well i changed my plugs and boots and its running worse than it was before. im going to disconnect the battery for a while and see what happens. next step for me is to buy a whole new set of coils for summit or jegs.

How'd it all turn out?
 
  #29  
Old 07-10-2011, 06:48 PM
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WHY REPLACE SPARK PLUGS IN A MODERN VEHICLE ?

Somebody help me out here . Of course in the old days we who hated walking, did preventitive maintainence...points, condensor, dist. caps, plugs, etc, at regular intervals.

But this is not the old days - and last I heard, my local auto parts dealer was fresh out of points, condensor, rotor, and dist. cap for my 2005 V-10......!

I have 140,000 mi. on the "fine wire" plugs - and no sign of a mis-fire. Anyone remember the expression that is NOW very valid " IF IT AINT BROKE, DONT SCREW WITH IT"...

So, someone explain to me why we should EVER screw with a MODERN vehicle's spark-plugs, until and less they start mis-firing ?
 
  #30  
Old 07-10-2011, 07:32 PM
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My guess is that one of the plugs ceramic insulators was cracked during installation.

take it back to the place that installed them and have the correct the issue.
 


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