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Removing EGR and smog pump on 1979 F250 4x4

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Old 05-14-2011, 09:49 PM
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Removing EGR and smog pump on 1979 F250 4x4

So I did a "mod" today that really makes the truck run good (working with 79 F250 4x4 super cab auto 400v8). Wanted to check if I may "hurt" anything or other suggestions to go further....

I disconnected and plugged all vacuum lines associated with the EGR system but left them laying in place (used plugs from kragen) Then I removed the belt from the smog pump. I then topped the carb with a nice 14" eddlebrock air cleaner. WOW SHE RUNS! I figure the carb and the temp sensor can't let the diverter valve know to turn on and such so I'm better off?? That was my philosophy. It idles so smooth and takes off from a red light.

So, opinions?
 
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:19 PM
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I hate to rain on your parade, but here are the facts:

If removing the EGR setup made your truck run better, then there was something wrong to begin with. You didn't go from an EGR setup to a non-EGR setup; you went from a non-functioning EGR setup with a stuck/clogged EGR valve and/or vacuum leak to a non-functioning EGR setup. I mean no disrespect when I say this, but threads like this are what encourage people to do away with smog equipment when they don't have all the information. Let me make it clear to all who read this: if removing your EGR setup on an otherwise completely stock engine yields an improvement in driveability, then something else was wrong to begin with. Getting rid of the EGR system, in this case, is an example of "throwing the baby out with the bathwater."

The answer is, yes, removing EGR from an engine originally designed to run with EGR is bad for said engine. Engines designed to run with an EGR system use a leaner combustion mixture and steeper timing curve than their non-EGR counterparts. The risk you run is heightened combustion chamber temperatures. The top two problems that come out of this are spark knock (also called EGR ping) during light acceleration, and dieseling (run-on after shutoff).

To cover your tracks when removing the EGR system, you need to see how it does. I would listen for pinging, and check your plugs over time. If your plugs look good, and you never have any pinging, then you're good to go (this does happen). If you do have issues with these, or dieseling, then you'll need to look at an adjustable vacuum advance and richer jets for the carburetor.

The diverter valve and temperature switch in your original air cleaner were to prevent the carbruetor from icing up on cold yet humid days. They are unrelated to the EGR valve or smog pump.

I know of no issues with removing the smog pump.
 
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:09 PM
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so let me be sure:

1. hooking up the vacuum lines for egr system = good?

2. Leaving belt off smog pump = no change in how motor performs?
 
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:14 PM
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That's correct. As far as the EGR system goes, however, the EGR valve and PVS (ported vacuum switch) are just as important. Both of these items wear out over time, and can cause problems when they go bad. Either one sticking open can introduce inert exhaust into the combustion mixture at undesired times, such as at idle, or while the engine is warming up. This leads to driveability issues, or even stalling.
 
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by fishindave11
So I did a "mod" today that really makes the truck run good (working with 79 F250 4x4 super cab auto 400v8). Wanted to check if I may "hurt" anything or other suggestions to go further....

I disconnected and plugged all vacuum lines associated with the EGR system but left them laying in place (used plugs from kragen) Then I removed the belt from the smog pump. I then topped the carb with a nice 14" eddlebrock air cleaner. WOW SHE RUNS! I figure the carb and the temp sensor can't let the diverter valve know to turn on and such so I'm better off?? That was my philosophy.
You live in CA so...you cannot remove any of these parts, because if you do, your truck will not pass the required CA smog test!

CA smog tests all 1976 and newer vehicles (excepting some diesels). Everything emissions related that was factory installed must be on the vehicle and in working order.

I hope you saved the original air cleaner, because you are going to need it. The fresh air and hot air tubes connect to it, as does the hose from the charcoal cannister, part of the Evaporative Emission System.

Does the Edelbrock air cleaner have any of these connections? Prolly not. When your truck fails to pass a smog test, you'll be jumping around like the frogs of Calaveras County lookin' for parts.

If a vehicle cannot pass a CA smog test, it cannot be registered, it's as simple as that. There is no waiver if the parts are obsolete. It's fix it...or park it.

Every so often, an unknowing FTE member from CA buys a vehicle that has had the emission parts removed. One poor soul bought a minty low mile 1979 F150 that everything was removed from...including the cat converter.

I spent hours trying to find all the parts NOS, called around locally looking for used parts. Was unable to find all of them, so the poor soul was up the proverbial creek without a paddle.
 
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:39 PM
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first off...I do not have to smog my truck every 2 years in ca because of the county I live in.

second, I simplify have to put a new belt on the smog pump and reconnect the vacuum lines to the egr system which I left in place on the manifold to know the route later.

I think at this point I'm going to do a 460 swap...the guy down the street has a 460from a 69 lincoln. Then if I ever have to sell or smog I will put the old motor back and deal with it.
 
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