The correct -Genuine Holley- 3-1346 rebuild kit is available at Holley's Amazon store for $41
Amazon.com: Holley 3-1346 Carburetor Renew Kit: Automotive
Install the 125-500 check ball kit to ensure you don't blow out the new PowerValve.
Amazon.com: Holley 125-500 Power Valve Check Ball Kit: Automotive

A single stage valve is +/- $15 as opposed to $30 or so for a two stage.
You can use a single stage PowerValve if you like, try something around 6.5"hg.
You will lose a little economy and the transition will be more abrupt.
There is a wide selection of PowerValves(Correction, 24 out of 41 items), again on Holley's Amazon store; Amazon.com: Holley: Automotive

The jetting specs can be found across the top of pgs. 15 & 16 of this pdf from the Holley website.
http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...%20Listing.pdf

If you do have to swap, you can use your old primary float bowl.
There are details of the internal passage differences on FLEMWORLD
Look under '85' how to's, and then under modifying the 4180 carburetor.

Hope this helps

 

Summit Racing had all the parts I needed. Since others were asking about parts for E6JL 9510 AB carb, it is worth posting the part numbers

Gasket between body and power valve plate 108-55-2
Orings for fuel transfer tube 26-38
The power valve that Summit recommended (125-25) is a single stage that will NOT work in truck applications.

I called Holley and sent them photos. The only way to get the power valve for a E6JL-9510-AB carb, (which is a Holley number LIST 50278-1 1826) is to purchase the complete Holley 3-1346 rebuild kit ($50 and well worth it)

The instructions for the backfire preventer kit are vague. The check valve is installed in the carb base in the smaller hole that lines up with the little brass insert in the upper body that leads to the niche that the power valve lives in.

.

 

Thanks for the part tips, ArdWrknTrk, will check it out.

 

You really ought to install the PowerValve blowout protection check ball.
Or the first time the DS-2 module goes bad (and it will, eventually) you will be pulling the carburetor apart again to replace it.

I suggested Amazon because I don't ever have the same problems with fulfillment that I do with the giant performance catalog company's.


Edit on re-reading your post; 125-25, single stage PowerValve???
http://www.amazon.com/Holley-125-25-...8907568&sr=1-5

 

I added a backfire preventer kit to my summit order -- not about to go through this again.

what is the DS-2 module?

 

DuraSpark II is the ignition module, an aluminum box about 1 1/2" thick and 5" square with a blue plastic grommet where the two wire connectors enter.
One goes to the coil with an orange, purple & black (I believe) and the other goes to the main engine bay harness and has a red & a white wire.

In my almost 400k miles of experience with MY truck, when these go bad (70-80k Miles) they ALWAYS throw a mis-timed spark right as they **** the bed.
A bad backfire through an open intake valve WILL blow out an unprotected Power Valve without question.

 

What do you mean by "bad spark"? Timing? Missing?

I'm getting plenty of spark, cranked engine with the cable unplugged and got sparks about 4" long all the way to a pulley mount.

I'm pretty sure that backfiring was due to gas being dumped in by bad power valve and leak in transfer tube. Secondly, the secondary was not opening causing everything to be very rich. when I took the carb off the inside of the intake was soaking in gas.

 

Bad spark.. as in the DS-II box craps out and randomly fires the coil when it dies.
The spark happens to at least one cylinder while it's intake valve is open and the pressure wave destroys the power valve.

A blown power valve will cause the truck to run incredibly rich and it will then pop and backfire, on trailing throttle especially.
You likely have an automatic so the effect may not be as dramatic as my standard gearbox.

I will edit my post above for clarity

 

Well, guess I better replace the duraspark! No sense playing with fire. Thanks for the hot tip.

 

Prophylactic replacement is not the answer.
They all will eventually go bad, but the factory ones have a good reputation for longevity.

The aftermarket is flooded with cheap Chinese copies that have a terrible reputation.
I always keep a spare Ford one (from the junkyard) that tested good under my seat.

That way you can get right back on the road when it finally does fail.

 

Everything back together. I'm getting close to 10mpg in the city. Its almost a "Eureka moment".

I only have one problem: the secondary plates never open and I have no pulling power going up hills. I benched the carb again, rechecked. Everything looks good. The vacuum port from the primary intake to the secondary plate vacuum operator is clear. The vacuum operator pulls in easily when I suck on the port.

I don't see any way for the secondary throttle plates to open. Any ideas?

 

Does the diaphragm you installed have the correct length arm?

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

I always lightly lube with Vaseline so the screws won't pinch or twist the rubber diaphragm.

Is the vacuum check ball properly installed and free to move?

The throttle linkage slot should hold the secondaries closed until the primaries are nearly wide open.

The spring pushing on the top of the diaphragm controls opening by holding it closed, a lighter spring allows earlier opening. (more easily overcome)
What color spring do you have in there now?

It seems you know all this but I feel I should ask.

 

If you don't think the secondaries are opening you can always temporarily put a small nut and bolt in the linkage slot to force them open.

if the engine still doesn't respond it is not the secondaries at fault.

 

I didn't know there were different length arms. The kit I got is for this exact carb E6JL-9510-AB, Holley number LIST 50278-1 1826), so I would think it is the correct arm.

This carb was rebuilt by an auto shop who missed some things. I don't have the original arm so I cant tell what length was there originally. I'm guessing it is the right length because when it is fully extended the flappers are closed. If it were shorter, the diaphragm would be overextended by the gas pedal linkage forcing them closed when the pedal is fully retracted.

I did note that fuel is being injected into the secondaries when going up hills (I drove it around with the air cleaner off and an LED headlamp pointed down the secondary hole. (Would having the air cleaner removed mess it up?)

Note: I have 16 vacuum at the main tapoff at 650 rpm idle.

What I see:

1. The actuator is rebuilt twice now. the check ball in the body was stuck when I inspected it. I cleaned it out the ball moves up and down freely.

2. I think it is a red spring in the actuator (from memory). It is the original spring and is in good shape so it should be good. (If the spring were weak, it would allow the secondaries to open too early)

3. The spring keeps the arm extended, but when I suck on the actuator input port the arm retracts nicely (which would open the flappers).

4. When I tested (above), I put a twist-tie on the actuator arm so I could see if it had actuated (it would slide down the arm). I replace the air cleaner and all, and went up a big hill pedal to the metal and the twist-tie had not moved.

5. The main body vacuum passageway that goes from the actuator to the underside of the right front primary intake ring is clear (tested with low pressure compressed air). I can both blow and suck air through this passageway (no stuck check valves hiding in there).

6. I ran the engine with the secondary actuator removed. I am not seeing ANY vacuum or pressure at the main body port where the actuator connects when revving the engine big time (I have a dual guage that measures both pressure and vacuum). I'm not sure why this is because the hole at the other end is on the underside of the venturi ring. I would think that sucks with more pedal down.

This is the last problem out of about 6 brain twisters on this engine I have fixed that the auto shop missed. I'll get it, of that I am certain. If you can't think of anything else I'll call Holley on Tuesday.

 

I keep forgetting this is in a motorhome where you could pull the dog house and have a view of the engine.
Yes, not having the air cleaner in place will affect operation (somewhat).
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...199R8219-2.pdf


2) I didn't know there was a red spring available, there is purple though. (this one seems a little light for my 6700# truck and the way I drive, so I'm pretty sure it's too light for your motorhome.)

4) If you tried full load with the air cleaner installed and the secondaries didn't open there's still a problem, somewhere.

6) I don't think there should be enough signal to open the secondaries unless the engine is under load no matter how high you rev it. (see the pdf I linked)

Beside putting a screw in the throttle linkage to force the secondaries open another interesting experiment might be to try the twist tie as in #4 with the e-clip removed and the arm disconnected from the secondary shaft.
Then you could tell if vacuum was trying to actuate the secondaries but there is some binding or something else preventing them from opening.

Using the wrong base gasket can keep them from opening fully with the carb bolted up and show no signs on the bench.
But if you have tried holding the primary throttle wide open and working the secondaries (with the engine off) as Dave Franklin already suggested you would notice this right away.

Last time I checked using the gauge on my MityVac I had 20"+hg at 800rpm in neutral as called for by my sticker. I don't know if that is because my cam is advanced or the engine was fresh, or what...